Wish I would have found this forum before startup.

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JameyG

JameyG

0
Bronze Supporter
Feb 9, 2018
25
Orlando, FL
Hi everyone! I really wish I would have found this forum before I started up my pool. I can already tell I have done some things wrong based on what I found here in the Pool School --> New Startup thread.


The background is I just built my pool (filled on 2/9) and GC’d it myself rather than going through a pool builder. All the subs were great for the most part, and even though the finish is looking great thus far with most all of the dust gone (black exposed aggregate), the finish guy isn’t giving me much support in the start up, so I have a lot of questions. He basically dumped in a bunch of muriatic acid and said he’ll come back in a few weeks, which doesn’t sound right to me.


What I have done so far:


- First things first, not really a question, but I just ordered the Taylor K-2006c, and as a homebrewer, I am not a stranger to water chemistry, so looking forward to sponging up all this new knowledge!


- I’m in Orlando so it’s already getting hot out. The “pool store” guy has recommended that I dump 4 lbs of Suncoast dichlor shock (did 2 lbs on Saturday and 2 more yesterday) as well as drop 2 chlorine tabs in my skimmer just to get something in there to protect from algae growth before I can start adding the salt on the 28 day mark. Based on this forum's Startup thread, it seems I was given bad information.


I have fairly iron heavy well water, and added 2 bottles of Jack’s Magic - Magenta on the fill, and the water looks pretty clear albeit still a little tinge of yellow but getting better.


- Pump was running for 72 hours straight at 2500 speed after the fill per recommendation from my finish guy, yesterday was the first time I turned it off (it was off from 11pm - 7am) and now I have it running 10 hours a day from 7am - 5 pm until I get the chemistry right.

Questions:


1. Is what I am doing with the pump ok? How long of a duration should I be running it during the first 30 days?


2. pH is still hovering around 6.8 from the acid startup.
a: Since the dust is pretty much gone (still a bit in the floor of the spa) I should start adding soda ash to bring up the pH, or keep it like it is until every bit of dust is gone? It's only been 4 days since the finish was plastered. I wasn't sure if the need to be acidic was solely to dissolve the dust, or part of a longer curing process.


b: Should I be trying to balance all aspects of the chemistry this early on, or just pH and chlorine? Guy at pool store said the aggregrate shedding will wreak havoc on the chemistry for a few weeks anyways, so it will be tough to get a true view of what is going on.

I know it was long, thanks for reading.
 
BattleOfYakima said:
Do you already have the K2006C in hand or is it on the way? Do you have a basic test kit right now or is the 6.8 ph reading from the pool store?
Click to expand...

Ordered it off Amazon, it will be here Thursday. 6.8 was from the pool store.

I guess my main question can be boiled down to how long to wait after starting up a brand new pool before even trying to balance the chemistry. And I'm sure the answer is "it depends." :p
 
JameyG, since you ran this project on your own, your first course of action might be to contact your plaster sub. Make sure they don't have any specific start-up requirements that may void any warranty from them. You already saw our TFP start-up page, so you have a basic understanding. Make sure to look at our TFP Recommended Chemicals and Recommended Levels (links below) to keep you straight. While you have an SWG, you won't be using it for about 30 days - or at least shouldn't. :wink: So make sure to reference the Non-SWG pool FC and CYA levels on that Chlorine/CYA Chart.

Lastly, since you already know you have iron, make sure to stay on top of that with Magic Jack's. I'd be careful about trying to do too much chemically until your K-2006C arrives, but just know that pools with iron seem to do better with a lower pH. Not below 7.0, but in the low 7s. High FC levels seem to aggravate iron, so in time when the SWG is on, the lower FC level should be a plus. Stay with our TFP references and let us know if you have anymore questions. We'll be happy to help as much as we can.
 
Hi there Jimmy :handwave:

You mention putting chlorine pucks in to your skimmer. If you do that you need to keep your pump running all the time. If you don't, the water in the skimmer gets super acidified from the pucks. Then when you start up the pump again all that acidic skimmer water gets pushed thru your pump and its hard on the gaskets/rings and pump itself.

If you're using the pucks to help raise your CYA, you might already be there? Can't know until you get your test kit, but you don't want to overshoot if at all possible.
I would suggest using liquid bleach until your SWG is up and running.

Being that you're in FL, your frequent rains can help your iron situation. If you're expecting a big rain you can drop your pool level an inch or so and let the rain top it up. Over time this might really add up and take out a mess of iron! :goodjob:

Congrats on the new pool!

Maddie :flower:
 
Thanks everyone! Kit should be waiting on me when I get home. I'm excited to test it and get to balancing. Have pool math app setup and ready to go. I have the info from the sub (just got it yesterday). Seems easy enough based on what I've read in here.

more to come soon!
 

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Great!

Can't read that attachment - except that it sort of looks like a Pool store test result page.

We will believe your results. Post them up when you can!
 
From what little I can read on that attachment, which actually appears to just be a list of recommended ranges, I'd say don't ever bother looking at that piece of paper ever again.

For one, (when I magnify it a lot) it shows the recommended range of Free Chlorine to be 1-3ppm and the recommended range for Total Chlorine being 1-3ppm. This is extremely misleading, you want Free Chlorine to be appropriate for your CYA level, but let's forget that for a second for the sake of argument. Since Total Chlorine (TC) = Free Chlorine (FC) + Combined Chlorine (CC), the recommended ranges here would suggest that a FC level of 1ppm with a Combined Chlorine of 2ppm is just fine; it is not. You want FC to be dependent on CYA level and you want CC to be zero or very close to zero.
 

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Ok, the results are in!

FC = 4.2
CC = .4 (?) Was definitely light pink, but went colorless after 2 drops.
pH = 6.9 (taylor 2006c kit starts at 7, but I only needed 2 drops of the base demand test to bring it to 7 or 7.2, kinda hard to tell the colors shades perfectly. Haven't added soda ash yet.)
TA = 60 - I added 5 lbs 14 oz of baking soda per pool math to bring it to 80. I want to keep the pH on the lower side a bit longer since it's a brand new plaster.
CH = 350-400 - I got sick of adding one drop at a time and swirling, so around 25, I started going to 3 drops, then by 35, I added 5 and it went blue, so it's between 35 - 40 drops. I know this isn't perfect, but I'll use the smaller 10mL water sample next time so I know what I'm getting into. This was my first set of tests.
CYA = 0 - This test kinda sucks. Black dot was clear as day, but this makes sense, it's a brand new fill. I did add 2 pucks to the skimmer a week ago per the pool store guy, that was before I found this site, but I guess that wasn't enough to tick the meter up.

CSI appears to be getting calculated at -.78. Not sure if this is good or bad.


Here is a pic of the pool. Still have to do final grade and some landscaping.

IMG_0212.jpgIMG_0194.jpg
 
Some things you'll want to do quickly..
- CYA (stabilizer). New water has zero, and you want at least 30 ppm in there - treating your pool as a non-SWG for now (about 30 days probably). You'll increase CYA to 70 later, but use the sock-soaking method to soak some granular stabilizer for a target of 30. Make sure to suspend it away from the plaster.
- Increase FC to about 3 for now (regular bleach), then test daily. Once the stabilizer is in, keep the FC steady at about 4-5, never below 2. When you increase CYA higher and start the SWG, remember to adjust the FC demand accordingly based on the Chlorine/CYA Chart.
- Your PH should climb quickly with both new plaster, spill-overs, and the TA you just bumped-up. I would re-test the pH tomorrow before adding anything else and see what you get. If it's at 7.0-7.2, I'd leave it because it will climb quickly. I wouldn't increase TA any further either.

Now check with your plaster folks just to make sure they didn't have any specific requirements for your warranty, but if not, those would be my recommendations. Congrats on the pool!
 
When you said increase the FC to 3 though I didn't understand. It's currently at 4.2.
Click to expand...
Oops. My mistake. :hammer: My bad eyes sight saw .4 for some reason. Don't ask me why. Probably the same reason my wife says I don't listen to what she just said. :blah:

Have a nice weekend.
 
you can use the instructions on the test kit for the smaller water sample, like FC using 10ml for example. You do the math a little different, and it saves you drops! FC, CH, and TA all have lower sample size options - use them unless you ever have a need for a more specific measurement.

4 lbs of Suncoast dichlor shock (did 2 lbs on Saturday and 2 more yesterday) as well as drop 2 chlorine tabs in my skimmer
Click to expand...
those will have added a little CYA, you can use the bottom part of pool math with your pool size in gallons to see how much, or just add 30 CYA now anyways - which is totally good enough.

Pour the bleach in slowly right in front of the jet bringing water back from the pump - that way it gets diluted & circulated real fast! If you have multiple returns, whichever points towards the deep end or more water in general.

Questions?
 
kimkats said:
I am going to share a set of links I put together for new pool owners. This way most of the major links are all in one place for you to see.

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

PoolMath

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

Kim:kim:
Click to expand...




Thanks everyone, you've all been awesome! Kim, i've been reading this site, especially those articles over the last week like I'm cramming for finals! :) I feel pretty good about it at this point. Latest readings look really good.

FC: 3
pH: 7.2
TA: 75

I have some CYA on order from Amazon, plan on getting that straightened out as soon as it gets here, but water is clear and kids give it a jump in today, even at 68 degrees!
 
LOL on the kids jumping in..................."But I'm not cold" as their teeth chatter and lips turn blue!

When you get the CYA add it the using a sock or two. What you do is put it in a sock like you wear and hang it from something like a broom handle in front of a return so that it does not touch the side of the pool. You or the kids can squeeze the sock to help speed it up. Once it is all dissolved wait until the next day to do the test as it has to mix all in good.

I have a FUN thing for the kids! When it is time to add the salt make sure the kids are suited up so they can enjoy "diamond day". They can swim while you throw in the salt! It is SO pretty while it sinks down in the water. The kids swimming and playing will help mix it up good in the water.

Kim:kim:
 

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