Adding Screen Logic ( 1? or 2?) to a 5-6 year old Easy Touch 8

Jump to latest Follow Reply
D

Dan-H

0
LifeTime Supporter
May 28, 2011
198
No. CA
I'm thinking about adding a Screen Logic 2 to my existing Easy Touch 8, and was hoping someone would point me in the right direction.

It looks like there are Screen Logic and Screen Logic 2. Any versions work better or any to avoid? and will the newer one work with my older easy touch 8.

I recall reading about compatibility issues with some easy touch 8 firmware, yet could not find a solid answer to ensure my ET8 is at the correct firmware rev.

It seems like the minimum part needed is "Pentair ScreenLogic Interface Kit 520500"? Is that all plus an ethernet cable?

I always prefer wired and I'm easily within distance specs for CAT5 to my wired network.

Most everything I read references the WiFi adapter but I'm thinking I don't need wifi.

Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance...

Dan
 
Dan,

I suggest you go with P/N 522104 which includes the wireless link.. It costs the same as the 520500 and you get the wireless set up just in case... (The wireless Link is NOT Wi-Fi) You can connect by a 4-wire cable or by the wireless link, they both work the same...

I do not see anything in the instructions that says it needs some specific F/W before it can be used..

You definitely want the ScreenLogic2...

ScreenLogic makes using programming and using your EasyTouch about 10 x easier and much more fun... Below are a couple of pics just to wet your whistle.. :p

This screen allows you to adjust your IC40..

dbtgallery.php


This page allows you to set up pumps speeds for each operation...

dbtgallery.php




Thanks,

Jim R.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dan-H
I like wired myself. You can put the interface by the EasyTouch and run ethernet to it, or, like I did, you can mount the interface near your ethernet router or switch, and run a four-conductor wire to the EasyTouch, whichever works better for you. I have had to "reset" my interface once since installation, powering it down and back up again, when I lost communication. So put the interface where it's easiest to access, just in case. I use the Indoor Control Panel in addition to ScreenLogic (I hear you all laughing out there!), which also connects to the EasyTouch with the same four-conductor wire, so it made sense for my install to have the interface closer to my ethernet switch as the run was "on the way" to my Indoor Controller.

-- edit --

I have to correct myself. I'm just now realizing that I shouldn't have "powered down" the interface at the interface. It gets its power directly from the EasyTouch circuit board (when hard wired). So I should have powered down the whole EasyTouch instead, which would make for less of a chance of causing problems for the EasyTouch board, which is a very expensive part. Bad Dirk!
 
Jim, thanks for the product suggestion. This looks like it will work great. and thanks for the clarification that it is not WiFi.

Dirk, thanks for the suggestion on where to locate the protocol adapter. I wonder if there is a distance limit on the four wire connector.

It looks like they require 22 gauge 4 wire. Was thinking I can use 18 gauge sprinkler wire which I have lots of, and is already outdoor rated.

Thanks again !
 
Dan,

Some food for thought...

I used to work for a really high-end AV place that only really rich people could afford, like Oprah, Tiger Woods, etc..

We would routinely get back guest house or pool house units which had taken lightning strikes, which would blow chips right off the circuit cards... Turns out they all had unprotected cables between the main house and the out buildings... It did not seem to make much difference whether the cable was buried or in the air... The longer the cable the more likely it was to take a hit..

My panel was also wired directly to the ScreenLogic Protocol Adapter and then into my house network.. My cable is only about 20 feet long... My next door neighbor took a direct lightning strike and I got what was left over. Took out the ET's main PCB, the Protocol Adapter, the cable TV's router and all the AV equipment connected to that part of the network... I'm pretty sure the surge came in through the cable.. I have a surge protector on the power lines and it did not pop. All the damage inside the house just took out the Ethernet operations...

Just saying... :p

Jim R.
 
Jim,

I'll keep that in mind. I think I might use the wireless for a short distance, but still pull the 4 wire into my garage.

I don't want to tempt fate, but I've been in this place for 20 years, and the lighting magnets are a ridge 1500 feet to the west, and a huge metal roof on a school about 1500 feet to the east and 50 feet higher than my house.

I'll be honest, I love the lightning storms but they are pretty rare. maybe every other year we get a good one...


Thanks again.
 
The threat of a lightning strike taking out the ET via the control wire was also pointed out in the "How to do Automation" (or something like that) from this board. The author says he had to redo his entire automation system after a lightning strike.

Also, you should be able to use 18 wire as long as it fits in the terminals. 18 is a larger diameter than 22 (smaller is larger and vice versa when referring to wire gauge).
 
bizzle said:
Also, you should be able to use 18 wire as long as it fits in the terminals. 18 is a larger diameter than 22 (smaller is larger and vice versa when referring to wire gauge).
Click to expand...

Excellent point. A lot of devices all connect to the ET using the same set of terminals. At some point you crowd them out and they won't all fit. Or if they do fit, it can get funky, signal-wise, as a wire can become a bit loose in the bundle all stuffed into the same terminal. Pentair sells a kit to expand the terminals. Personally, I like to solder everything (NOT to the board, of course). If I had too many wires, I'd bundle them all up outside of the terminals, solder them together with one extra wire, cover the solder joint in shrink wrap tubing, then put just that one wire into the terminal (and save on the exorbitant cost of Pentair's extra terminal block). Most people don't know how to solder, I expect, or don't want to bother, but I find it worth the extra effort. It helps eliminate phantom problems. It's the best connection you can use to join wires, and mitigates corrosion and other things that can weaken signals.

Point was, yes, 18 wire will crowd the terminals, but if it becomes a problem down the road, there are alternate solutions...
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Dirk said:
Excellent point. A lot of devices all connect to the ET using the same set of terminals. At some point you crowd them out and they won't all fit. Or if they do fit, it can get funky, signal-wise, as a wire can become a bit loose in the bundle all stuffed into the same terminal. Pentair sells a kit to expand the terminals. Personally, I like to solder everything (NOT to the board, of course). If I had too many wires, I'd bundle them all up outside of the terminals, solder them together with one extra wire, cover the solder joint in shrink wrap tubing, then put just that one wire into the terminal (and save on the exorbitant cost of Pentair's extra terminal block). Most people don't know how to solder, I expect, or don't want to bother, but I find it worth the extra effort. It helps eliminate phantom problems. It's the best connection you can use to join wires, and mitigates corrosion and other things that can weaken signals.

Point was, yes, 18 wire will crowd the terminals, but if it becomes a problem down the road, there are alternate solutions...
Click to expand...

Dirk,

You can also use wire nuts in place of the solder which work pretty well...

When the EasyTouch has the built-in salt power supply, the power supply board has three additional comm ports... They are all connected to the J20 comm port on the main board..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Dirk,

You can also use wire nuts in place of the solder which work pretty well...

When the EasyTouch has the built-in salt power supply, the power supply board has three additional comm ports... They are all connected to the J20 comm port on the main board..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Man I want that bigger ET with the supply and breakers all built in!

Yes, wire nuts would work fine, and are certainly easier to use. I'm coming from too many years of trying to keep garden lights working, and even my phone jacks. I used to live near the ocean and physical electrical connections of all kinds just weren't happy there. So I started soldering everything instead of crimping and wire-nutting. They make wire nuts for irrigation wiring that have a goo inside them that help thwart corrosion. Those work well for exterior applications (we're talking inside an ET, or course, but I'd still consider the air inside one "outside air," surrounded by gizmos and concrete/rocks/dirt that get wet their fair share)...
 
Finally installed this yesterday.

Using wireless for now. Ran 30 feet of 18/4 sprinkler controller wire so I could locate the antenna inside my garage and closer to the protocol adapter.


Windows version of ScreenLogic2 did did not start at first. Searching, I found threads where it had to "run as administrator" the first time, and since then has been working fine.

Android App synced right up, but it seemed to be lacking features... I later looked at google play and see there is an SL config app that can do more, but I won't likely be adjusting pump speeds and circuits from my phone so it will be un-installed.

I read comments on google play that the Apple App was closer to the PC version.

So far its great. Thanks for all the advice :cheers:
 
Crazy to think... it was only about ten years ago that controlling a pool from a phone you carry around with you was not even imagined...
 
So my protocol adapter is hard wired to my ET controller and I have had 4 adapters fail in the last 4 years. The last one seemed to have failed after a nearby lighting strike. But it was the only device that failed. It's out of warranty and Pentair won't help. So now I'm thinking I might try the wireless option to see if it lasts longer.

My question is this: Is there any difference in protocol adapters? I see a part number 520489 and 520500 for the adapter. Is there any difference? My current one that's fried says 520489, but the white sticker on the side says screenlogic 2. The blue graphics on top just say screenlogic. Some of the newer protocol adapters have Screenlogic 2 in blue graphics on the top. They look identical. I'm interested in Alexa control so I didn't know if I needed the newer version or if all protocol adapters are the same as long as the firmware has been updated.

Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply