Cloudy water - Should I drain 2/3rds of my pool?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
K

kapbo

0
Apr 23, 2018
6
Austin, Texas
I've been struggling with water clarity and chemical levels for over a month since the oak leaves and pollen started falling here in central TX. I do my own pool care and our pool is surrounded by several oak trees (which is good news and bad news).

My water has improved but is still cloudy with a coating of algae that reappears after each brushing. I've tried to maintain high chlorine levels (with a combination of liquid bleach, Dichlor granules and yesterday tried Cal Hypo granules). I guess I haven't followed the full SLAM method because my pool hasn't gotten better. I use a K-2006 test kit and also took a water sample to Leslies today. They said I should drain 2/3 of my pool due to high calcium hardness and dissolved solids.

At the advice of a local pool maintenance guy I've also added SeaKlear clarifier twice (one week apart) and tried No Mor Problems (because my CYA is high). These havent' helped much.

Here are my numbers:
~30K gallons
FC and TC are zero (even though I shocked with Cal Hypo last night)
Calcium Hardness 560
CYA 99
Alkalinity 120
pH 7.6
Total Dissolved Solids 1700
Phosphates 200
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: It sounds as though you're receiving conflicting advice, and the best thing to do now would be to take 100% control of your pool and water. I have a suspicion that the test results you listed above are from the pool store right? Because we know the K-2006 doesn't test for TDS or phosphates. :wink: SO first item of advice - stop going to the pool store. No need. You have a K-2006 and that's good enough. Also save your money and don't bother with anymore clarifiers or anything else like that.

The links below in my signature will serve you well. That's where it all starts. Here around S.A., we've received tons of oak blossoms and everything else, but our water's fine. At some point your FC level got too low for your current CYA. The pool store reading of 99 is probably not accurate, so use your K-2006 from now on. In fact, let's start there and run a new set of tests with your K-2006 and let us see what you get. Then we can advise you much better.

FYI - Be prepared to use nothing more than regular bleach for yoru chlorination (FC). No more bags of shock or pool store oils to try and remedy a cloudy pool. Cloudy = algae, and it sounds like that's what needs to be treated. So let us see those K-2006 results and we'll give you some pinpoint accurate advice. Glad you found us on the forum.
 
Also, for the CYA test specifically, when you go to do it, if the dot disappears incredibly fast indicating the CYA could be over 100, use the dilution CYA test method as noted on the TFP Pool School - CYA page. Your CYA might actually be 150, 200 or more. Your testing will confirm.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you very much. Thanks especially for the pointer to the CYA dilution method. That lack of precision at the high end always bothered me.

OK, I tested with my K-2006 and here are the results.

FC 0.2-0.4
TC 0.0-0.2
CH 700 (using the 10ml method)
CYA 120
TA 90
pH 7.7

I also have a handheld TDS tester that reads 1420 ppm. My outdoor tap water is 150 ppm. (This is the water I would use for any refilling).

I look forward to your advice on what to do next.

The reason I didn't follow the SLAM method is that the calculator says I have to add 14 gallons of liquid bleach, which seemed excessive. I use the 10% liquid bleach from Home Depot.
 
You definitely should drain some water first. A 60% drain would get your CYA down to around 50 which should be just fine for Texas. The drain will also lower your CH a decent amount as well so that's an added bonus. Once you refill, adjust pH down to 7.2 and SLAM. You'll want to bring your FC shock level up to 20. From 0 to 20 in your 30000 gallon pool, it requires 747 oz of 10% liquid chlorine, or slightly less than 6 gallons. Follow the SLAM procedure to a tee. The more often you check the FC and top it back up to 20, the faster the pool will clear. Also, since you'll be replacing over 50% of your water, it probably will speed up the SLAM process a little (because of the fresh water). Make sure you brush the pool a couple of times a day to break up any algae biofilm from forming on the walls and floor.

Don't pay any attention to TDS and Phosphates. Those tests are what pool stores use to sell you magic potions that you absolutely don't need with a properly maintained pool. Ignore them.
 
OK I'm on it! I'll do my best to estimate 60%.

I don't even need to ask if I should return the bottle of copper based Black Algae solution they sold me at Leslie's this morning :eek:

A few quickies:
- Is it OK to rinse the filters during the refill process or should I wait? Even though it's only been 3 wks, I think they need it again with all the algae.
- Should I run the pump during refill and just close off the skimmer and catch basin valves?
- During SLAM, I understand I run the pump/filter non-stop. Can I do this at my normal 2000rpm? Or should I go all the way to a higher speed (top speed =3450rpm)? Here are my corresponding pump pressures: 2000rpm = 8lbs, 2750=17lbs, 3450=24lb.
- During SLAM (and normal operation) should I use pucks in my puck holder cylinder? I usually do since they dissolve so slowly.

Thanks!
 
Since you have a cartridge filter and can't backwash, definitely rinse the filters. Algae accumulates very quickly, especially on a cartridge filter. You might even have to do it again before your SLAM is over.

There's really no need to run the pump during the refill. It should be done within half a day or so. You can run it at your slower RPM's but it will probably take longer to clear the pool. The water will turn over faster at a higher RPM. However, you don't need to go all the way to the high speed. I would settle maybe at 2000 - 2500 RPM's just so you're not using the full electricity, which can get quite expensive at the high speed.

Remove all pucks from the feeder and don't use them anymore. If you have a bunch left, you can save them for when you go on vacation and don't have any way to add chlorine to your pool. Those pucks are probably what got you in trouble in the first place with your high CYA. All solid forms of chlorine add either stabilizer (CYA) or calcium with every usage. Stick with liquid chlorine. It only adds chlorine and a little bit of salt. Once you refill and take your new CYA reading, you'll know what level of chlorine you'll have to use to keep it sanitary. Follow the CYA/FC chart and you'll never have a problem. Plus, your CYA will stay steady instead of climbing like it did with the tablets.
 
I drained and refilled ~60% of my pool. Per my water meter, I used 15.1K gal yesterday which means about 15K went into the pool, or about a 55% refill.

Unfortunately by CYA only dropped to 70 :(.

My CH dropped to 350 :).

I got the pH to 7.2 and then just added 6 gal of bleach. I guess I need to add 1.5g more to get to FC=28, correct?
 
Yes, keep FC at 28. You will have to keep FC above 8 after you are done.
Some like to take pictures of things in the pool (steps, ladder etc) to gauge how it is doing. Hard to tell when you see it every day.
If you want to lower more, drain some before a TX thunderstorm comes through.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
kapbo said:
I drained and refilled ~60% of my pool. Per my water meter, I used 15.1K gal yesterday which means about 15K went into the pool, or about a 55% refill.

Unfortunately by CYA only dropped to 70 :(.

My CH dropped to 350 :).

I got the pH to 7.2 and then just added 6 gal of bleach. I guess I need to add 1.5g more to get to FC=28, correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, you need to keep FC at SLAM level based on the CYA. So if CYA is 70, then you are correct that SLAM level is 28ppm FC. You can do one of 2 things: continue with CYA of 70 or drain 30% again to get CYA to 50. Its your choice.

lower CYA will allow lower FC levels for now and future maintenance.
keep CYA and will need to maintain higher FC level. You will also use more reagents when testing.
FYI, when you do the test, use the 10mL sample size and each drop is 0.5ppm. So effectively +/-16 drops per test difference during SLAM.

I would recommend that you order a refill of the FAS/DPD test (powder and drops) before you run out. You can get the XL option from TFTestkits.net. The K-2006 doesn't have a lot of reagents for a continued SLAM.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply