Leslie's a good source?

Husky:

Unfortunately a lot of people can not be bother with anything else than just walking in and purchasing based on "Advice". Sometimes, in a bind I have to stop in and purchase something, but it is very rare (Maybe once a year). A store front on a highway with overhead will have to charge more. And think about only if they sold the basics (Bleach, Baking Soda, Borax, Salt, Muriatic Acid) and some incidentals. The company would last 12 months. IMO, Leslie's is a 'last resort" type of stop.
Certainly, but you'd think their hardware prices would be more in line with market. How can a mom & pop shop charge half of a corporation that presumably has economies of scale?

The last thing I purchased (and kept) from Leslie's was filter sand after I converted the pool at my old house from Baquacil.

I guess the point I'm trying to make is if one is to rely on a pool service, there are probably sources providing better value for one's dollar.
 
Hello All,
Finally got time to respond.
I appreciate all your input, (even the sarcastic ones, I deserve it).
There is no trickery here. I did buy a fas-dpd chlorine test kit. I always had trouble with too high of cyanuric acid levels (about 2,800 by now), and you told me long time ago to drain the pool and refill.
Stingy as I am I thought I could squeeze by by dropping by a third or so and use non-stabilized chlorine, (which is when I went to go to Walmart to get straight Bleach).
Now this product dropped chlorine content to 6% which makes me wonder what the other 94% are.
As of today my chlorine reading is at 1 and my ph at 7.8. (That's because I shocked it yesterday with 2lbs of sodium dichloro bla bla, (stuff I bought from Sam's club).
Yellow algae comes back overnight.

Regardless, I am draining the pool completely over the memorial day weekend and start over.
Once I have drained it:
1) what should I use to wash the walls with?
2) what initial "chemicals" should I introduce to create the basis for a TFP?
3) how to maintain my pool so that I'm proud again to have pool parties?

I really need your help and would very much appreciate your input.
Thank you,
Thomas
 
The key to a clear pool is understanding the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] along with the test kit which it sounds like you already have. If you know your cya is very high, what is it?, and if you understand the chart I linked to you know that your FC is entirely too low.
 
In your post #22 you said your CYA was 2,800! Now, I knew there was a typo there - so 250-300 is what you are measuring with your test kit?

Can you add a signature? Will really help us if you ask for more guidance - see Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

Sounds like you need to drain. No need to wash the walls. The SLAM Process process you will do after refill will take care of it.

You need to have liquid chlorine (start with 10 gallons. If your pool is bigger than 15K gallons, make that 15 gallons). Also muriatic acid and CYA powder. Plan to eventually add 50 ppm of CYA.

Good luck.
 
Leslies did a test just recently that measured:

FAC 0
TAC 0
CH 300
CYA 270
TA 90
pH 8.0
Acid 2
TDS 2400
Pho 500

Should I buy the liq chlorine from Home Depot (11%) or Bleach from Walmart (6.25%)? Do you have a brand preference on CYA powder as well?

Thank you,
Thomas
 
We do not trust pool store tests enough to provide guidance based on them. Please report your own tests. You do need a FAS-DPD test to manage your pool water chemistry.

The liquid chlorine you purchase is based on obtaining the cheapest chlorine available. The PoolMath App has a Bleach Price calculator in it.

No preference on CYA powder. I buy the stuff at Walmart or Home Depot. Should be nearly pure Cyanuric Acid.

- - - Updated - - -

When you buy liquid chlorine be sure it is fresh. The bottle or box should have a number that is 18XXX. The XXX is the number of days in 2018 that the bottle was filled. Should be greater than 18100 right now.
 

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2 weeks? Well, I guess you are just in a holding pattern for 2 weeks then ....

Do you have the DPD test in your signature? That will test for everything besides the good chlorine test.
 
Hello Jason,

The test kit has shipped and is on its way from Michigan. We have started filling the pool last night and it's about 1/2 full right now.
Should I wait until I can run the filter system to do testing and add chemicals or is it wise to put in some CYA and chlorine during the filling process.
(not sure if this messes with the later testing).
Thank you
 
Hello Jason,

The test kit has shipped and is on its way from Michigan. We have started filling the pool last night and it's about 1/2 full right now.
Should I wait until I can run the filter system to do testing and add chemicals or is it wise to put in some CYA and chlorine during the filling process.
(not sure if this messes with the later testing).
Thank you


Wait until you can run the pump for at least 15 minutes before you draw a sample to test. You always want to make sure the water is well mixed first.
 
Ok, Just tested for first time after refilling (circulated including waterfall for 20 min. and added NO chemicals yet).

FA 0
TAC 0.5
ph 8
TA 120
CH 250
CYA 0 (test tube wasn't tall enough to measure less than 25).

This was done with a Leslie's deluxe DPD test kit. (I will have the K2006 within a week, I promise).

How much CYA and chlorine should I add now? Do I SLAM?
 
Add 30 ppm of CYA to start if you completely drained and refilled.

Add chlorine to get to 3 ppm FC.

You cannot SLAM with that test kit. It only reads FC to 5 or it might be 10?

Good luck.
 
Hello Marty,
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
I plugged my test results in the pool calculator and am ready to start.
The test kit reads FC to 5 as you guessed

- - - Updated - - -

Can I pour the cya (powder), straight into the pool or should I still do the sock trick?
 
Add the CYA using the sock. Pouring it in the pool most likely will stain your pool plaster. You can hang the sock in front of a return or place it in your skimmer if you are running your pump 24/7.
 

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