Order of Chemicals

[Spydrwoman]

Hi Folks, found this site in a search and I've spent many hours looking at it, reading the info, etc... before deciding I needed to register. I might have missed this info but I was wondering if there's an order to balancing the chemicals. Say, CYA first, FC second, Ph third, etc... for maximum results. Like many others, I've spent hundreds of $$$$ on chemicals from the local pool store with poor results so I've decided to give the bleach, borax, and CYA a try. I'm starting from scratch with an on-going algae problem. I tested last night and my CYA is not reading, my FC is very low and I've not been able to keep it up this season, PH and Alk is good.

I've never posted anywhere so if I'm doing this wrong please correct me.

16x32 above ground with dished out bottom
4'x6.5' approximately 16,700gals
Vinyl Liner
150lb Sand filter -1.5HP pump

 

[dravenone]

Assuming you are using a good test kit and are comparing your results to those publisehed in pool school, you need to get CYA in your pool. That is the reason you can't hold any FC. You can use the Pool Calculator to figure out how much CYA you need to add.

You should really publish your numbers just so others can give more educated responses.

When everything is out of balance the order seems to be PH first, then CYA/FC second, I believe the rest depends on your pool finish and equipment.

 

[Butterfly]

Hi Spydrwoman,

Please post a full set of water test results and tell us how you got them (test strips, pool store, etc.)

How you have been chlorinating your pool? Do you feel comfortable that your CYA test is correct?

Before adding any CYA, please redo the CYA test or take a water sample to a pool store to be tested.

It would be helpful if you added your pool and equipment specs in your Sig.
Go to User Control Panel (upper left under TFP logo), select Profile, then Edit Sig.

We'll help you take control of your pool

Welcome to the forum

 

[duraleigh]

Hey, Spyderwoman,

I can still remember the first time I posted on a forum....it takes a little getting used to. YOur first post was great and, as the others have said, if you could post up some specific numbers, we'll all help get you on the right track.

Dravenone was right on the money.....pH first, then we'll help you get chlorine and CYA in your pool and get your pool cleared up.

The accuracy and currency of your tests are really important. Let us know how and when they were done.

 

[Spydrwoman]

Sorry for the delay in reply; Sadly (but true), I had to ask my son how to reply to posts.
I use both strips and HTH 6-way test kit to gauge accuracy when testing. I ran out of the CYA re-agent earlier in the week and can't find it locally so yesterday I took a sample to the local pool place for testing (they charge $25 to test your water) and here are the results:
Alk 100
PH 7.3
TC 0
CYA 40

They didn't want to test the CYA and I had to insist.

I added 5 gals (96 oz's each) of 6% bleach last night and today the chlorine (by my drop test) is reading 3.0, PH is 7.8 and the water is looking better. Still a little tinge of green but so much better than it was at the beginning of the week. I'm brushing daily to keep anything stirred up and moving. I'm almost afraid to backwash because it'll mess up my numbers but it's a necessary evil. I just hope my CYA reagent gets here pretty quickly so I can stay on top of the numbers.

I just want to clear the water, get and keep it balanced so we can use it for what's left of the TN summer.

Thanks for your help and advice.

 

[MikeInTN]

Hey neighbor!

For a CYA =40, your shock level is 15, meaning you should raise your FC to 15 and keep it there as best you can until you can pass the overnight FC loss test. What's the overnight FC loss test? Glad you asked. You test your FC in the evening when the sun is off the pool, and bring it up to shock level with bleach. You test it again in the morning before the sun's on the pool, and compare the two readings. If you (1) lose more than 1 ppm FC overnight, (2) have a CC reading greater than .5 ppm, and your water doesn't look sparkling, then keep your FC at shock level until you do meet all three criteria. Once you meet them, then you can stop shocking your pool and let your FC drift down to normal values.

One problem you're going to have is that your test kit only measures FC up to 5ppm. So, you have three choices there; (a) keep taking it to the pool store to be tested (b) purchase a FAS-DPD test kit or a kit containing the FAS-DPD test, or (c) use the dilution method to get an approximation of what your FC is.

BTW, according to the pool calculator, it's going to take quite a bit of 6% bleach to shock your pool. I get 519 oz of 6% bleach to take you from FC=0 to FC=15, and then you'll need additional bleach to keep the water at this shock value until you're done. So, you might want to find you a good source of either liquid chlorine or bleach.

 

[PaulR]

I took a sample to the local pool place for testing (they charge $25 to test your water)

Wow, never heard of anybody charging to test water before.

I think you can get the FAS-DPD chlorine test online for about $25, and do your own testing for the rest of the season. I know tftestkits.net sells it separately, I think Taylor does too.
--paulr

 

[Spydrwoman]

Thanks guys, I'll do the FC test before bed tonight and again in the morning before work and see what the difference is. My pool gets full sun all day, no breaks. I noted the limitations to my test kit as soon as I started going through this site and will make a trip to The Pool Place in Knoxville tomorrow to see if I can get a better test kit. If not, will order the kit on line as suggested. I believe I can take a water sample to The Pool Place and they'll test it for free so the trip won't be wasted if they don't have the test kit I'm looking for.