Replumb and installing jandy valves help please

[Caupsguy]

Hello everybody,
so I want to eliminate the hand pool/spa valve and all the 90s and add straight pvc with 2 Jandy valves. One Jandy for the skimmer and one for the pool/spa. My question is.........is this possible and if so how???

 

[Caupsguy]

Re: Replumb and installing jandy valves help please

Hello all
so I want to eliminate an old in ground hand valve for the pool and spa labeled A B C D and add Jandy Valves on the suction side (skimmer and main drain) and the return side (spa and pool). I also want to eliminate the 48 sq ft d.e. Filter and install a 60 sg.ft. Cartridge pentair. And finally, need to replace a 7 foot copper return line because of pin hole leaks.
So......I cut the concrete and removed the dirt thinking easy peasy. Well, I got as far as marking the pvc and am asking for some step by step instruction on doing these with you all guiding me. Thank you

Kim's note: I merged his two threads

 

[proavia]

Is that underground gas line just regular PVC? The color in the pic looks like the line is a white color. Also, the rust on the metal parts of the gasline - nearer the heater - needs to be addressed.

The "flip" valve with pipes A,B,C,D switches the system from pool to spa. My suggestion would be to eliminate that valve and homerun all the lines to an above ground location at the equipment pad. Then you would install Jandy valves above ground to control all needed functions.

Let's see what others have to suggest.

 

[Jimrahbe]

C,

Wow!!! That is one hot mess you are trying to fix...

I know this might not be what you want to hear, but I think that you would be much better off removing a little more concrete and re-plumbing like today's pools.. I mean your 75% there already..

If this were my pool (and I was 30 years younger) I would take out two feet of concrete right in front of the pump and filter.. This would allow you to remove the pump, the filter and heater and re-layout the plumbing so that you could have a true, Intake and Return valve setup needed for a Pool and Spa combo.

What you want to end up with is an "Intake" valve at the input to your pump that allows you to select suction from either your Spa Drain or your Skimmer.. And after the heater you want the "Return" valve that allows you to return the water to your Pool or to the Spa Jets... Easy for me to say but a lot harder for you to do, I'm sure...

I would cut the concrete back so that you could surround the equipment pad with river stone, so that it had a place to drain and where you did not have to bring any pipes up through the concrete.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[PoolGate]

C,

Wow!!! That is one hot mess you are trying to fix...

I know this might not be what you want to hear, but I think that you would be much better off removing a little more concrete and re-plumbing like today's pools.. I mean your 75% there already..

If this were my pool (and I was 30 years younger) I would take out two feet of concrete right in front of the pump and filter.. This would allow you to remove the pump, the filter and heater and re-layout the plumbing so that you could have a true, Intake and Return valve setup needed for a Pool and Spa combo.

What you want to end up with is an "Intake" valve at the input to your pump that allows you to select suction from either your Spa Drain or your Skimmer.. And after the heater you want the "Return" valve that allows you to return the water to your Pool or to the Spa Jets... Easy for me to say but a lot harder for you to do, I'm sure...

I would cut the concrete back so that you could surround the equipment pad with river stone, so that it had a place to drain and where you did not have to bring any pipes up through the concrete.

Thanks,

Jim R.

+1 what a mess! My thoughts exactly! Re-plumb that to modern standards. No valve should ever be buried.

Also I certainly hope that your gas line is not PVC and that is just a jacket for the iron gas line. If not, that needs to be addressed and remediated immediately.

 

[Caupsguy]

I want to hear it!!!! Thank you Kim for merging my requests. And the others for guiding me. I am going to take this project on. I was thinking:

1st shut off power from the house electrical panel
2nd. cut two feet from the pump and filter
3rd. Drain pool about 3 feet so I don’t flood my back yard when I replumb
4th Disconnect and Remove pump,filter and heater
5th. Break up pump & filter pad and heater pad. Both on individual uneven pads

thank you all and look forward to doing this project with the help and guidance from you !!!!

 

[Jimrahbe]

C,

Sounds like a good plan to me...

Keep us up to date,

Jim R.

 

[Caupsguy]

Thanks. I’m seriously thinking of removing that pvc gas line .........I can buy flex gas line from a customer I deliver to for around 400.oo bucks.

 

[Robrike]

Thanks. I’m seriously thinking of removing that pvc gas line .........I can buy flex gas line from a customer I deliver to for around 400.oo bucks.

Do you actually have gas running thru that PVC line?? To the best of my knowledge that is not up to code anywhere ever. Be VERY CAREFUL working around that line. PVC can get pretty brittle in general, no telling what natural gas running thru it could do to its integrity. If it were me I would shut the gas off to that line before I touched any lines around it.

Good luck with your project. I admire your desire to straighten out that pipe mess. Be careful and have fun with it. Always satisfying to see a completed project and know that you did that on your own.

 

[Caupsguy]

Not sure if it’s pvc.

 

[Caupsguy]

Thanks. I don’t like that gas line. I’m going to replace but first I’m going to the city and get a permit

 

[Caupsguy]

So I can’t quite picture your “homerun” suggestion more specifically how the suction and return lines would not come up through the concrete. I am thinking about moving the entire equipment pad 20 feet along side the divider wall but waiting to see what the permit requires me to do if I decide to move all the equipment.

 

[Caupsguy]

Never mind my statement about not understanding how the lines would not come up through the concrete.........I had a brain fart.

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you for responding. I wouldn’t even attempt this if I didn’t have you all in my corner. I’m gonna get a permit first

 

[PoolGate]

Never mind my statement about not understanding how the lines would not come up through the concrete.........I had a brain fart.

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you for responding. I wouldn’t even attempt this if I didn’t have you all in my corner. I’m gonna get a permit first

Be careful what you wish for here... Permitting means inspections. Some places will not sign off unless you provide proof that a professional did or at least blessed the work. Gas work could be VERY expensive. I know around here to fix a gas line would be upwards of $2k. Tread with caution!

Also I don't think you need to empty your pool. You can simply plug the pool lines at the pool while you are working on your equipment.

Also don't forget to add chlorine regularly and get a small submersible sump pump to keep the water circulated when you add something.

 

[Jimrahbe]

C,

Please look at the first pic in this link... Jandy Valve Plumbing Schematics - INYOPools.com
... Basic Pool and Spa Combination Plumbing


The valve right in front of the pump is called the "Intake" valve and it allows you to suck water from either the Spa Drain or the Pool (Skimmer or main Drain)...

The valve that is after the heater is called the "Return" valve and it allows you to send water to either the Spa jets or the Pool return eyeballs....

I believe that the valves that you have labeled as "A, B, C, D" are the Intake and Return valves for your system.. What you need to do is move the location of these valves from the middle of the deck, to the equipment pad. You should end up with something similar to the picture in the link...

I am not sure that you have them labeled correctly, but it could just be a terminology issue... You have one labeled as "filter".. Assuming that is the pipe that is currently connected to your pump, than that would be the Intake valve and the pipes marked A and B would be the input pipes from your Skimmer and the Spa drain.. You will have to make sure which is which..

Again, assuming that the pipe marked "Filter" is going to the pump, that means that the valve marked as C and D.. is the Return valve... That would mean C and D are the pipes that send water back to the pool and back to the Spa jets... You will have to make sure which pipe is which..

This is what was meant when it was suggested that you "Home Run" the pipes.. Basically it means that all the pipes go to the pad so that any valves or connections are all above ground.

Thanks,

Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

I too would be careful with city permits...

 

[Arizonarob]

Man that IS one tricky situation you have there. I admire your DIY enthusiasm for this project, but the elephant in the room is that gas line. As the pros have already said, be careful with that line as god forbid anything went wrong, (now or in the future) people could get hurt. If it were me, I’d call in a licensed pro to have that one line replaced first, that way the town can sign off on the permit.
I wouldn’t touch anything else until that was done, then you could proceed with the rest of your replumb. Good luck and take pictures along the way so everyone can see your progress and offer up tips!

 

[Caupsguy]

That’s a good point. Thank you

- - - Updated - - -

I’m going to stop digging and banging around until I get a gas line pro out here. I’m so lucky that I didn’t cut the gas line when I cut my the concrete. Thanks again

 

[Caupsguy]

Thanks Jim. I looked at the pool plumbing schematics from Inyo like u suggested. A very good example of suction side and return side setup. So looks like I’m going with:
3 two way jandy valves
2 diverters
1 check valve
id also like to include a water valve to hook up my water hose ...........how would I do that and where is the best place for this water hose hook up???

 

[Caupsguy]

Im thinking of addressing the whole electrical mess I have. Here is what I’d like:

1. Run electrical wire for pump, heater, 2 shut-off switches and 4 receptacles in conduit from house panel to a sub-panel
2. find out why my pool light was working and now it’s not.

thanks in advance for any suggestions

 

[Caupsguy]

So got my permits which allow me to
add 30 feet FROM existing gas line WOW
Add a 40 amp sub-panel
so this is my plan:
remove heater from pool equipment and replumb filter and pump together
THIS IS ALL I GOT!!! Lol

city inspector told me that the current white gas line is not PVC but some other life time material—OK.
and that I could tap into that line so I could add 30 feet which will allow me to move the equipment but I had to go 18 inches deep.
Question. Should I cut the white gas line at the elbow farthest from heater?????
Or should I try to unscrew the gas pipe from the elbow???
basically, what is the easiest way to connect from existing line 30 feet away from current location.
I believe it’s 1 1/2 gas line that I’m tapping into. It was taped with black tape and clue thanks for your help!!!