Complete newbie with brand new pool. Please help me get started!

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bere

bere

0
Bronze Supporter
Feb 5, 2018
54
Mont Belvieu, TX
Hello!

I've been lurking here for a while trying to learn how to take care of my new pool and I think I've got an overall understanding of the TFP method and I can't wait to try it. My pool was plastered 9 days ago and the pool builder came by this morning to give me "Pool School" instructions of pool basics, but he really just left me at the mercy of Leslie's. All he said was "put chlorine tablets in here and take some water to Leslie's to get tested and they will tell you everything you need to maintain the pool." Now, I've spent enough time here to know better than that! I am full of questions though, I have never in my life taken care of a pool before. I'm hoping you guys can point me in the right direction. My main questions right now are:

1. How soon can I start the TFP method?
2. Should I continue using the tablets for now?
3. I have a spa that is flush with the pool, does the same method apply to the spa? Do I also test the water in the spa separately?

I think I got all the basic information in my signature. Let me know if there is anything I missed.

Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:
but he really just left me at the mercy of Leslie's. All he said was "put chlorine tablets in here and take some water to Leslie's to get tested and they will tell you everything you need to maintain the pool."
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Simply amazing. They got paid, that's all they care about now. Now for your questions:
1. How soon can I start the TFP method?
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Conceivably, now. But make sure your builder doesn't have any specific requirements for testing that apply to your plaster warranty. If not, start immediately.
2. Should I continue using the tablets for now?
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Depends. Did they add any stabilizer/conditioner? You need to know your current CYA level to see. If your CYA is at 50 or more, I'd pull the pucks and save them for later. Stick to just regular bleach from HEB (Bravo) or Wal-Mart (Great Value).
3. I have a spa that is flush with the pool, does the same method apply to the spa? Do I also test the water in the spa separately?
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If they share the same water/plumbing, then pretty-much the same.

If you prefer, post a full set of test results from your own testing and we'll validate those numbers with you. :grin:
 
Hi and Welcome! We have you covered and do not even get paid :roll: LOL

Here is a good plaster start up card for you:

http://www.nptpool.com/sites/nptpool.com/files/NPC_SwimmingPoolStart-UpProcedures.pdf

You did great with your siggy! THANKS!

Make sure to run all of your water features at least once a day to mix the water up and keep it from getting stagnant in the pipes.

Now you can pay us!!!! Please show us a pretty picture or 100 of your pool and area! I REALLY want to see the cocktail cove!!!!

Kim:kim:
 
bere said:
Thank you so much for the quick replies!

I just did my first set of tests. I hope I did it right. Here's what I got:

FC - 2.0
pH - 8.0
TA - 375 (I did this one twice, can that be right?)
CH - 40
CYA - 50
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You may have mixed up TA and CH tests. The TA test uses the 25 ml sample and multiplies the result by 10. The CH uses the 10 ml sample and multiplies by 25.

I'd bring the FC up in line with this chart. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Keep the pH in the 7's, aim for 7.4 or so for now. Let us know what happened with the TA and CH tests.

Edit to add: I like the design, it fits in well in your backyard. But after seeing the pictures you may want to do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and depending on if that is algae or plaster dust clouding up your pool you may need to SLAM Process.
 
bere, your water looks cloudy in the second pic. Is that just from the wind making ripples, or perhaps because of brushing the new plaster? Maybe both?

Your TA could be that high. Some areas do have a high TA. Your pH is also elevated which is expected with new plaster. But your CH (if tested correctly) is very low, so the elevated TA and pH are working in your favor - for now. So your CH test only took two drops huh? If that's the case, adding some calcium will be needed shortly to protect your new plaster (minimum 250 ppm). First & foremost, your FC is too low for your current CYA. Those two are balanced together as seen on the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. I'd bump the FC to 5 right away with regular bleach to avoid algae - which also looks cloudy at first.

What I would like for you to bookmark is this page: Pool School - Recommended Levels. It shows all the proper levels for your non-SWG pool. You'll refer to it often.
 
I just retested TA and I got 380 (it took 38 drops to change to red) CH 40 (it took 4 drops for the CH test to turn blue). The kit says to multiply both of these by 10.

The water is cloudy because I've been brushing the plaster daily and there is a lot of dust still being released.

I have some bleach on the way, I will add some as soon as it gets here. Should I lower my PH and raise my CH now? The builder gave me some muriatic acid and calcium increaser.
 
I'm a newbie myself, but let me give you some of my lessons learned:

Brush brush brush. I know that's not your question, but when they say "plaster looks best when brushed at least twice a day," they really mean "your plaster will develop unsightly dull spots if you don't brush it AT LEAST twice a day."

Luckily my ignorance did not result in too many dull looking spots. If I could do it all again, I would get up early in the morning before work and brush, and brush again after I got home. And brush even more if I had more time to do it.

Also, don't use the Cal Hypo powder shock stuff. I bleached a tiny white spot on my dark plaster doing that. Looks like you were wiser than I to come here so soon in the life of your new pool.

My "pool school" guy told me exactly the same thing. Being a Navy type, I didn't need so much of the instruction on pumps, pipes, valves, and all that. I was most concerned with pool chemistry, and he also just told me to "make friends with Leslie's." ...criminal!

Edit: That's a very nice looking pool by the way. Nicely done. :D
 

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I was right there with you. I don't want to instill any sense of urgency, and it's a huge pain for 8-5 types (with kids, lol), but I highly recommend trying to bite the bullet and brushing it at least twice a day. If you're on stay-cation I would even recommend three times a day if possible.
 
That is what I like to see! A go getter! We suggest/ask for something and get it! THANKS!

That is one nice looking pool!! LOVE the design and layout! I would be eating dinner out there every night once the water warmed up!

Ready for your next job? Time to pop the top on your filter. With that much dust I bet it is getting quite full. When do this make sure to have something to write on and with close by. Clean the filter good...........wait do you know HOW to clean it? Here is a link just in case: Re: How to clean a cartridge filter

Once it is clean and put back together get your paper and pen. When you turn on the equipment this time you should look at our filter gauge. Write down what the pressure is. That is your "clean filter" pressure. You can also mark the gauge to show where this is as well.

Now that you know your "clean pressure" you will be able to know when your filter needs to be cleaned again. When your pressure has increased by 20% over the "clean pressure" is when you want to clean it. You will do this quite a bit more often during the plaster curing due to the dust.

Good thing you are off this week huh? :hug:

Kim:kim:
 
Oh me, oh my!! Well lets back up a step or two here then! Cleaning a filter 101:

-turn off the power to the pump/filter/equipment
-drain the filter using the drain plug (Do you have the paper work that came with the filter? If not look it up online and it should tell you what is what and how to do this.)
-Have a bowl or cup (plastic) to put the bolts in
-pull the cartridge out of the filter housing
-put the cartridge on something that can get wet and messy away from anything you want to stay clean. I used a cinder block when I had a cartridge filter.
-Look inside and see if the body needs to be rinsed or such.
-put it back together
-turn the power back on and start her up!
-make note of your clean pressure
-pour yourself an adult drink for a job well done!

It would not be a bad idea to take pics along the way to make sure you put it all back together like it should be.

Kim:kim:
 
Oh just wait until you see how pretty that pool is when we get done with it!!!

bere, you can do the filter on your own. I used to do mine and, while it was wet, it was easy. I really encourage you to watch your hubby while he does it and let him show you what is what so you can learn to do it. We have one lady on here that is having to learn how to take care of her pool on her own as her hubby used to take care of it without any help or input from her. Now he is gone and she is having to learn as she goes. Thankfully she found TFP and we have been able to teach her just about everything so she is catching on quick and her pool is looking better than ever before!

Kim:kim:
 
bere, going back to your CH test earlier, per the TFP Pool School - Calcium Hardness page, "Multiply the number of drops by 25 to get your CH level." So if it took 4 drops to turn blue, then you're at a CH of 100. That's better than 40 for sure. If your water is anything like mine, it's hard. You can always test your fill water from a hose (not house soft water) just to see how hard it is. But by this weekend, you might consider adding some calcium hardener to get your CH up to at least 180-200 for better protection to the plaster.

Try to remember - New plaster means a constant process (curing) of driving-up the pH. That's why you'll always need to test pH every couple days (easy to do) and add some muriatic acid to keep the pH around 7.6-7.8. Also, yes, the TA is a bit elevated and when it's that high allows the pH to creep-up that much faster as well. Usually not what we want, BUT .... your CH is still low, so it helps balance that out. We'll talk more about that relationship later. You have lots to learn, so we'll try to keep it simple. We'll come back to that.

So for now, as Kim noted, watch your filter PSI gauge. When the pressure increases by about 20% from the clean pressure, rinse it off (plaster dust). Use your FAS-DPD to verify your FC is between 4-6 right now, and never below 3 (algae). That's a no-no. :whip:.

Before adding calcium increaser, I would give it a few days of more brushing and testing practice to ensure that 100 is actually a good CH number. Because once CH is in, you can't get it out without changing water (same applies for a high CYA). So focus on the FC and pH daily for now, and give those arms a good workout with the brushing, and keep us posted.
 
Ok, y'all, I added bleach, muriatic acid and some calcium increaser little by little since yesterday and these are my numbers as of now:

FC 5.0
pH 7.4
TA 325
CH 125
CYA 50

I see I still need a little more bleach and calcium. What can I do about the TA? Any other suggestions?
 

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