Please help provide a little direction with my black algae!

[chadclement1]

I built my pool at the end of the summer, and did little maintenance trough the winter, I thought if it looked good, the chemicals were good. I had very little FC and CC, and I figured if it starts to turn green, I will bump it up. I just realized my SWG was not even on, it read a % but it had to also say chlorinating , It wasn't a big deal because the pool looked great, I now can see that mistake.

Just recently, as the weather is heating up I noticed a few very small black spots, and did some research, decided not to use the copper I bought (thank you), and had a little success with rubbing a puck on some spots, but brushing alone does nothing, so I think it is black algae. I checked my salt which was 1400ppm and got that to 2500ppm, raised my FC and CC to over 20 (off my charts). I have been here a few days, scrubbing just the spots with wire brush 1x a day with little results. My CYA is low, less than 5. Im not sure about the CYA, I understand it helps keep the chlorine, but the charts make it seem like it lessens the efficacy of the chlorine killing power? Im thinking a low cya and high FC/CC will be best until algae is gone, but I may not be able to keep FC/CC levels high, but I do have SWG, and its on now, lol.


Can I get a little direction on the CYA until algae is gone?
Should I get my FC and CC to 40?

I bought the Taylor 2005 kit, but do I need the 2006 kit? The 2005 was 2x as much and has more bottles, I could of sworn that was the kit that was recommended.

Thanks!

 

[Jimrahbe]

Chad,

Welcome to TFP... A great place to find the answers to all your algae questions, no matter what your "springs" are called...

Salt systems are of little valve when fighting algae, you need to be using Liquid chlorine or just plain old bleach..

While fighting algae it is best to keep your CYA low...

Here is a good link to getting rid of Black algae... Pool School - Black Algae

The Taylor test kit does not have an accurate way to test FC levels above 5... What you need is a FAS/DPD test which works on a change in color and not a color match system.. It reads FC levels up to 50 ppm.

Read the link and ask more questions...

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[chadclement1]

Salt systems are of little valve when fighting algae

Jim R.

So I should turn my SWG off? What is the difference between the chlorine my swg creates and bleach?

​

 

[mknauss]

There is no difference. But a SWCG is designed to Maintain your FC at the target level based on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].

A SLAM to fight algae needs a large dose of chlorine and must be replenished often, typically several times each day. A SWCG cannot do that.

We typically recommend turning off your SWCG if you are doing a SLAM Process.

 

[Jimrahbe]

So I should turn my SWG off? What is the difference between the chlorine my swg creates and bleach?

​

Chad,

Salt cells are not made to produce a lot of chlorine really fast... Basically, the little chlorine they put produce would be consumed by the algae before it can get high enough to have any effect...

It won't hurt anything to leave it on, it just won't make a lot of difference..

There is no real difference between the chlorine generated by a SWCG and by dumping in bleach..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[cfherrman]

The 2006c is what's recommend (or tf100), your fine just need to order the fas-dpd portion of the test kit.

Cya under 20 cannot be measured, you do need cya otherwise your will never have fc from the sun. Add 30 ppm worth.

Cc is bad and a sign of trouble, I think you are thinking of tc?

Get fas-dpd -> add cya -> retest cya -> slam pool, use fc/cya chart -> enjoy

 

[chadclement1]

I have had my FC up around 30 for a week now, and plan to keep it there for a while. I have had some success with the metal brush, but only what I can reach by hand, seems like I can't get enough pressure with the pole. I might have to wait till it warms up a bit to get in the pool.

I am starting to think that some of the black marks are from my dolphin. I was able to re-create some 12" black marks fairly easily with it by rubbing it on its edge where the plastic covers the corners. Only thing was it was easily removed. Maybe I will do another test and leave it there for a week and see if it is still easily removed. I can't find many reports of black marks caused by pool cleaners. That is where 95% of the marks are in the corners, and steps.

 

[HiddenRiver]

I have had my FC up around 30 for a week now, and plan to keep it there for a while. I have had some success with the metal brush, but only what I can reach by hand, seems like I can't get enough pressure with the pole. I might have to wait till it warms up a bit to get in the pool.

I am starting to think that some of the black marks are from my dolphin. I was able to re-create some 12" black marks fairly easily with it by rubbing it on its edge where the plastic covers the corners. Only thing was it was easily removed. Maybe I will do another test and leave it there for a week and see if it is still easily removed. I can't find many reports of black marks caused by pool cleaners. That is where 95% of the marks are in the corners, and steps.

Don’t give up! It took us 3 weeks of FC at 30. My arms were killing me. I almost gave up hope. You will get there if diligent with chlorine levels and then don’t let it go below 10 for the season. That is my recommendation as it worked for us. As for your robot be sure that it has also been well treated with chlorine since it could harbor some spores along with the brushes and anything else you might use to clean the pool.