Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    North Central Texas
    Posts
    1,358

    Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Howdy from Texas. My first post. I have a not too large area of staining in the deep end of my pool. I suspect it is organic as it was there after spring opening. I live in woods and was unable to get all of the leaves out in December due to torn rotator tendon after bad fall while acid washing my pool in September. Not a job for sissies, BTW..

    Question: I don't have scuba equipment any more so what do you guys (gals) suggest I use to hold/rub a puck to address the stain at 9 ft depth?

    I've been lurking for months and just now joined. Will get my pool stats in sig when have more time.

    This is a fabulous forum that I've recommended to friends.

    geekgranny
    1981, 25K, IG, Blue Plaster 1996, somewhat oval, widens a bit at shallow end, 1.5" pipes, 2" at Pad, 1 separate main drain, 1 skimmer, 4 returns + dedicated cleaner return, 10 ft deep end with very fast decline from shallow, Pentair Quad 80 DE, Pentair Intelliflo VF, 3/4 HP Booster Pump (equipment pad about 8 ft below top of pool), Challanger 3/4 Trash/Emergency Pump 120v, Polaris 280 (pressure), iRobot Verro cleaner (robotic), Aquabot Turbo (robotic), Jacuzzi Tracker 4X (vacuum) Pool Blaster (Buster), Two (2) PoolSkims, Solar Breeze (solar powered top skimmer) (beta to ver. 2, release date 2010), ColorSplash LED replacement bulb. Aries 550 gal separate spa, 2002 (our 3rd and BEST spa) , BBB-Bromine

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    SW Indiana
    Posts
    8,617

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Welcome to TFP.

    Shutting the pump off and laying it on the stain would be my first try.

    I'd think an organic stain would have faded by now though.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    North Central Texas
    Posts
    1,358

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnT
    Welcome to TFP.

    Shutting the pump off and laying it on the stain would be my first try.

    I'd think an organic stain would have faded by now though.
    Long but can serve as my "kind-of" introduction.

    Thanks. I can't lay it on the stain because it is on the side wall, deep, diving end, that curves from wall to bottom. That's why I'm looking for something to attach the puck to to get it down there and held for a few minutes.

    As to whether it is organic or not you might be right but I do want to at least test.

    I'm in searingly hot Texas and one of the few people I know who doesn't have any algae problems or need to do anything extra to keep a state of "no algae". That is except when the pool is left sitting over winter with a foot of leaves and other ****. That's another story; our 07-08 frog pond and reason for last years (Sept 08) acid wash.

    I'm a hold over to using ionization, which I've been using since the Nature 2 came out (moved here 23 years ago pool about 5 yrs old at the time) but I switched to Floatron two summers ago. I do all maintenance and most repairs myself. Had pool re plastered in 96. We started with Chlorine feeder which was already installed and no Polaris (but installed working booster pump). Couldn't use the first Polaris because the acorns from oaks were too large for opening. As soon as the, I think 280, came out we purchased one and we've never considered anything else. Of course I've replaced a few because my GIANT dogs do like to "rescue" Polaris and then "kill" it. Second summer here one of my show/working dogs (family pets 1st and foremost) (Mastiffs and Rotties), and rated nationally in top 10 of his breed, tore a cruciate ligament. Swimming was his rehab. And boy was he then hooked on swimming. His son, Mastiff, did water rescue. That lead to most others becoming "water dogs". Over a not too lengthy period their coats started bleaching out so we switched to bromine which helped considerably with the coat bleaching. BTW.... Bromine, using feeder, initially cost more for purchase, but ended up costing less as it lasted longer than chlorine.

    Keeping numbers in line was not a "nightmare" by any means but required more time/energy than I had as I was on the road 3-4 days a week about half the year with the dogs, no one else at home had any interest in helping me with the pool, AND there were no wonderful sources for information, as we now have, like this great forum. Yellow algae was to be expected every summer and fall. Stores do tons of business around these parts for algaecides, almost year round.

    When I switched to Nature 2, commercial size canister, no puck float, and once or twice a week chlorine shock, water numbers leveled out, no algae (with exceptions like above) and no need for constant monitoring or adjusting of anything. AND the fawn (blond) colored dogs swimming daily, some napping on steps in water, had no greening of coats. I'm natural light blond and I've never had any greening. We didn't ever get any metal stains on surfaces either. Our city tap water is moderately hard but in past 7 years or so the calcium content has lessened. Back then kept pool open year round for dogs, pump running virtually 24/7 with sweep, then Polaris running 12+ hours a day. I'll have to add here that running the pump/filter seemed to be needed to keep water clean, clear and algae free. I lost a few Nature 2 canisters due to freezing.

    Did I mention that besides the dogs we live in heavy woods, with EXTREME sand and silt, frequent high winds, with dogs not only stirring it up as they play/exercise in yard but dragging it into the pool on entry. No cover.

    I tried the Nature 2 express for one summer but it was not up to doing what the larger commercial cartridge could do and I did have to fight algae that summer.

    So now, for my third summer, I have been using the Floatron, with floater with chlorine pucks, and addition of liquid bleach every other, or sometimes every night after the new "swim team" (two 10 mo old Labradoodles and 7 mo old Mastiff) has finished their daily, 2 hour, pool play session. The main job is clearing out the sand and much silt nightly. Polaris, with silt bags, a couple of changes a night with fresh silt bag before going to bed, and Pool Blaster for shallow end, with pump and Polaris running all night pretty much gets surfaces and water sparkling.

    The staining that I mentioned did not appear the rest of last year after acid washing, using the Floatron. In late Nov when main amount of leaves came off trees, and what seems like most ending in pool I wasn't up physically to putting the leaf netting on and concrete barriers around pool. So I just basically closed the pool, drained a equipment, which is 9ft below top of pool, and set about going to therapy 3 times a week for shoulder. Floatron was not left in pool.

    Spring 09, early April, I dragged all the leaves/debris out of pool, several major shockings, brushings, vacuumings, and that's when I noticed the black staining on wall at deep end of pool. Scrubbing with ss brush does nothing, neither does the little gritty scrubber that does remove the stains from the "fake" pears that fall off of the Aristocrat Bradford Pear Tree.

    Every since I've used the Floatron the test kit for ions shows very little amounts of ions. I do backwash 3-4 times a month and have to add water every other day due to evaporation.

    I suppose over the winter there could have been staining from the left over ions from Floatron maybe reacting with other things. I can't remember now but there were probably some small metal things in the pool over the winter that I pulled out with all the other gunk this spring.

    Spending lots of time on this forum has put some questions in my mind about continuing the use of Floatron but, gosh, things have been great for years. I do have chlorine sensitivity and absolutely cannot use it in separate spa without rashes. For Spa we use ozonator, nature 2 stick, and non chlorine shock and enzymes. I let puppies in spa a few times but won't do it again. As is I change the filter out, have several, every 3-5 days. I took a picture of a new, clean filter, the day after the doggies got in spa for first time. Incredibly dirty and hairy. Impressed me enough to take a picture.

    So I guess my main question is how do I go about removing the staining if it is not organic? I don't keep enough chlorine levels in pool except for a few hours after near nightly addition of liquid chlorine (laundry type, non scented).

    Pool is inground, plaster, 30K-35K with 1.5 HP pump, 36 sq ft DE filter, running 15-20 hours daily. Backwash almost weekly.

    The staining is not bad enough that I would want to totally clear out the ions. I've used ionization for about 10 years and never had staining like this. Is there any way to get rid of it without upsetting my current sanitation regime?

    PH - 7.5 (pretty much constant)
    TA - 60 (maybe a little low?)
    TH - 240
    CA (approx) 180 (maybe a little low?)
    CYA - 0
    Chlorine - NA

    Thanks, geekgranny
    1981, 25K, IG, Blue Plaster 1996, somewhat oval, widens a bit at shallow end, 1.5" pipes, 2" at Pad, 1 separate main drain, 1 skimmer, 4 returns + dedicated cleaner return, 10 ft deep end with very fast decline from shallow, Pentair Quad 80 DE, Pentair Intelliflo VF, 3/4 HP Booster Pump (equipment pad about 8 ft below top of pool), Challanger 3/4 Trash/Emergency Pump 120v, Polaris 280 (pressure), iRobot Verro cleaner (robotic), Aquabot Turbo (robotic), Jacuzzi Tracker 4X (vacuum) Pool Blaster (Buster), Two (2) PoolSkims, Solar Breeze (solar powered top skimmer) (beta to ver. 2, release date 2010), ColorSplash LED replacement bulb. Aries 550 gal separate spa, 2002 (our 3rd and BEST spa) , BBB-Bromine

  4. Back To Top    #4

    In the Industry
    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sebring, Florida
    Posts
    28,392

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Well, advice is gonna' be tough because almost everyone here is a chlorine advocate and chlorine is what gets rid of organic stains.

    About the only other avenue you could pursue is to test for copper and iron to see if your levels are high enough that they could be the cause . Ascorbic acid will remove an iron stain. Copper is pretty much permanent unless you drain and acid wash.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    North Central Texas
    Posts
    1,358

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    Well, advice is gonna' be tough because almost everyone here is a chlorine advocate and chlorine is what gets rid of organic stains.
    I know and I am in process of reconsidering the use of ionization since I've been doing so much studying here. I've really enjoyed, too, not having to worry about things getting bleached out. Our Texas UV is so harsh many things don't stand up to it for long either. One thing that became very obvious, very early on using ionization, is that my filter grids lasted at least two years or more. Using chlorine or bromine, virtually 24/7 high pressure filtering, year round, weekly backwashings, I never could get more than a year out of filter grids. Our filter is under the deck where one has to bend over to do anything at the equipment. Pool guys really hate working down there and always complain about the bending. L'l ole granny me has to empty the filter, disengage it, carry it out from under the deck, up a couple of steps just to get the top off to clean and inspect the grids. with a bad back and torn rotator tendon.

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    About the only other avenue you could pursue is to test for copper and iron to see if your levels are high enough that they could be the cause . Ascorbic acid will remove an iron stain. Copper is pretty much permanent unless you drain and acid wash.
    Acid washing mixed with wine is what got me in trouble last year. I tell people you not only have to be crazy to do it in 90-105 temps but getting tipsy is a good way to blur the "pain". (and make it a little more fun when doing it with a friend - my te-nite-sy, iti-bitty (girl) friend, almost 50 yr old, who drives a bus, of all things. We actually used straight acid in some places to get stains out. This is the thrid time I've acid washed since new plaster in 96 and I don't know if I or the pool can handle it any more.

    Thanks for this valuable info. I've often wondered if my ion test kit is faulty. It came with the Floatron which releases copper and silver, to my understanding. It has always tested at the low end of the scale, for three years now. But I'm well aware, also, that there could have been some other reactions over the winter while the muck was just sitting there.

    Iron.... hummmmm ... I was wondering about that. A few of months ago I did get a filter for filling the spa, that reduces organic contaminants, metals, iron rust, pesticide residues, phosphates, suspended solids, lime scale, spores, chlorine dioxide, but did not have it when I filled the pool last fall. I've used these for watering some special plants in past. I've never had stains like this before but it is not so unbelievable that our water minerals have perhaps changed as it did several years ago when the calcium in water from tap reduced somewhat. Our blown in and dragged in sand and silt into the pool and our soil is very alkaline out here. Our sand is as fine as many people's silt and our silt is as fine as DE. This has been an especially bad year for silt too. Several neighbors further up the hill put in blacktop drives (.25-.75 miles each). We get a lot of runoff from up the road. Wonder if that has further complicated things.

    I'll have to look up some methods to test for different metals. And I'll, also, rig up something to hold some vit C on a spot. ******Which brings me back to original questions about ideas on getting sock or puck down to sidewall at 9 ft. and holding there for a few minutes. I can't hold my breath that long.

    Thanks, geekgranny
    1981, 25K, IG, Blue Plaster 1996, somewhat oval, widens a bit at shallow end, 1.5" pipes, 2" at Pad, 1 separate main drain, 1 skimmer, 4 returns + dedicated cleaner return, 10 ft deep end with very fast decline from shallow, Pentair Quad 80 DE, Pentair Intelliflo VF, 3/4 HP Booster Pump (equipment pad about 8 ft below top of pool), Challanger 3/4 Trash/Emergency Pump 120v, Polaris 280 (pressure), iRobot Verro cleaner (robotic), Aquabot Turbo (robotic), Jacuzzi Tracker 4X (vacuum) Pool Blaster (Buster), Two (2) PoolSkims, Solar Breeze (solar powered top skimmer) (beta to ver. 2, release date 2010), ColorSplash LED replacement bulb. Aries 550 gal separate spa, 2002 (our 3rd and BEST spa) , BBB-Bromine

  6. Back To Top    #6
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SouthWest Alabama
    Posts
    21,774

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Here's one item I ran across the other day that might fill the bill. The good thing about it is that you're not limited to just tablets but can use acid or chlorine.



    Here's one placee that has them. Jandy Stain Master
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    North Central Texas
    Posts
    1,358

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Quote Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
    Here's one item I ran across the other day that might fill the bill. The good thing about it is that you're not limited to just tablets but can use acid or chlorine.
    Here's one placee that has them. Jandy Stain Master
    Thanks much. That might just fill the bill. I'm hoping to get some water to a couple of pool places today to test for minerals.

    I'm going to switch to BBB.

    I'll pick up some CYA builder today, to have on hand when I start BBB, and order forum's recommended test kit and do more studying before starting in a few days, and address the staining at whatever point is recommended in the BBB start up process. I took the Floatron out of pool several days ago. I've already been adding about 1 gal of 6% chlorine (wally world) most nights after "doggie swim team" finishes while and I'm doing the sand/silt clean up on worst part in shallow end using the Pool Blaster.

    Last night with not much time left I tried some vit C and puck on different barely visible spots where I could reach them from pool edge. I was in a hurry (and didn't hold them on spots very long) and don't remember which worked on which but there is some lightening in and around some of the spots.

    I'll get test results on minerals and then address all issues in appropriate section(s) of forum.

    Many, many thanks. geekgranny

    Numbers pretty consistant taken about noontime using wallyworld drop kit (pretty much confirs with leftover test strips, 3 diff. brands):
    PH - 7.5
    TA - 60
    TH - 240
    CH - (approx) 180
    CYA - 0 (currently using ionization)
    Chlorine - 0 (currently using ionization)
    1981, 25K, IG, Blue Plaster 1996, somewhat oval, widens a bit at shallow end, 1.5" pipes, 2" at Pad, 1 separate main drain, 1 skimmer, 4 returns + dedicated cleaner return, 10 ft deep end with very fast decline from shallow, Pentair Quad 80 DE, Pentair Intelliflo VF, 3/4 HP Booster Pump (equipment pad about 8 ft below top of pool), Challanger 3/4 Trash/Emergency Pump 120v, Polaris 280 (pressure), iRobot Verro cleaner (robotic), Aquabot Turbo (robotic), Jacuzzi Tracker 4X (vacuum) Pool Blaster (Buster), Two (2) PoolSkims, Solar Breeze (solar powered top skimmer) (beta to ver. 2, release date 2010), ColorSplash LED replacement bulb. Aries 550 gal separate spa, 2002 (our 3rd and BEST spa) , BBB-Bromine

  8. Back To Top    #8

    In the Industry
    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sebring, Florida
    Posts
    28,392

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    gg,

    When you post up some new numbers, or need additional help, keep it right here in this thread....even tho the subject may change somewhat.

    Responders need to see your whole "story" in one place so they have the background and offer better advice.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    North Central Texas
    Posts
    1,358

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    gg,

    When you post up some new numbers, or need additional help, keep it right here in this thread....even tho the subject may change somewhat.

    Responders need to see your whole "story" in one place so they have the background and offer better advice.
    Thanks, will do. Not able to get off the "ranch" today so maybe Leslie's, about 10 miles from here, can test for minerals tomorrow. In meantime I'll grab a little time to try some spots with vit C or puck.
    geekgranny
    1981, 25K, IG, Blue Plaster 1996, somewhat oval, widens a bit at shallow end, 1.5" pipes, 2" at Pad, 1 separate main drain, 1 skimmer, 4 returns + dedicated cleaner return, 10 ft deep end with very fast decline from shallow, Pentair Quad 80 DE, Pentair Intelliflo VF, 3/4 HP Booster Pump (equipment pad about 8 ft below top of pool), Challanger 3/4 Trash/Emergency Pump 120v, Polaris 280 (pressure), iRobot Verro cleaner (robotic), Aquabot Turbo (robotic), Jacuzzi Tracker 4X (vacuum) Pool Blaster (Buster), Two (2) PoolSkims, Solar Breeze (solar powered top skimmer) (beta to ver. 2, release date 2010), ColorSplash LED replacement bulb. Aries 550 gal separate spa, 2002 (our 3rd and BEST spa) , BBB-Bromine

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    North Central Texas
    Posts
    1,358

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    I'M NOW READY TO START BBB And will GREATLY appreciate guidance.

    Removed Floatron (ionization) about a week ago. Floater with pucks all season but no test have registered readable CYA levels. Small areas of stains appear to be lightning; some respond some to vitC, others to puck, that is those I can reach. Been using liquid chlorine, 6%, nightly all season, between 90-182 oz almost every night. Only algae detected is a little green on tile grouting near water line. Pool water is sparkling and blue but just installed new light bulb last night and can better see the tiny particulates floating in front of light. Can't detect that during day though.

    Sunny and sweltering here as usual but having a cool first week of Sept with temps under 100 F. Forgot to purchase pool thermometer yesterday but I would guess pool in mid 80's F. Pool is shaded in different areas most of day. Late afternoon, around 3:00, all but 1/3 of pool shaded by trees. By 6:00 almost totally shaded by trees.

    Ordered FAS-DPD test today and using, for now, Wallyworld drop kit. Water test at pool place, yesterday, agrees with my testings.

    My testing:
    FC - 0
    CC -
    pH - 7.5
    TA - 60
    TH - 240
    CH - estimated 180
    CYA - 0

    Store test:Phosphates - 200
    left pool and tap water for copper and iron testing - don't have results

    Have on hand from last years acid wash - 5 gals Muratic Acid and three (3) 12 lb bags baking soda (I use it for all kinds of cleaning around the house and occasionally in laundry) I've been using Muratic Acid for years and have no problem using it.

    Have six (6) 182 oz jugs 6% bleach. WallyWorld is only a few miles from here so restocking is not a problem.

    Purchased 5 lbs dry CYA yesterday.

    Backwashing later in afternoon.

    Where do I start please? I assume that I want to get the CYA up and keep adding chlorine and then worry about other issues in a day or few days?

    Advice please such as what to aim for with CYA, how often to add the chlorine, and how much, as I now have no stabilizer registering? I am here virtually 24/7 so multiple additions night and day are no problem for me. When do I start dealing with the high phosphates? When I get copper and iron results we can deal with them then I guess, if needed.

    I've used the calculator but wanted to get some input before I do anything very different from pre BBB. Oh yes, can't use the Borax method as have swimming dogs who DO drink from pool.

    Many, many thanks for input/assistance/help. geekgranny
    1981, 25K, IG, Blue Plaster 1996, somewhat oval, widens a bit at shallow end, 1.5" pipes, 2" at Pad, 1 separate main drain, 1 skimmer, 4 returns + dedicated cleaner return, 10 ft deep end with very fast decline from shallow, Pentair Quad 80 DE, Pentair Intelliflo VF, 3/4 HP Booster Pump (equipment pad about 8 ft below top of pool), Challanger 3/4 Trash/Emergency Pump 120v, Polaris 280 (pressure), iRobot Verro cleaner (robotic), Aquabot Turbo (robotic), Jacuzzi Tracker 4X (vacuum) Pool Blaster (Buster), Two (2) PoolSkims, Solar Breeze (solar powered top skimmer) (beta to ver. 2, release date 2010), ColorSplash LED replacement bulb. Aries 550 gal separate spa, 2002 (our 3rd and BEST spa) , BBB-Bromine

  11. Back To Top    #11
    Butterfly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    10,045

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Hi GG,

    Here's my suggestions:

    1. Add enough bleach to maintain about 2ppm FC

    2. Use Baking Soda to raise TA to about 70

    3. Add enough CYA to reach about 40 (recommended level is 30 to 50)

    4. 24 hrs. after the CYA has dissolved, 'assume' it is there and use the CYA/Chlorine Chart for dosing. Link in my sig & Pool School.
    (Do not test for CYA for about a week after you add.)

    5. After this is done, then increase your CH to between 250 - 350. Do this on a day that you are not adjusting anything else.

    Welcome to the forum
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  12. Back To Top    #12
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    SWSuburban Chicago, IL
    Posts
    11,963

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Joyce gave you the steps to follow- I'll just address your question on Phosphates. Phosphates are algae food, but they are irrelevant in a properly chlorinated pool. So as long as you maintain your FC levels according to the CYA chart - the phosphates are a non-issue.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    North Central Texas
    Posts
    1,358

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Thanks. I've recalulated pool volume down to 28K. Will change value in sig after this post.

    Got started last night about 1800. Backwashed. Didn't swim puppies so little silt in pool. Storm comming in with moderate wind gust. Water sparkling and very blue, pretty clear. Everything done with pump filtering and Polaris with silt sock running. Skimmer sock on.

    Added about 250 oz 6% bleach around pool in front of the four (4) returns. Waited a bit doing other chores and sipping wine while being mesmerized by new LED light show.

    Pool calculator said to add 210 oz by volume Baking Soda. Broadcast 64 oz. Waited to add more. Started loading CYA into two legs of support panty hose. Calculator called for 150 oz by weight stabilizer. Young woman at pool store said this 100% dry stablizer disolves very fast. I had a 5 lb bottle/tub @ 80 oz. Figured I could pick up more next day. Then broadcasted another 64 oz by volume baking soda. Tied two support hose legs to ladder rail(the ss bars attach at deck with steps molded into gunite) then hung them down in front of deep end return not quite directly across from skimmer. I used a heavy rock on deck to postion the legs so that they twisted around and bumped into each other constantly from strong jet of water coming from return. Young woman was right. In about 4 hours the CYA hose were virtually empty. At 2400 broadcast another 64 oz baking soda.

    Did some chores in wonderful gentle rain. About 0130 just had to do a quick test strip test.
    FC - much darker than highest color (10) on strip
    CC -
    pH - 7.5
    TA - darker thank highest color on strip
    TH -
    CH -
    CYA - much darker than the highest color on strip

    YIKES

    This a.m. cloudy and unusually cool. Not quite 80 F by noon. That is almost cold for here this time of year. Didn't break 85 all day. Around noon clouds started thinning but never did get to normal brightness all day. Not much chance of sun doing much burn off all day as by 1500 2/3 of pool in shade anyway.

    Around 1300 did a drop test. Used 1/4 pool water, 3/4 distilled water for FC as strip tests were showing very high FC.

    FC - 12
    CC -
    pH - 7.5
    TA - 130
    TH - 230
    CH - estimated 172
    CYA - 70

    YIKES YIKES

    Water hasn't changed color in any way but lots more tiny floating particulates than uaual. I did brush shallow end but didn't get deep end brushed. Polaris with silt sock running all day.

    Things came up I had to attend to but did a couple of strip testings, 2 different brands, and readings still high.

    Probaby won't be up real early as a late night and delayed game to watch (Go Cowboys) but will do drop tests when get up in morning, after coffee of course. I don't think my regents are bad as my numbers matched pool store numbers and test strips comfirm as much as possible.
    geekgranny
    1981, 25K, IG, Blue Plaster 1996, somewhat oval, widens a bit at shallow end, 1.5" pipes, 2" at Pad, 1 separate main drain, 1 skimmer, 4 returns + dedicated cleaner return, 10 ft deep end with very fast decline from shallow, Pentair Quad 80 DE, Pentair Intelliflo VF, 3/4 HP Booster Pump (equipment pad about 8 ft below top of pool), Challanger 3/4 Trash/Emergency Pump 120v, Polaris 280 (pressure), iRobot Verro cleaner (robotic), Aquabot Turbo (robotic), Jacuzzi Tracker 4X (vacuum) Pool Blaster (Buster), Two (2) PoolSkims, Solar Breeze (solar powered top skimmer) (beta to ver. 2, release date 2010), ColorSplash LED replacement bulb. Aries 550 gal separate spa, 2002 (our 3rd and BEST spa) , BBB-Bromine

  14. Back To Top    #14

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    North Central Texas
    Posts
    1,358

    Re: Using Puck for Stain in Deep End - How

    Update:

    Have gotten numbers up and near balance for few days now (didn't do calcium chloride till this week) added more last night.
    Numbers this a.m.
    POOL
    FC - 8
    CC -
    pH - 7.5
    TA - 100
    CH - estimated from TA 245
    CYA - 5
    Iron - 1.5 -3.0
    Copper -

    TAP
    FC - < 0.1
    CC -
    pH - 7.5
    TA - 60
    CH - estimated from TA 120
    CYA -
    Iron -
    Copper -

    I'm draining DE filter right now (after backwash) I have taken pictures over few days and today but don't want to take time to post as I have remove 36 sq ft stainless steel filter from system and drag it out from under the deck to get top off.

    and then do the cleaning of grids, inspecting (I know I'm going to have to replace some so will go to store to pick up while soaking going on) soaking in dwasher det., and then in muriatic acid solution, using plastic trash barrel.

    I'm running the Verro Cleaner (Aquabot maker I think) to keep pool water circulating.

    The other day I went to Leslie's to pick up the calcium chloride. Took some pool and tap water to be tested for Iron and copper. I don't think they test for copper but Iron was 1.5-3. Left tap water since near closing and several customers were waiting.

    BTW.... It was a pleasant experience with new manager. As he was testing (his other numbers agreed with my drop test kit) and answering the phone we were having some discussion about numbers and relationships. He asked me how I knew so much. I told him I am a Physicist (past life) and that I have discovered TFP on line and in process of switching from Ionization to BBB. I preferenced that with, "I know pool stores don't like to hear this but," and he said, "Oh no, I wish more people would learn how to properly manage their pools but most just want numbers from us, buy the chemicals, and not bother themselves "thinking" about the process." or words as such. I was pleasantly surprised. He said I might want to consider a product for metals; I didn't even look at it (asked if it was like Poyquat - he said yes) and told him I would deal with that a little later. He didn't press the issue. So I'm going to buy my grids there today.

    The original black stains are lightening somewhat on sides of pool. I did some puck and VitC test but nothing conclusive. Remember that I remove almost a pound (daily) of sand and silt that deposits over the day and most coming from puppy swim time. So the bottom and steps have begun to form a light tan staining. It appears it is only forming on the white scaling (blue plaster). Today I put some VitC tabs on some of the staining.

    After about 30 minutes there were black stains running down from the tablet making a streak about 12-14 inches long. There are no level areas in my pool as every thing slants down toward bottom drain in deep end. The shallow end deepens very fast.

    Anyone know what these stains are caused from? In shallow end, with a lot of scrubbing with the rubberized scrubby thing, I was able to lighten the black. With more scrubbing I'm sure that I could get rid of it especially since it is so new. The black stain, on steps, from VitC tab, went away scrubbing with puck. The brown staining on step was unfazed by puck.

    I'm pretty sure that this brown staining is coming from the silt/sand/dirt that the puppies drag in as it is darker on steps where they sometimes get in (the Doodles frequently leap on top of each other from all over the pool), or sit and rest/cool off, and sit to drink water. I didn't have it until I started swimming the puppies, which is virtually a daily thing. I've never had any dogs that play, in and out of the pool, as much as these three do.

    I have extreme scaling on steps. Much less on bottom of pool. 13 yr old light blue plaster so can see the difference in color. Last year, when my friend and I acid washed (third acid wash since re plaster in '96), the acid did help with scaling on sides (we even used straight acid in some places) but I was afraid to use that high a concentration on the steps as scaling was not even and didn't want to pit the good blue plaster showing through in places. I spent quite a few hours trying all kinds of things to get it off. Ended up using an 18v angle grinder with disc (2) for concrete; really hard stuff. I'm not sure how long it took but I went through at least three Li-ion battery charges (they last an amazingly long time) to get the bottom step scaling off. That was the night I slipped and tore my shoulder rotator tendon so decided to leave the other steps for later.

    Any ideas what the black stain from VitC indicates?

    Also, I got really concerned studying about DE. I have to backwash weekly to my woods. So, when I get all grids cleaned up and/or replaced I'm switching over to cellulose. Already have it; from Leslie's. Later will check out price comparison between theirs and ZeoFiber.

    Thanks, geekgranny=alice
    1981, 25K, IG, Blue Plaster 1996, somewhat oval, widens a bit at shallow end, 1.5" pipes, 2" at Pad, 1 separate main drain, 1 skimmer, 4 returns + dedicated cleaner return, 10 ft deep end with very fast decline from shallow, Pentair Quad 80 DE, Pentair Intelliflo VF, 3/4 HP Booster Pump (equipment pad about 8 ft below top of pool), Challanger 3/4 Trash/Emergency Pump 120v, Polaris 280 (pressure), iRobot Verro cleaner (robotic), Aquabot Turbo (robotic), Jacuzzi Tracker 4X (vacuum) Pool Blaster (Buster), Two (2) PoolSkims, Solar Breeze (solar powered top skimmer) (beta to ver. 2, release date 2010), ColorSplash LED replacement bulb. Aries 550 gal separate spa, 2002 (our 3rd and BEST spa) , BBB-Bromine

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •