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Thread: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

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    Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Just got my pool setup the other day, had the water tested at a local pool store because I didn't pay attention to the shipping for my TF100 test kit. I figured it was better than nothing and their results seemed pretty spot on to what my TF100 kit gave me.
    Anyway, here are my results:


    FC: 0.5
    CC: 0.5
    PH: 7.9
    TA: 130
    CH: 120
    CYA: 0
    Salt: 2150 (I knew I needed to add more salt, I initially added 80lbs and didn't want to go over so I left it until I could actually get this number tested).

    I have gone over the recommended levels with the SWG and plugged in my levels in the calculator, I can read what I need to add but basically I am confused on what order I need to add things.
    I see some chems reduce one thing while increasing another so I don't want to throw something out of whack by going in a wrong order. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it!
    Pool specs are in my signature.
    16' x 48" Intex Ultra Frame AGP (5,061gal)
    Intex 1500gph pump/cartridge filter/SWG
    TF100 Test Kit/Aquachek Salt Strips

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Quote Originally Posted by domoMKIV
    Just got my pool setup the other day, had the water tested at a local pool store because I didn't pay attention to the shipping for my TF100 test kit. I figured it was better than nothing and their results seemed pretty spot on to what my TF100 kit gave me.
    Anyway, here are my results:


    FC: 0.5
    CC: 0.5
    PH: 7.9
    TA: 130
    CH: 120
    CYA: 0
    Salt: 2150 (I knew I needed to add more salt, I initially added 80lbs and didn't want to go over so I left it until I could actually get this number tested).

    I have gone over the recommended levels with the SWG and plugged in my levels in the calculator, I can read what I need to add but basically I am confused on what order I need to add things.
    I see some chems reduce one thing while increasing another so I don't want to throw something out of whack by going in a wrong order. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it!
    Pool specs are in my signature.
    You're off to a great start. Posting test results really gets you going quickly towards where you need to be. I would suggest this order....

    1. Bring your pH down (7.2 - 7.5) with muriatic

    2. Bring your CYA up. Shoot for 50-60 and then adjust if you need to.

    3. Put a small jug of clorox in your pool to give you some protection while your SWG is cranking up. Continue to do this each evening until your SWG is producing chlorine on it's own.

    4. Get your salt up where the man. suggests it to be.

    All these adjustments can be done within 30 minutes of each other. Simply give them a little time to circulate so the chems don't co-mingle. Test again 24 hours after you add to see the results. Don't test the CYA as it will not register yet but assume it's in there.

    5. Go swimming ...Your off to a great start. You can fine tune your pool after you see the results of your inital dosages. Post the results back up and you'll get lots of great help.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Welcome to TFP!!

    I would address the cl, cya and salt first. You won't be able to hold cl in the pool until you get the cya in there so stock up on bleach and add the cya (while the cya is still being absorbed into the water, you'll want to use bleach to supplement the SWCG's output.) Use the calculator to find out how much cya you'll need to get to ~50ppm and give it a week to absorb before retesting and adding more. During that time add the appropriate amount of bleach 2X daily (morning and after sunset) to maintain the fc.

    After you've got that started, use the calc to find out how much muriatic acid you'll need to bring the pH down to ~ 7.5. This can be done ~ 1 hour after adding the cl, salt and cya with the pool circulating.

    Once the cya is established, use the FC vs. CYA chart (in my sig) to maintain the proper fc level.

    As long as the water is clear now, this shouldn't be difficult to do and won't require an 'ungodly' amount of bleach

    If you have any questions about how to add the chems, the answers can be found by searching ... or you can simply ask us

    Dave answered whilst I was so I changed a little of what I said to better match his answer (I'd overlooked the SWCG )
    Luv& Luk
    -Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Awesome guys, thanks for the quick replies.
    Salt addition is in. CYA is enjoying life in a sock.
    Acid will be put in the pool in 30 minutes.


    Generally, how long does CYA take to dissolve? I couldn't put the sock in the skimmer basket because I have the SUPER AMAZING intex in-pool basket and it isn't really big enough for the sock so I just hung it from the skimmer so at least it is right next to it.
    16' x 48" Intex Ultra Frame AGP (5,061gal)
    Intex 1500gph pump/cartridge filter/SWG
    TF100 Test Kit/Aquachek Salt Strips

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Generally, how long does CYA take to dissolve?
    It can take up to a week to register completely on the CYA test. What we recommend is that you simply assume the dose you calculated is in there within 24 hours of putting it in. That'll help you calculate your FC dosages.

    I would test the CYA in 3-4 days. Most of the time, it will show up by then.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Should I leave the pump on 24/7 until I get everything balanced out?


    Also, what would be a recommended pump/filter setup for this pool? I don't mind getting something 2spd so I could run it 24/7 if the low setting was low enough and then turn it up for vac/cleaning duty. I had looked at a couple 1hp 2spd pumps but I wasn't sure on anything, more price browsing than anything else at the time. Of course, this was an inexpensive pool so I don't want to spend TOO much but I do hope to be keeping this for at least 2 years so I don't mind spending $400'ish on a better than what I have now setup that could possibly be reused later on down the road for something else.
    The current pump is pretty noisy while the filter element is the size of a peanut. Judging by other Intex pump comments, it could go at any time so I would like to have 1 or 2 other pump/filter setups picked out so that I could quickly order them should the need arise.
    16' x 48" Intex Ultra Frame AGP (5,061gal)
    Intex 1500gph pump/cartridge filter/SWG
    TF100 Test Kit/Aquachek Salt Strips

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Unless you are trying to clear algae, you shouldn't need to run the pump 24/7.

    Keep in mind, once your water is balanced, you shouldn't need to run the SWG very much to maintain the proper FC level - probably 4 hours a day or less is all your SWG will need for your size pool. The filter though, that I'd say run it at least 12 hours a day, if not more (the Intex filters aren't very good). You can just cut back, hour by hour, day by day till you find the run time that works for you, keeping an eye on clarity, etc... So start at 14-16 hours, then cut back. I'd hazard a guess that 12 hours would be around what you'll need.

    Remember, the Intex filter/pumps should not be on when swimmers are in the pool, from an electrical safety standpoint.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Quote Originally Posted by frustratedpoolmom
    Unless you are trying to clear algae, you shouldn't need to run the pump 24/7.

    Keep in mind, once your water is balanced, you shouldn't need to run the SWG very much to maintain the proper FC level - probably 4 hours a day or less is all your SWG will need for your size pool. The filter though, that I'd say run it at least 12 hours a day, if not more (the Intex filters aren't very good). You can just cut back, hour by hour, day by day till you find the run time that works for you, keeping an eye on clarity, etc... So start at 14-16 hours, then cut back. I'd hazard a guess that 12 hours would be around what you'll need.

    Remember, the Intex filter/pumps should not be on when swimmers are in the pool, from an electrical safety standpoint.
    Sounds good. I have the SWG setup for 4hrs but I turned it off to add more salt.
    Is it best to be running the pump during the day or in the evening or is it a negligible difference?
    Yeah I read that about having it off with people in the pool, installing that GFCI outlet was a horrible experience


    *I edited my above post with a few more Q's.
    16' x 48" Intex Ultra Frame AGP (5,061gal)
    Intex 1500gph pump/cartridge filter/SWG
    TF100 Test Kit/Aquachek Salt Strips

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Quote Originally Posted by domoMKIV
    Is it best to be running the pump during the day or in the evening
    Yes.

    There is some feeling that letting the pool sit "too long" without circulation is not ideal. So, if you mostly run it at night, maybe also have a 1-2 hour turn during the day. Or vice versa. (And one of these days I'll remember I need another pair of timer thingies when I'm actually inside the HD.)
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Just tested for the below again. Since nothing was brought up about the other test results (except for the ones below) I did not test them this time around. If I should, just say so and I will go do it.
    Time to go add some bleach? SWG has been on for about 1.5hrs now.

    FC: 2
    CC: 0
    PH: 7.5
    Salt: 3020



    edit: IMO, the water looks magical right now. It's a shame that we have rain coming in later in the day and I am going to have to toss the cover on.
    16' x 48" Intex Ultra Frame AGP (5,061gal)
    Intex 1500gph pump/cartridge filter/SWG
    TF100 Test Kit/Aquachek Salt Strips

  11. Back To Top    #11

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    The SWG will tend to put upward pressure on pH, as will the high TA (you reported 130 earlier). You might think about bring the TA down to 80 or so. Otherwise the other numbers looked okay.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

  12. Back To Top    #12

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Just tested again for the night:

    FC: 4.5
    CC: 0
    PH: 7.5
    TA: 120
    Salt: 3020

    What should I do to get the TA down to 80 and keep the other numbers from going nutty?

    Is the pool ok to swim in? I'd like to jump in there tomorrow morning right after my daughter gets on the bus for her first day of middle school to celebrate her return to school
    16' x 48" Intex Ultra Frame AGP (5,061gal)
    Intex 1500gph pump/cartridge filter/SWG
    TF100 Test Kit/Aquachek Salt Strips

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    What should I do to get the TA down to 80 and keep the other numbers from going nutty?
    There is a somewhat lengthy process described in Pool School to lower TA.

    Before you start that process, the TA may not be a problem where it is. It may contribute to a rise in pH which you find annoying (bring it back down with muriatic) but, until it does, I think I would leave it alone.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Yes, I should have said it depends on whether your pH climbs faster than you like or is hard to keep under control. If the pH is reasonably stable then TA is fine where it is.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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    Re: Another new guy with a TF100 and some Q's

    Woke up today and the pH was at 7.4, everything else was roughly the same as last night so after our daughter went to school this morning, wife, son and myself hopped in for about an hour and aerated the heck out of the pool
    Water felt great, no irritation on the eyes or skin for any of us. Now I need to landscape around the pool and thorougly enjoy it.

    Thank you everyone for helping me along the way with directions, this is a great forum! Probably the only one I have been on where people don't eat newbies alive
    16' x 48" Intex Ultra Frame AGP (5,061gal)
    Intex 1500gph pump/cartridge filter/SWG
    TF100 Test Kit/Aquachek Salt Strips

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