I need to get a new booster pump. When I measured the voltage between the two hot wires (the third wire being ground) it was 220 volts. I'm pretty sure that means it's wired for 220 volts, but would like to confirm. Thanks!
How to tell if current booster pump wiring is for 220 or 110 volts
- Thread starter harixxxx
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,754
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If you have it wired to a DB 20amp+ greater breaker, it's 220. usually a one pole [one hot wire] breaker indicates 110 volts...however, testing is definitely the best way
Thanks for the responses. Now I can go ahead & replace the pump.
Will have to rewire the new pump for 220V as it comes wired for 110V.
A 2-pole breaker is used for the booster pump, the 2 wires going to
what I assume is the relay. Two wires from the relay go to the pump.
Will have to rewire the new pump for 220V as it comes wired for 110V.
A 2-pole breaker is used for the booster pump, the 2 wires going to
what I assume is the relay. Two wires from the relay go to the pump.
Which booster pump comes wired for 115 volts?
Most dual voltage motors come wired for 230 volts.
Are you sure that the motor comes wired for 115 volts?
Most dual voltage motors come wired for 230 volts.
Are you sure that the motor comes wired for 115 volts?
This is the pump wired for 110V:
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-...pID=31LrTR-pVKL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
- - - Updated - - -
A follow-up question:
Instead of rewiring the new pump for 220V, if I do the following, shouldn't it supply 110V to the pump:
- Connect one of the live wires to the live terminal of the pump
- Connect the ground to both the neutral & ground terminals of the pump
- Do not connect the second live wire to anything
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-...pID=31LrTR-pVKL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
- - - Updated - - -
A follow-up question:
Instead of rewiring the new pump for 220V, if I do the following, shouldn't it supply 110V to the pump:
- Connect one of the live wires to the live terminal of the pump
- Connect the ground to both the neutral & ground terminals of the pump
- Do not connect the second live wire to anything
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,754
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
harixxxx, JamesW has you covered, but I wanted to add the following if it helps:
- While the Amazon link says the pump is pre-wired for 110, make sure. Seems odd, but I've seen two PB4-60 owners manuals that both say the motor is pre-wired for 220.
- You seem to have a 220 feed from the house, a double-breaker w/ 2 hot lines, while a 110 feed would only have one hot lead (single breaker) and the other wire being a neutral from the neutral bus bar. So unless you want to reconfigure the wiring from your panel to change that power feed to 110, I would think configuring the pump to 220 is the easiest/best route to go.
- If the pump is indeed currently configured for 110, changing it to 220 shouldn't be difficult. Just a matter of moving the white/brown wires. Take a look at THIS THREAD (post #3) from a similar discussion.
- I can’t zoom-in enough to read that Amazon motor plate diagram clearly, but the following image matches-up with that link (post) I gave you above and is from one of the pool supply stores that sell the PB4-60. See if it makes more sense to you.
As always, when in doubt, safety first! Call an electrician if you have to.
Hope that helps.
- While the Amazon link says the pump is pre-wired for 110, make sure. Seems odd, but I've seen two PB4-60 owners manuals that both say the motor is pre-wired for 220.
- You seem to have a 220 feed from the house, a double-breaker w/ 2 hot lines, while a 110 feed would only have one hot lead (single breaker) and the other wire being a neutral from the neutral bus bar. So unless you want to reconfigure the wiring from your panel to change that power feed to 110, I would think configuring the pump to 220 is the easiest/best route to go.
- If the pump is indeed currently configured for 110, changing it to 220 shouldn't be difficult. Just a matter of moving the white/brown wires. Take a look at THIS THREAD (post #3) from a similar discussion.
- I can’t zoom-in enough to read that Amazon motor plate diagram clearly, but the following image matches-up with that link (post) I gave you above and is from one of the pool supply stores that sell the PB4-60. See if it makes more sense to you.
As always, when in doubt, safety first! Call an electrician if you have to.
Hope that helps.Both 110 and 220 will use 3 wires
Generally speaking 110 will have a neutral lead and the color scheme of colors goes as:
110 - Black / White / Green
220 - Black / Red(or black again) / Green
Since your new pump is 110, just use the 2nd hot for a neutral as Texas stated. It needs to be marked with white tape inside the panel.
This is GENERALLY, but people do some weird stuff.
If this is a Sub panel that feeds the pump it may be a 220V only.
In this scenario there will be no neutral, and the ground may or may-not be bonded to the neutral at the main panel.
Connecting the neutral to the ground is not an accepted practice prior to the bus bar.
Generally speaking 110 will have a neutral lead and the color scheme of colors goes as:
110 - Black / White / Green
220 - Black / Red(or black again) / Green
Since your new pump is 110, just use the 2nd hot for a neutral as Texas stated. It needs to be marked with white tape inside the panel.
This is GENERALLY, but people do some weird stuff.
If this is a Sub panel that feeds the pump it may be a 220V only.
In this scenario there will be no neutral, and the ground may or may-not be bonded to the neutral at the main panel.
Connecting the neutral to the ground is not an accepted practice prior to the bus bar.
Thanks for all the details. Ordered the pump yesterday. Will post an update after I install it.
I got an answer on Amazon that the pump comes wired for 220, though the description says 110.
So TFP Expert - you were right.
I'll know for sure when I receive it.
So TFP Expert - you were right.
I'll know for sure when I receive it.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,754
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yeah, based on James' reply and the manuals I looked at, something smelled fishy about that description. Always good to make sure.The pump came wired for 220V.
Thought it would be a quick install, but hit a stumbling block.
Current plumbing connector does not fit the connector on the new pump - it's about 1/16" larger, so it does not grab the threads.
Can't directly use the connector from the old ao smith pump because the old pump has a 1" hole while the new one has about 1 5/16" hole.
Hopefully I can find an adapter for the new pump so I can use the connector from the old one.
Thought it would be a quick install, but hit a stumbling block.
Current plumbing connector does not fit the connector on the new pump - it's about 1/16" larger, so it does not grab the threads.
Can't directly use the connector from the old ao smith pump because the old pump has a 1" hole while the new one has about 1 5/16" hole.
Hopefully I can find an adapter for the new pump so I can use the connector from the old one.
That's odd, usually the threads on booster pumps are all standard 3/4" pipe thread.
Returned the pump and got the Polaris PB4-60. Installation was a breeze. Just reused the existing plumbing as-is.