Wrong plaster installed

Jump to latest Follow Reply
K

KJpool13

0
Jan 12, 2018
4
Gonzales LA
Hi everyone! I've been lurking for a while and finally need to make my first post.

We have a new construction pool and chose to go with the Diamond Brite finish. We chose the "pearl" color from the Diamond Brite line but the pool company sent the Ultra Pearl Brite in the "pearl white" color and the sub installed it. When we got home yesterday to check it out, I noticed immediately that it wasn't correct. Our PB is reputable and we've known them for years, so they are going to make this right.

They've given us two options. 1 is that we keep the Ultra Pearl Brite in the pearl white color and not pay for the product (saving us $1,200). Option 2 is that they drain the pool, chip away all of the wrong plaster and redo the job with the right plaster and we pay the $1,200 that we were going to initially pay.

My question is: has anyone ever used the Ultra Pearl Brite line from SGM? The product seems to be inferior to the Diamond Brite, but they don't give very much info on it on their website.


We honestly don't know what to do. The plaster is just a plain white color with some small gray flecks. I'm unsure if those will get bigger over time as we brush because they aren't the quartz aggregates like the Diamond Brite has. The Diamond Brite pearl that we chose had much bigger rocks in it, so the look is definitely different. Not terrible looking of course, but not what we had expected. I'm going to attempt to attach pictures of the pearl brite pearl white vs the sample of the DB pearl that we wanted.
pearlbrite.jpg
pearlsample.jpg
 
Those two products are completely different and so the finished pool will not look the same. I’d have it chipped out and redone with what I want. You were going to pay the $1,200 originally anyway as part of the contract.

You’re not paying for any labor, right?
 
All depends on what you can live with. If you're fine with the wrong plaster, take the $1,200 and spend it on pool furniture. But if it's gonna make you sick at your stomach every time you look at it -- and it is a pretty significant difference -- make 'em redo it. After all, you're gonna have to live with it for the next 10-20 years, and $1,200 is not that much considering the (likely) overall cost of your pool, which you want to be perfect. Good luck.
 
So if I understand, you can live with the wrong finish and save $1200, or have them make it right for no extra money than you would have paid anyway. To me it's a no-brainer,...make it right. Otherwise, you'll be stuck with the wrong finish long after that $1200 savings is written off and forgotten.

There's a reason you chose that finish in the first place.
 
Make it right! You had planned this far along for that plaster, do not settle. If it were to happen to me I would be asking them to make it right plus some lol. Doubt that you would get the plus some but it doesn't hurt to ask right? Anyways get the pool your planned to pay for. On the flip side its your pool! If you could honestly live with it...take the money back. There is no shame in that.
 
They're not even remotely similar. The interior that was applied looks like plaster and the original sample mini pebble. It's not just the colour it's the surface difference between the two. I would have it replaced. For the overall cost of the pool it's not worth the small saving of sticking to an interior you didn't want.
 
I agree with everyone else, get it re-done!

I had just my spa re-plastered last year, the PB ordered the wrong plaster, but swore black and blue that the new plaster would closely match what the rest of the pool looks like, it does not... and every time I see it, I get annoyed that I let them get away with it, but its totally my fault for agreeing to it.
 
It sounds to me like your pool builder is highly ethical, and I think the options offered are very reasonable. If it was me, I would have them chip it out and redo it in the plaster you originally wanted for the price you originally agreed to. I think your original choice looks much better. But having choices is always good.
 
i would have it chipped out. i have diamond brite. i really like it so far. we just didn't want plain white, but my wife didn't want the feel of pebble so that's why we ended up where we are at. i would chip it out. 1200 is nothing in the whole picture of what u spent anyway, plus it was part of ur budget to begin with.

jim
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
We had a similar issue and had them re-do the plaster, and actually used the opportunity to upgrade the finish at a greatly reduced price since we didn't really like our original choice. Worked out great.

We also had the PB reimburse us for refilling the pool since we knew what it cost to originally fill it, and since we had already done landscaping and grass, made sure we got in writing that they would put everything back to how we had it because the plasterers made a mess with the grass and some bushes.
 
Thanks everyone. Sorry I haven't been back on here...we've been on vacation so the wrong plaster stayed on hold for a while. Looking at it now, it doesn't make that much of a difference to us. It isn't bugging us at all so we're leaning toward keeping it. Our problem now is with the water chemistry. We were going to make a decision on plaster once we saw the water color but we haven't been able to get that right yet. It's a lot more difficult than I anticipated!
 
Post up your questions on water chemistry. Members here are pretty good at helping you troubleshoot! Hopefully you have your own test kit, the Taylor K2006C or the TF100. If not, order one now. You will have a very difficult time getting your water chemistry under control without it!

Take care.
 
Who’s responsible for the plaster startup? Plaster startup processes vary but, typically speaking, the first 28 days requires very frequent adjustments to pH with a close eye kept on the alkalinity and calcium hardness. No chlorine should have been added for the first 24-48 hours and then the FC should have been maintained to keep algae away. No salt should added to the water prior to 28 days after plaster application. The plaster surface needs to be brushed at least twice per day to dislodge plaster dust and the filter should be monitored daily for pressure rise and either rinsed or backwashed as-needed.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Who’s responsible for the plaster startup? Plaster startup processes vary but, typically speaking, the first 28 days requires very frequent adjustments to pH with a close eye kept on the alkalinity and calcium hardness. No chlorine should have been added for the first 24-48 hours and then the FC should have been maintained to keep algae away. No salt should added to the water prior to 28 days after plaster application. The plaster surface needs to be brushed at least twice per day to dislodge plaster dust and the filter should be monitored daily for pressure rise and either rinsed or backwashed as-needed.
Click to expand...

My husband and I are and we're learning slowly. It's obvious I should've learned water chemistry before startup but I'm late to the game and am paying for it! I've read the ABCs of water chemistry on here and somewhat understand it. We have a Taylor kit on order and should be here tomorrow or Wednesday. We plastered last Monday, filled that evening through the night, and did add chlorine Wednesday per our PB. We are brushing twice per day and are testing with our little Pentair kit that came with the pool.
So, our water had been green for a few days and the PB came by and put metal out in it Friday evening. By Saturday morning it was a beautiful blue color, and all readings seemed to be in the normal range according to the Pentair test kit. By Sunday morning (a day later) we had a green pool again. When we tested Sunday (yesterday) we were showing chlorine of at least a 3 (the test didn't go higher than that). pH was also 7.8. Today we brought a sample to the local pool store to test since we don't have our Taylor kit yet and here are the results.
TC 0
FC 0
CC 0
pH 7.8
Acid demand 2
TA 125
Calcium 90
Stabilizer 10
Salt 300
They checked metals and said they were "low".

We know we need to add Chlorine but I'm cautious now because I don't fully understand it all and don't want to mess it up.

- - - Updated - - -

mknauss said:
Post up your questions on water chemistry. Members here are pretty good at helping you troubleshoot! Hopefully you have your own test kit, the Taylor K2006C or the TF100. If not, order one now. You will have a very difficult time getting your water chemistry under control without it!

Take care.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll post there. We do have the K2006C ordered. Hoping for it to be here tomorrow or Wednesday
 
I would only act on what you can test. Keep your FC at 3 and your pH in the 7's.

It would be great if you could add details to a signature. Really helps us understand what we are giving advice on. See Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

Be ready to add calcium and stabilizer. in Louisiana I suspect calcium will only be available from a pool store. Stabilizer (CYA) should be available at Walmart, Home Depot, etc.
 
mknauss said:
I would only act on what you can test. Keep your FC at 3 and your pH in the 7's.

It would be great if you could add details to a signature. Really helps us understand what we are giving advice on. See Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

Be ready to add calcium and stabilizer. in Louisiana I suspect calcium will only be available from a pool store. Stabilizer (CYA) should be available at Walmart, Home Depot, etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help! I've updated my signature with what I know. I'll have to get model numbers this afternoon.
 
Great start on the signature.

For help on knowing amounts to add be sure to use PoolMath. Link at the top of the page or download the App!

Take care.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply