Raypak 406A Problem. Stumped

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georgygirl

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Bronze Supporter
May 16, 2011
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We have a Raypak 406A, about 6 years old. Had intermittent problems last year with it not firing up or not bringing the water up to the desired temperature.

Problems started again. After igniting once and not bringing the temperature up to desired level, it just stopped igniting. Error code reads PRS. We made sure the filter was clean and replaced the pressure valve. Didn't work.

We replaced the gas valve. Didn't work.

We replaced the pilot mechanism. You can hear the ignitor "ticking" but the pilot won't light. It did light manually and ran for a while, but did not bring the temperature up to desired level.

Next step? Circuit Board?

Also, could the transformer be bad and not putting out enough voltage? Does that happen?
 
If you know that the wires from the pressure switch to the main board are good (not chewed), check the solder connections on the board where the pressure switch wiring connects to the board (plug). Just had one last week where the pin had a bad solder joint.

Heater was about the same age as yours...
 
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Well, it didn't appear there was a problem with the connections. The error code is still PRS. Filter and pump basket are clean. What else could be clogged up to cause low pressure? Since the pilot did light manually and ran for a while and then the heater shut off again with the PRS error code, all that makes sense to me is a clog somewhere or my question about the transformer. I am not knowledgeable enough to know if that could have an affect on the pressure valve.
 
It’s a free-form, about 20 x 40, pebbletech, with attached spa. There are eyeballs in the returns. Not sure about the length of the return line. The equipment is about 15’ from the pool...level ground. Heater worked fine for 5+ years.
 
So it's 6 years old and up till now it has worked fine. Correct? The pressure switch is activated from filter pressure. If the filter is really dirty then you would have a pressure problem.

Is the filter a cartridge filter and if so, remove the cartridge. If you have a sand or DE filter, bypass the filter using your multiport valve. This will then provide free flow from pump to heater and then you can see if the heater fires. You could also bypass the pressure switch on the heater with a jumper wire and see if it fires. If you still get the PRS, then the board stands to be the issue. If for some reason there isn't enough flow of water to the heater, it will start knocking and banging. Then shut it off. then you know you have a water flow issue coming to the heater.

I suspect you have a bad control board.
 

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Thanks! I’m inclined to agree with you. Now I’m trying to decide whether to try one more part (the control board) or just go ahead and replace the heater. Decisions, decisions!
 
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