Next project - pool equipment pad and replumb

Jump to latest Follow Reply
M

MasterTinkerer

0
Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2016
231
Helena, AL
Hot tub rebuild complete, now it’s time to start on the pool. The previous home owner has the pump and filter sitting on a plastic base... time to rip it up and pour a proper pad. While I’m at it, I plan to replumb all of the above ground stuff. (The top is off of the filter because it is getting rebuilt too... took it apart today and the spider gasket is shot - no wonder I was getting so much junk in the Polaris screen)

Recommendations?

329442bed32a47293b699e7396ca2544.jpg


8e0db8a1ad135188a4724c3e8544630a.jpg
 
Here are a few questions I have right now...

1) how thick of a concrete pad should I make? (I intend to use the stuff in a bag)

2) there are currently check valves on the vertical sections of the suction side - are they needed? If yes, recommended type or brand? Im guessing that the pump is around 4-5’ above the pool - picture below

3) recommended valves? Looks like the current is the local hardware 1.5” ball valve

20ab7601f18d22727033e13ef51b0a7b.jpg
 
b,

I would install a standard 3 1/2" base... Basically a 2x4 frame filled with concrete. I like to use this... Maximizer 80 lb. Concrete Mix-MAX80 - The Home Depot

In a well operating system you should not need the check valves, but no matter what, I would remove the existing ones. If you decide to replace them I would only use one Jandy check valves in line with the pump.

I would get rid of the ball valves and use Jandy three way valves. You would need one in front of the pump to select between the two pipes that are there now..

You would need two Jandy three way valves on the return side.

I am assuming your spa/hot tub is a standalone unit, not part of your pool/equipment..

And... since I'm spending your money... :p I would think about upgrading to a VS or at least a 2-speed pump.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Yeah... I have also been thinking about the pump. Saw this today as I was searching... http://www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352062872.htm. Not sure yet.

The spa is stand alone. There are two suction lines... one from the skimmer and one from the main drain, I run them both wide open. What's the advantage of a 3-way valve over putting 2-way valves back in?

On the pressure side, I think that I'm going to take out the chlorinator. I don't use it since converting over to the TFP methods.

There are 3 lines on the pressure side... one going to the two jets, one going to the Polaris (come back to that in a minute), and one going to a line for the slide that is no longer there and the line is capped off.

Regarding the Polaris, it works fine with the single speed pump... if I switch to a 2-speed, then I'm going to have to get a booster pump... so will I really be saving any electricity? That leads to the next obvious money spending thought - replace the Polaris with a robot. But I haven't been able to convince myself to drop a thousand bucks or more into the pool right now (between the robot and a new pump) - I want a new mountain bike first ;)
 
bakrbj said:
Yeah... I have also been thinking about the pump. Saw this today as I was searching... http://www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352062872.htm. Not sure yet.

The spa is stand alone. There are two suction lines... one from the skimmer and one from the main drain, I run them both wide open. What's the advantage of a 3-way valve over putting 2-way valves back in?

On the pressure side, I think that I'm going to take out the chlorinator. I don't use it since converting over to the TFP methods.

There are 3 lines on the pressure side... one going to the two jets, one going to the Polaris (come back to that in a minute), and one going to a line for the slide that is no longer there and the line is capped off.

Regarding the Polaris, it works fine with the single speed pump... if I switch to a 2-speed, then I'm going to have to get a booster pump... so will I really be saving any electricity? That leads to the next obvious money spending thought - replace the Polaris with a robot. But I haven't been able to convince myself to drop a thousand bucks or more into the pool right now (between the robot and a new pump) - I want a new mountain bike first ;)
Click to expand...


b,

I would use a single three way valve because you only need one of them to select between the Skimmer and/or the Main Drain. You can use two valves if you want, it just does not make sense to me as you now have two possible points of failure rather than just one..

Most people run their Main Drain at 10% and their Skimmers at 90% (of total flow)... But whatever works for you, works for me..

I don't have a Pressure side cleaner, but my understanding is that the 360 can operate without a booster pump.. If this is true, then a 2-speed pump on high should run your cleaner just fine without a booster pump.. Basically what you have now. The advantage of a 2-speed pump would be that you would only need to run on high when you wanted the cleaner to run.. otherwise you could run on low.

As far as Robots and Mountain Bikes go... I live it North Texas where our mountains are about 10 feet high.. A Mountain Bike would be worthless here... :p

I love my VS pump, but if they have a downside it is all the electronics that make them work... If I were to buy a 2-speed pump, it would not have any electronics.. Just a simple timer/switch that would allow me to run low speed or high speed..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
OK... bought a pair of Jandy 3-way valves. Will use one on the suction side and one on the pressure side to feed the Polaris and return jets... will Tee off of the pressure side and put in another pipe with a ball valve for the slide that's not in use.

Next question - what about unions? Worthwhile to put one just above ground level on the lines so they can be taken out if/when needed or just hard plumb everything?

I've got mixed feelings on it... just one more place to leak water... and it could always be added later if I have to cut through one of the lines for any reason.
 
b,

I think it should be "illegal" to install a pump without pump unions... :p

These are not unions that you buy at home depot, but unions that are made for pumps. They have a O-Ring between the pump body and the pump meaning you don't have to rely on the threaded connection that almost always leak over time...

They look like this.... Custom Molded 21063-200-000-2PK Union Threaded 2 inch MPT x 2 inch Slip for IntelliFlo, 2 Pack

You can get them at other places, but the link above has better pictures...

For me anyway, they make installing a pump much easier...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Leave some space in the return piping for a salt water chlorine generator...someday you’ll get one and then you’ll kick yourself for not converting sooner ;)

Heater? Solar? Either of those strike your fancy....
 
B,

I don't see any reason for ground level unions, but whatever works for you, works for me...

And, to go along with what Matt says above... I will never, ever, have another pool unless it is a saltwater pool... :p

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Oh, and I would ditch the pressure cleaner for a robot. I switched to a robot last season from 4 previous years running a suction cleaner, and it was SO WORTH IT!

You can convert the pressure cleaner port to another return line.
 
Thanks for the input. I have a robot in the Amazon cart - just can’t get myself to pull the trigger (yet).

Haven’t really thought much on the SWG. Based on the TFP methods, it isn’t much effort to keep everything balanced, so the thought doesn’t cross my mind often.

Regarding the heater (or solar)... I’ve thought of it as well. Remains a $ decision now. For some reason I seem to be able to find too many things to do with it [emoji16]
 
Adding liquid chlorine EVERY DAY (even while on vacation, long weekends away, etc) is great -- but the SWCG does that for you. So your choice ....................

Take care.
 
Well, at the very least, stub out connections and a bypass loop for a "potential" solar or heater/heatpump install. That way, when the Magic Money Fairy visits (she boycotts my home for some reason :scratch: ), it's an easy drop-in installation.

Jug dumping gets old...everyone has their tolerance but eventually it will exhaust you ;-) Actually, look at Stenner pump automatic liquid chlorine dosing. You can fill a 15 gallon container with liquid chlorine and then have the Stenner dose your pool on a schedule. They can be controlled either simply using a mechanical timer or through a more complicated automation system. Price-point for equipment and install is typically under $500 as opposed to an SWG that might run you closer to $1,000 or more.
 
bakrbj said:
Finally not raining and off of work at the same time! Any recommendations on concrete pad size? I’m thinking 4’ by 3’ based on the space that I have.
Click to expand...

B,

The bigger the better in my mind, but I would never have the pipes coming up through the concrete...

I like a little room between each piece of equipment when possible.

I suspect 4' by 3' will be fine, just hard to tell based on pics... :p

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
B,

I have a sign in my workshop that says.... "Dad can fix anything with Duct Tape".. :p

I agree with Matt that an adapter would be better, but the tape is just to keep the dirt out of the pipe, there should not be any leakage issues...

Does the corrugated pipe lead out to the street or ???

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply