New to BBB- have tf-100 and need help

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J

jilspool

0
Jul 24, 2009
20
Northern CA
After using 3" chlorine tabs for years I decided this week to switch to the BBB method. My pool has been cloudy and I could see algae starting. I pulled out my floaters of tabs on Tuesday and added liquid Bleach, not sure what level was at time, because my test kit only tested to 5.
I just got my tf-100 today and had question about CH test. After adding R-11L, the water turned a dark pink (not red) and then when adding R-12 one drop at time it went from pink to clear but never blue. It took 15 drops to go to clear, so do I read that as CH 150??


Here are my other readings.
Pool green and cloudy, I adding Liquid chlorine yesterday.
Temp. 78
FC 18
CC 0
TC 18
PH 7.5
TA 120
CH 150 (not sure on this one)
CYA 120

So I know I need to drain off water to lower cya. I will start that later today.
I am aerating pool by running my spa to lower TA.

Is my CH correct? Is reading correct or is chlorine level throwing it off.
 
Hi, Jil,

All your numbers are workable with one exception. Your CYA is very, very high and is, in an indirect way, responsible for your algae.

Sooner or later (and I hope you do it sooner) you need to drain and refill 50% of your pool water to get your CYA down to 60 or less, if possible.

Yes, drain and then refill. There is no other practical way to do it.

Your CYA is so high it has rendered your chlorine ineffective and unable to kill the algae that's developed in your pool.

The CYA has to be your first priority. If, for some reason, you simply cannot do the drain/refill, post back and we'll devise a work-around but the answer ultimately will always be to reduce your CYA to 60 or below and everything will get easier from that point.
 
The high FC level is affecting the CH test, but the results are still usable. Your CH level is indeed around 150. What the instructions call red, most people call pink. Anything in the red/pink range is fine. As you add drops, you are really looking for a color change, it doesn't really matter what the final color is. You simply keep adding drops till the color changes, then continue adding drops till the color stops changing, and don't count the drop that didn't produce any change in the color.
 
JasonLion said:
TAs you add drops, you are really looking for a color change, it doesn't really matter what the final color is.
Click to expand...
Not quite true. The test can go through a purple transition color that can last for several drops (usually less than 10) and then fianlly turn blue. The endpoint is when it turns blue and does not get any bluer.
It is possible to have what is called a 'floating endpoint' where it changes to purple and stays there. This is usually an indication of either doing the test too fast or metals in the water. If you look at the vial of water closely you will often see little purple 'floaties' suspened in the soloution, which is actually blue. If allowed to sit they will sink to the bottom and you will see the blue color.
When this happens there are 2 things to do.
First, add 6 drops of the titrant to your sample first, then the calcium buffer, then the indicator. Remember to count those 6 drops in the final drop count.
Second, AND MOST IMPORTANT, be sure to swirl the vial after the addition of EACH DROP of titrant. It can take a long time to do this test properly. :shock:
 
I justed thought I'd mention when you said you were aerating with your spa to lower TA, you do know that aerating only raises PH, it doesn't lower TA. Lowering TA is acheived thru using Acid to Lower the PH and TA and then aerating to raise the PH back up.

Either way, 120 is not that high and you'll probably have to do some reajusting after you get the CYA level down.

What is the surface of the pool?
 
I will test again after refilling pool and post results here.

I reread about PH and TA and now understand the process. HOpefully I won't need to do any of that after I refill.

I may try cleaning tile while I have the water down.
 
if I should shock the remaining half of water before refilling to kill the algae???
Click to expand...
If you are draining 50% all at once, I doubt you will be able to circulate the water. Do not shock if you cannot filter and circulate properly.....that is a portion of the shock process.
 
I am draining and running filter at same time. I am using the pool vacumm to suck water from bottom of deep end. I keep a garden hose dripping in skimmer to keep the seal around vacumm hose. I then have a valve off of pump that I connect garden hose to run into my shower.

Takes awhile to drain but it draining at same time as filtering. I am also brushing the sides and bottom of pool as it drains down.

so I was wondering if I should add some liquid chlorine to water to shock the pool. the water in pool is green.
 

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After refilling pool the FC was 6 and CYA 60, I added some bleach it was FC 10 at 8:30 PM and it held over night. I ran filter all night and the cloudiness is clearing up. My Ph was 7.8 after filling and I added some acid last night but seem to have too much so now it is now 7.2. oops.


FC 10
CC 0
TC 10
Ph 7.2
TA 100
Ch 250
CYA 60 (was 120 before draining!!)

So now I plan on brushing and running polaris, cleaning out filter again, and will aerate by running spa to raise PH to 7.5. Any idea on how long it takes to raise ph?

I will test every day for a while to see how my FC levels go.
Normally how often should I have to test my pool and keep FC at 7???

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Don't worry about the PH, it should drift up normally and should be fine. 7.2 isn't "too" low to be an issue.

Good job getting your CYA down. Just keep monitoring the FC levels by testing each night and adding enough bleach to reach your "target" which should keep you above the "min" by the next night.
 
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