Attached is a picture of pool piping. Pool Builder has redone piping like 3 times and there is always 1 weak sheer. Using a Hayward Super Pump II 2.5 hp to run just the 6 sheer descents. Does anyone see a better way of piping it? Would a 3.0 hp motor work better? 2 of the sheers have levels to reduce pressure but not the other 4. Still not enough power. The pool picture shows 4 waterfalls but there are 2 more on planter. Please help me out. Thanks.
Help with Piping to get 6 Sheer Descents flowing Equally
- Thread starter elcoach66
- Start date
On the vast majority of pools I've serviced, the solution seems to be to put a ball valve on every return. That way you can tweak each individually until they are in balance. By piping alone it is a logistical nightmare to get 6 falls to all flow equally.
I might add that each foot of sheer descent requires a minimum of 10 gpm. i.e. 12 feet of SD requires 120 gpm. Hopefully your suction line to the pump will supply that, and your pump will take it.
I see cavitation on water feature pumps many times.
I might add that each foot of sheer descent requires a minimum of 10 gpm. i.e. 12 feet of SD requires 120 gpm. Hopefully your suction line to the pump will supply that, and your pump will take it.
I see cavitation on water feature pumps many times.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
That's good advice above. Ball valves can be set partially open to control flow, as can pool valves. I would use pool valves if they're in direct sun.
They could be hidden behind the feature wall above ground (handiest) or below ground in service boxes. You can also run separate pipes to each feature with the throttling valves at the pad, if that's an option.
They could be hidden behind the feature wall above ground (handiest) or below ground in service boxes. You can also run separate pipes to each feature with the throttling valves at the pad, if that's an option.
Thanks yesterday it was changed. And its worse. More pictures added. I will let them know about the valves u suggested.
- - - Updated - - -
Here are the pictures
- - - Updated - - -
Here are the pictures
I agree with Mayorb, the only way to balance this is to have a valve on every supply to each SD. This would require either each SD pipe be home run back to the equipment pad or you will have to hide the valves in the ground/landscaping closer to the pool.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,399
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I would have run the larger diameter pipe all the way to the the sheers then only tapped off with the smalle pipe when you get near each sheer. That looks like 1” pipe feeding the sheer and I’m not sure that pipe can support enough flow. As others have said, you absolutely need adjustable ball valves on each sheer to make fine adjustments or else the water flow is simply going to divide itself up based on the inherent head loss of each sheer - the greater the head loss (ie, the sheer that’s furthest away) then the less flow it will get.
Do the sheers have their own pump and suction source or is this all being driven by the main pool pump?
Do the sheers have their own pump and suction source or is this all being driven by the main pool pump?
I would suggest the IntelliFloXF pump for best performance.
Ideally, the suction should be 3". For the returns, I would do individual 1.5" lines to each with separate valves for best control.
Ideally, the suction should be 3". For the returns, I would do individual 1.5" lines to each with separate valves for best control.
I am attaching how it was originally done by the pool builder. The one doing my remodel changed it. The weakest one was that last one on the picture. Here the 3" pipe ran all across. But had a funky connection at end which made it weak.
I am gathering from your updated pictures your pool guy effectively made a form of a plumbing loop to maintain pressure?
Analysis of Plumbing Loops and Other Configurations
Analysis of Plumbing Loops and Other Configurations
yes he did, but most of the connections were not as clean as those diagrams. Thanks for the link of loops. They will come out Monday and re do.
Got new plumbing done with valve at each one. It has improved but i notice on 2 of them like a blockage. I think when the new tile and coping was put its not a clear path for them.. Please zoom picture and let me know what you think.
Feel like it needs a little more boost. Anyone think going from 2.5 motor to 3HP make a difference? its 3 inch pipe then goes to 2.
Thanks
Feel like it needs a little more boost. Anyone think going from 2.5 motor to 3HP make a difference? its 3 inch pipe then goes to 2.
Thanks
Attachments
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
They look good to me, but I cant get a decent picture file quality. I would crank up the heater and float/bob under all four 
for the 6 sheers..Would a Waterfall pump be better? If so which one do you recommend? I noticed on the current 3 hp pump cavitation. I had to shut off 3 sheers to get good flow.
Cavitation is happening on the suction side likely because the pipe is too long of run or possibly restricted as 3” usually is fine. Blocking some sheer decents reduces the flow alleviating the problem. A bigger pump won’t necessarily help (unless it has a better suction lift rating). I have a 3hp pump running 3ea 24” units and ball valves in each line to control and balance flow. If you don’t have a ball valve in each sheer decent pipe, you can’t evenly adjust flow. Sounds like they are in place? If so, Suggest you start with each valve 1/4 way open and see if pump,will run without cavitation. Slowly increase one by one each valve to even the flow. Once they are open enough to cause pump cavitation. Close each down slightly reducing flow evenly to each and hopefully you will have so,ething to looks good and works OK.