SWCG Upgrade

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stevenfmurray

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Feb 7, 2018
28
Goose Creek, SC
Trying to figure out what combination of equipment would be best and at the same time without spending a small fortune on it. I was all set a few weeks ago to spend some cash doing this, but emergency water heater install derailed that plan and some of the cash flow.

Currently, I have an IC15 that's 5-6 years old, not making chlorine since last fall. Cell still shows 40% life remaining, but I'm pretty sure the flowswitch is bad. Either way, if I get anything other that an IC15 replacement, I would also need the power center as well. Considering the new Ichlor 30...dealer is offering it at $799 with the power center. I guess an IC 40 would be a few hundred bucks extra.

Previously, I was looking at integrating an EasyTouch since I need a power center anyway, but it was pointed out that my SuperFlo VS won't play well with it. Also, I didn't know (before finding you wonderful folks) that the SWCG be set up to completely power off when the pump does, so I'll need to do that as well with the new install. Additionally, looking to switch from sand to cartridge filter.

Suggestions welcome on what combination of equipment I should be looking for.
 
Steven,

If the only problem is the flow switch, then that a very easy DIY fix of about $100 bucks..

Why do you think you need a new Power Center??? Do you have a power supply that is in a metal box that you mount on a wall, or do you have one that looks like "brick" that powers a laptop???

Tell us what the cell lights are doing and what color, and we "might" be able to get your old cell working again..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Steven,

If the only problem is the flow switch, then that a very easy DIY fix of about $100 bucks..

Why do you think you need a new Power Center??? Do you have a power supply that is in a metal box that you mount on a wall, or do you have one that looks like "brick" that powers a laptop???

Tell us what the cell lights are doing and what color, and we "might" be able to get your old cell working again..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

For whatever reason Pentair uses a different power supply for the IC-15 than the IC-20/40/60....weird but true.

I’d forget about the iChlor (IC-30) and just go with an IC-40. There’s nothing special about the iChlor to justify its price regardless of what the marketing hype says.

You can still run/power your SuperFlo with the ET panel; it just won’t have all the feedback and remote communications that the IntelliFlo has. If you get an ET panel that’s bundled with the IC-40, then it will come with the power supply integrated into the panel and wired through the pump relay so you never have to worry about the SWG turning on without the pump.

Honestly, if your sand filter is working fine, then there’s really no need to switch to a cartridge filter. Why do you want to switch filters?
 
IMG_3317.jpg



This is the power center that I have.

I noticed that it wasn't sensing cold temps in the middle of the winter a few years ago and shutting off chlorine production. Then last season, noticed some intermittent issues where flow wasn't being detected; got really bad near the end of the season. (Cell is clean) Heard that the temp sensor is part of the flow switch, so figured it was shot. It is actually sensing flow now with a green light after adjusting pump speed a few minutes ago.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
For whatever reason Pentair uses a different power supply for the IC-15 than the IC-20/40/60....weird but true.

I’d forget about the iChlor (IC-30) and just go with an IC-40. There’s nothing special about the iChlor to justify its price regardless of what the marketing hype says.

You can still run/power your SuperFlo with the ET panel; it just won’t have all the feedback and remote communications that the IntelliFlo has. If you get an ET panel that’s bundled with the IC-40, then it will come with the power supply integrated into the panel and wired through the pump relay so you never have to worry about the SWG turning on without the pump.

Honestly, if your sand filter is working fine, then there’s really no need to switch to a cartridge filter. Why do you want to switch filters?
Click to expand...

The thought started when I got the VS pump a few years ago. Noticed that the Intellichlor doesn't detect flow unless the pump is set to at least 1450 RPMs or so, and that's when the filter has been adequately backwashed. Dealer suggested cartridge filter would not provide as much resistance and IC would probably be able to produce at lower pump settings. Not sure if there's any truth to that or not, but that's where the thought began a few years ago.

Now, last season, having to add clarifier on a fairly routine basis to keep the water completely clear, especially after heavy rains. Probably time for a sand change...it's probably been at least 4 years since it's been done....if I stick with the same filter. I'm more than willing to be talked out of buying unnecessary stuff if it won't provide any significant benefits.

Was interested in the iChlor for 2 reasons. First, the $799 that they quoted included the power center. Was going to be a few hundred more for the IC40 plus a new power center. Second, it looks like the production can be fine-tuned down to 1% increments. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the IC40 is only 20% increments unless I incorporate an EasyTouch panel. My thought was with a 13,000 pool, I may not be able to fine-tune it down to the right output.

Like I said, I'll take ANY suggestions or feedback anyone has to offer.
 
The newer Intellichlor series allows for 1% increments without the Easytouch.

1450 rpm to close switch is not bad. Mine is 1500 so I run at 1600, with a cartridge filter but with a heater. Having at least 12 inches of straight pipe prior to the flow switch really helped lower my needed rpms.

Sand does not wear out. It can get gummed up by pool store potions (like the clarifier you mentioned). You can try a deep clean. Read this Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

Take care.

Matt has the % settings right - not as fine tuned as I thought!
 
Last edited:
See this post for a chart on head loss of various different filters - Hydraulics 101 - Have you lost your head?

While a cartridge filter will have lower head loss, I don't think that is your problem. You are getting some seriously bad information from the pool "professionals" you're talking to. As you'll find out if you hang out on this site for a while, we debunk much of the nonsense that passes as "advice" from people who think they are "professionals".

The source of your filter problems is likely your use of clarifiers. Clarifiers, in a properly clean and clear swimming pool, are almost never needed. The polymeric clarifiers, with overuse, can easily clog up your sand filter and hamper it's performance. Also, filter sand almost never needs to be changed! It's hundreds of millions of years old....your pool is not going to degrade it any more than the past million years of so ;) Here's another article for you to read -

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

Deep cleaning a sand filter is a cheap, easy and effective way of restoring filter performance. If you want to "clarify" your pool water, there is also a much better way -

Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter

Adding a small amount of pool grade DE to a sand filter can effectively increase fine particle filtration and, best of all, it leaves the filter when you backwash. This way, you never have to worry about polymeric junk messing up the sand in your filter.

As for SWGs, I believe the latest generation of IntelliChlor's (2017 models and higher) have the ability to change output % in 2% increments when you go below 10%. The iChlor can certainly have fine adjust on the unit, but it's much more advantageous to oversize an SWG for a swimming pool and so the IC40 is the better choice. Paired with an ET automation panel and you get 1% increments. TFP recommends sizing an SWG 2X-3X for a swimming pool. The lower the output % used to generate chlorine means the longer it will last. All SWG cells have a finite operational lifetime (~8,000-10,000 hours). Driving them at a lower output means a lot less wear & tear. I have a 16k gallon pool with an IC40 and my output, even in the hot months, is 40% or less. When it's time to replace the cell, I'm going with an IC60. In terms of SWGs, bigger is almost always better.
 

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Wow...thank you all SO much! I'm about to go out and attempt to deep clean the filter now and see what comes out of it.

Also, thanks for the input on the SWCG choice. I would love to have an ET panel....I just can't get my head around the right combination/price differences/packages that include a new SWCG. Where does everyone here actually go to purchase this stuff?
 
You can purchase an ET/SWCG bundle from several different online providers. Inyopools regularly helps out our members with questions but there are other sellers also.

Be aware that Pentair has very poor warranties for DIY installs. They prefer you purchase and have installed their products through their network of pool professionals. Just be aware of this.

Take care.
 
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