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Thread: Booster Pump Reducing Valve?

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    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    New Waverly, TX
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    Booster Pump Reducing Valve?

    So, I have an LA01N booster pump that is powered by a Century B668 motor. Both are not older than 3-4 years old (inherited this pool this past summer).
    I knew the pump was needing to be rebuilt so I bought the replacement parts for a DIY rebuild. Then right before I started this project, the motor bearings went out. So, I bought the replacement bearings. Once I took the motor apart, I realized I needed a new motor (completely corroded.....no saving this guy).
    Bought a new B668 motor and installed the pump and plumbed it up. Everything was swapped out with exactly the identical equipment. No upgrades and no issues on the build back.
    However, when I start the pump/motor, I get a slight electrical burning smell, but nothing is overheating to the point of shutting off. After noticing this smell, I have only run the pump while I'm there watching it and maybe for 15 minutes and maybe a total of 4-5 times.
    I thought maybe the windings needed to burn off that "new motor" coating? JK. But I did think maybe there was something that was needing to be burned off while it operated for the first time.
    I called Century and they said to no burning smell should come from the motor, but to check the amps. So, checked the amps and it's pulling 7.5 but is rated to pull 6.5. Called Century back and they said that the impeller is under load and I should install a reducing valve on the outflow side to help reduce this.
    Has anyone ever installed a valve to reduce the outflow of their booster pump?
    Could the impeller be bad?
    Any other ideas?
    I attached a picture of my pool equipment setup.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Constructed 2015 / 16ft x 38ft, in-ground plaster pool, 16,500 gallons / sun ledge with bubbler / flagstone perimeter coping / Inline Rainbow 320 chlorinator / 2HP Pentair Whisperflo, 520 SQFT cartridge filter / Pentair booster pump with Polaris 280 cleaner / 4 inlets / 2 skimmers and 2 deep-end returns.
    Well water fill (PH 7.0 & TA 300) / Testing kits: Taylor K-2005 and FAS-DPD

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    Re: Booster Pump Reducing Valve?

    Here’s a bump......

    surely someone has some experience with this. Or have I posted in the wrong area?
    Constructed 2015 / 16ft x 38ft, in-ground plaster pool, 16,500 gallons / sun ledge with bubbler / flagstone perimeter coping / Inline Rainbow 320 chlorinator / 2HP Pentair Whisperflo, 520 SQFT cartridge filter / Pentair booster pump with Polaris 280 cleaner / 4 inlets / 2 skimmers and 2 deep-end returns.
    Well water fill (PH 7.0 & TA 300) / Testing kits: Taylor K-2005 and FAS-DPD

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    needsajet's Avatar
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    Re: Booster Pump Reducing Valve?

    Nice to meet you via TFP. I have no direct experience with that pump, but it sounds like the ideal fix would be a lower rated impeller. Try phoning inyopools or sunplay and asking about the availability or their recommendation regarding a lower rated impeller.

    A throttling valve to restrict flow should get it done. It's just a ball valve on the outlet side, partially closed to the point where you get the correct amperage, if that's going to happen. It would be low cost to try it out.

    Sounds like it's been a bit of a headache!
    12k IG salt; glass beads in plaster; K-2006C, K-1766, K-1106 and CCL test kits; Pentair Eco800 1.2HP VS; Zodiac SWCG 1.3 lb/day (25 g/hr); 25" filter recycled glass; OKU solar panels; 1/2 HP solar pump; Rebel (Warrior) pool cleaner; FlowViz; Other family pools 10K SWCG and 15K on liquid; PoolMath app subscriber; | Tips for New Members to get the best possible advice | ... and this helped me a lot!: TFPC for Beginners

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    Re: Booster Pump Reducing Valve?

    Thanks for the reply.
    I've tried the different impeller route, and INYO Pools is exactly who i called. They could not find a different impeller. There is an impeller for an older pump, but back from 96....mine isn't that old. I'm also in discussions with Pentair hoping they can tell me more about the impeller, but I've gotten stonewalled by them.
    I think I might go the ball valve route first.

    It's just weird that all of the identical equipment was reinstalled and now I'm having an issue. Or, it might have been an issue before and I just didn't realize it. The pump and motor didn't last but 2-3 years.
    Constructed 2015 / 16ft x 38ft, in-ground plaster pool, 16,500 gallons / sun ledge with bubbler / flagstone perimeter coping / Inline Rainbow 320 chlorinator / 2HP Pentair Whisperflo, 520 SQFT cartridge filter / Pentair booster pump with Polaris 280 cleaner / 4 inlets / 2 skimmers and 2 deep-end returns.
    Well water fill (PH 7.0 & TA 300) / Testing kits: Taylor K-2005 and FAS-DPD

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: Booster Pump Reducing Valve?

    The pump does need a certain amount of resistance to operate properly. If the cleaner is attached, the resistance should be correct. There are reducer discs that can be added to the wall fitting to provide correct pressure.

    See the red and blue disc here:

    Zodiac UWF Connector Assembly (9-100-9001) - INYOPools.com

    I suspect that you probably have other issues than pressure.

    Check that the voltage is correct when the pump is on.
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  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
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    New Waverly, TX
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    Re: Booster Pump Reducing Valve?

    Great idea. Had completely forgotten about those disks. And yes, voltage is good at the timer and the motor.
    Constructed 2015 / 16ft x 38ft, in-ground plaster pool, 16,500 gallons / sun ledge with bubbler / flagstone perimeter coping / Inline Rainbow 320 chlorinator / 2HP Pentair Whisperflo, 520 SQFT cartridge filter / Pentair booster pump with Polaris 280 cleaner / 4 inlets / 2 skimmers and 2 deep-end returns.
    Well water fill (PH 7.0 & TA 300) / Testing kits: Taylor K-2005 and FAS-DPD

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    sktn77a's Avatar
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    May 2010
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    Chapel Hill, NC
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    Re: Booster Pump Reducing Valve?

    "Called Century back and they said that the impeller is under load and I should install a reducing valve on the outflow side to help reduce this."

    Typically, if this is the case, the pump would be making a lot of noise.
    Keith
    15,000 gallon in-ground gunite/plaster pool, 1.5" PVC plumbing
    1.0HP Sta-Rite DuraGlass P2R pump, Hayward S244T sand filter
    Teledyne-Laars Lite-2 250k heater, Hayward CL200 chlorinator
    Polaris 380/Hayward 6060 booster pump

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    Re: Booster Pump Reducing Valve?

    Good to know. But mine is running smooth and quiet.......thank goodness.

    And Iíll add another repair to the project as my fittings are now slightly leaking around the outflow fitting on the volute. I loaded them with tape and silicone.
    These are just threaded PVC fittings that I glue 3/4Ē pipe directly to it.

    And Pentair finally responded. There is not another impeller option......itís either the one I have or the one from 96.

    So after being in the house for a week, I knocked off the Zodiac connector while brushing the pool. I replaced it and didnít notice the color disc that was in the old one, so I just stuck one in there. The Polaris was working so I just threw the other disc away. Really.....why would I need to keep it?! Now I know why........

    So I just ordered a new Zodiac connector as Iím quite certain Iíll knock it off again soon. Then Iíll have the discs I need.
    Constructed 2015 / 16ft x 38ft, in-ground plaster pool, 16,500 gallons / sun ledge with bubbler / flagstone perimeter coping / Inline Rainbow 320 chlorinator / 2HP Pentair Whisperflo, 520 SQFT cartridge filter / Pentair booster pump with Polaris 280 cleaner / 4 inlets / 2 skimmers and 2 deep-end returns.
    Well water fill (PH 7.0 & TA 300) / Testing kits: Taylor K-2005 and FAS-DPD

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