Are SWG's really worth the hype? your experience beforevsafter, recommend type

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FLAK111

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Jan 28, 2018
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I keep reading things like, (I used to have a non-SWG pool, but since converting to a SWG i've never had algea problems for 4 years....)....and other comments like this.

I'm at a point were I had a single speed pool pump. Currently ordered a VS motor. About to convert it over, but many of the SWG comments leave me thinking its a good time to just bit the bullet and go for a SWG on my pool too.

1) Should I really expect that much "easier" maintenance over normal chemicals?

2) Whats the best bang for the buck when it comes to name/brand vs price? If getting a SWG, i would hook it up to my old school pool timer to be in sync with my VS pump (as I've read on threads). So i'm not looking for fancy SWG, just a descent brand , easy maintenance, and a cheap replacement parts.

3) Name brands with historical issues? or typically to stay away from?

thanks for any all advice and especially help w/ #2
FLAK
 
The 'easier' part of the pool maintenance is the SWCG is adding the chlorine each day. You do not have to be there to pour in your dose of liquid chlorine. You still need to monitor that the FC is in range based on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] and manage your pH, TA, etc.

If you doing a standalone system, no automation, then Circupool SWCG's are the most recommended on this forum. You will want at least a SJ/RJ 40.

Take care.
 
My 2cents

1) Exactly what Marty said with the chlorine. If you add that to good management using Pool School you can be adding chemicals much less often.

I won't comment on brands as I'm in Oz but I have one caution. With variable speed pumps, often the standard low speed does not produce sufficient flow to clear the hydrogen gas out of the cell. On mine, I am able to reprogram the speed but needed to bring it to about halfway between Low and Medium to make it work consistently. I believe some SWG manufacturers are getting wise to this and are producing cells that need less flow.

I've had 2 salt pools and an automated chlorine pool. My main reason for wanting salt now is I like swimming in the water better. It's a personal thing but I think it's easier on the eyes and just more pleasurable to be in.

Hope this helps
Mike
 
I installed a Pentair IntelliChlor IC20 6 years ago at pool build. My pool is 11,600 Gals. As Mod Squad said, it does eliminate the manual daily adds. When the system fails, I'll upgrade to an IC40. Lower settings and higher production. The IntelliChlor does require some routine maintenance to check for calcium build up on the cell fins. Not a huge deal and with mine I installed an automated acid distribution system with the acid injector installed before the Intellichlor so frequent acid distribution does assist in keeping my IntelliChlor fins clean. Adjusting your SWCG does take some time and is predicated on several factors such as temperature(water and air), bather load & frequency as well as rain or airborne contaminates in addition to maintaining to the standards in the FC/CYA Chart, again as Mod Squad mentioned in his post. One of our members(mgmoore7) built a SWG Calculator that helps with the math to determine settings. Here's the link to his post. SWG Run Time Calculator The IntelliChlor also stops producing chlorine when water temp drops to 68 degrees then requiring manual intervention. Hope this helps. Good luck!
 
One reason to monitor CSI (Calcium Scaling Index) is when you have a SWCG. By keeping CSI under 0.0, you will not build scale on the plates. You can also use borates (boric acid) to reduce the pH rise in the cell when it generates the chlorine. I keep my CSI under 0.0 and have not had to clean the cell in the 3 years it has been operating.

Your IC20 stops generating at 68F? That is the highest temp I have seen. My system shows 52F water temp when my IC40 stops producing.
 
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Sorry...typo. Here's the "quote" from the manual for all Pentair IC models. Temperature Sensor: To protect the IntelliChlor SCG from operation and potential damage when the temperature of the pool water falls below 52° F, ±3° F (11° C, ±1.67°C), the temperature sensor switches the IntelliChlor SCG off, illuminates the COLDWATER light and no chlorine will be produced.

Oh yeah and Mod Squad is spot on with the CSI monitoring feedback.
 
FLAK111 said:
I keep reading things like, (I used to have a non-SWG pool, but since converting to a SWG i've never had algea problems for 4 years....)....and other comments like this........
Click to expand...
A SWG is not a ‘magic bullet’, not having algae is the result of proper sanitation, regardless of sanitizer delivery.

As already mentioned, the ultimate convenience of a SWG is not having to go buy, store, & dose bleach manually.

I love my SWG.
 
I added one during our pool remodel over 10 years ago. I'm not sure I would do it again. The cells are costly to replace and don't reduce the need for close monitoring of your pool. Sure I don't have to add liquid chlorine, but I have to frequently add muriatic acid to offset the rising pH seen with SWG.

In the end, I still check my pool chemistry frequently. I still have to add a chemical to my pool often. Plus I have the added expense of the initial SWG cost along with the cost of cell replacement. Plus, here in Florida with our frequent summer storms, I often have to add salt to maintain proper salinity. Plus, I need to run my VS pump a bit higher than I could to maintain flow and make chlorine.
 
I installed a SWCG about 6 months ago, I really like having it, both for the feel of the water and the not having to add liquid chlorine daily, however I was not expecting to have add acid every 3 or 4 days to keep the PH in check, but heck its better than every day! :D
 

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jobybett said:
I installed a SWCG about 6 months ago, I really like having it, both for the feel of the water and the not having to add liquid chlorine daily, however I was not expecting to have add acid every 3 or 4 days to keep the PH in check, but heck its better than every day! :D
Click to expand...

If you're adding acid regularly, your TA is too high.
 
JamesW said:
If you're adding acid regularly, your TA is too high.
Click to expand...

Yup you are right, TA has been about 100 for a few months (that seems to be what my fill water is) so this week I have been dropping the PH and airating for the last 3 days... down to 60 be the end of the day, lets hope that reduces the acid add.
 
SWGs are worth it, however I will have to disagree with comments about Circupool being most recommended. Perhaps thats the case "lately" but historically has had multiple quality issues. The price point of it is attractive though, but be diligent in your product research.

There are several very good and much more reliable SWGs available.
 
i had my swg pool refinished nearly a year ago
with my ta at 60 and borates at 30, my ph has settled at 7.6
i havent had to add any chemicals since initial fill
my cell is now 6 years old and i have never had to clean it and it still looks pretty good
it is making me complacent however as i only test every week or two now
 
Thank you all. sincerely appreciate it. I have much to learn, but it seems like its best to get a SWG thats 2x the size of my pool and so many other factors to figure into model and price.
i'm thinking about the https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/calimar-cmarsct60-7y-titanium-salt-chlorine-generator/153524p1 based on the 7yr warranty, 2.25lbs per day production, self cleaning, see through casing for visual inspection. It has a water flow rate sensor, per its manual https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/Products/Manuals/153524_20155136440.pdf

------Water Fault. When illuminated, the flow sensor has detected no water flowing. Thedisplay will read “No Flow”. The system will have stopped producing chlorine as asafety measure. Severe low salt conditions will also activate the “Water Fault”warning light.

So I wonder if that means if my VS pump is too low for chlorine production, it will stop producing?

Question: since looking at a larger system 60,000 gal which produces a higher chlorine rate per day, would it be safe to assume, since my pool is about 23K gallons, it would mean the salt cell would last longer since it would be used less? in essence I would not have to buy one every year?

***my variable speed V-Green 165 motor arrived at my house, my salt water pump seal kit arrives next week. Hence I want to find the system to get it all done in one shot in the next 2 weeks.

even though i'm looking at this model, i'm still open to suggestions, warnings, and other comments...please feel free to speak your opinions :)
 
F,

Most Salt Systems have some type of flow sensor or switch... With a VS pump you will need to run it at an RPM that will turn on the sensor or close the switch. The exact RPM will depend on all your equipment and plumbing.. Mine closes at about 1100 RPM, so I run it at 1200 RPM just to make sure..

The sensor or flow switch is a Secondary safety device... in theory, you still need a Primary safety device that removes the power from the system when the pump is off..

Not sure why you think you will need to replace the cell each year??? A cell should last a good five years or longer.. In most cases, the bigger the cell the longer they last.

I have not heard of the cell you linked... That does not make it a bad choice, just not a lot of feedback here on TFP...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I just looked up the Compu Pool BBB review: https://www.bbb.org/central-florida.../compupool-products-usa-in-apopka-fl-32752533

its got a pretty solid "F" rating. ugh. I will be not getting it even though its very very intreguing to buy.

- - - Updated - - -

Jimrahbe said:
F,

Most Salt Systems have some type of flow sensor or switch... With a VS pump you will need to run it at an RPM that will turn on the sensor or close the switch. The exact RPM will depend on all your equipment and plumbing.. Mine closes at about 1100 RPM, so I run it at 1200 RPM just to make sure..

The sensor or flow switch is a Secondary safety device... in theory, you still need a Primary safety device that removes the power from the system when the pump is off..

Not sure why you think you will need to replace the cell each year??? A cell should last a good five years or longer.. In most cases, the bigger the cell the longer they last.

I have not heard of the cell you linked... That does not make it a bad choice, just not a lot of feedback here on TFP...

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I thought a cell was a yearly cost. I definitely miss understood that.
 
SWCG's are typically good for ~10000 hours of generating time. So a larger cell will last longer. I would suspect a number of years depending on your chlorine consumption. You can guesstimate using Effects of Adding Chemicals.

Be aware that the SWCG water flow sensor is a SECONDARY safety device. You must have a primary disconnect so the SWCG is not receiving electrical power when the pump is off. Automation handles that for you - but - as you will not have automation - you will need to have a timer for your SWCG to ensure it is not powered on when the pump is not running.

SWCG's can explode if they happen to be on and generating without water flow through them.
 

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