Heater not controlled by Jandy Aqualink...

[taekwondodo]

So,

My friend's heater's been worked on a lot over the years, and he tells me it's been controlled by his Jandy Aqualink. It's a Laars LX - which the manual clearly says it can't be controlled by the Aqualink. I looked at the heater tonight, and there's a control wire coming out of it connector - wired to a terminal block. Reading the installation manual, it says that these should hook up to a low-voltage heater control (from a manual time-clock).

Well, the Aqualink control board has a "low voltage heater" control on it.

Will this control the on-off of the heater?

Thanks,

- Jeff

 

[Pool Clown]

Is that connection labeled for a fireman's switch by any chance? Raypak, another heater manufacture, would have two connections. One for the automation, and one for a fireman's switch (for time clocks). The fireman's switch would cut off the heater once it was opened, but would not close again till the power went off, then came back on. So the complaint would be the heater brought the pool up to temp, then it wouldn't come back on to hold the temp (at set point) till the next morning (when the pump came back on). And this was the heater working properly, just hooked up to the wrong terminal.

 

[jkalan]

The Jandy equipment (Aqualink) uses the Fireman's Switch to disable the heater when heating is not needed.

Notice that while the pump is running and the heater is off that the "Pressure Switch" LED on the heater is lit. The first time I saw this I thought there was a problem. Nope. That's just how the system is wired.

 

[taekwondodo]

Well, I think its hooked up that way - but I didn't have the circuit diagram with me yesterday - this is on fig 10/11 of the manual (says it goes to the limit switches, but if I look at fig 8 - it indeed shows the circuit/terminal block on the low pressure switch).

I'll look at it this afternoon (this time, with the manual) and let you know - thanks for the help!

- Jeff

 

[taekwondodo]

That was it...

I'm so amazed at the "work" the last guy did on my friend's heater - he had the limit switches switched around 135 in 150 spot and vice-versa), and set the heater up so that whenever the pool pump came on, so did the heater (regardless of temp, or spa/pool mode). The limit switches burned out - likely because the heater never had a cool-down (it would just turn off with the pump), and he had the fireman's switch all wired screwy:

Two terminal bar:
Bar 1 Pressure-circuit = pressure circuit (this completed the circuit for the pressure circuit)
Bar 2 LV control wire to Jandy = wire to jandy, not connected to anything inside the Aqualink controller - just hanging there!

Correct config
Bar 1 Pressure-circuit = LV switch wire to Jandy (Red)
Bar 2 Pressure-circuit = LV switch wire to Jandy (Black).

Geeeze...

Thanks for the help.

- Jeff