I've read it is best to leave this chlorinator's adjustment wide open while only putting a single weeks supply of tabs in at a time. Is this true? I have to replace the lower valve every two or three months when set on lower opening, 1-2.
Rainbow Chlorinator
- Thread starter Reed Kadavy
- Start date
Reed,
You'll find that most of our pool owners no longer use tab feeders as the use of chlorine tablets increases your CYA to unacceptable levels over time.
That said, some here do use them while on vacation, etc...
Can you please explain what you mean when you say... "I have to replace the lower valve every two or three months..." Are you talking about a valve on the feeder itself or another valve?
Thanks,
Jim R.
You'll find that most of our pool owners no longer use tab feeders as the use of chlorine tablets increases your CYA to unacceptable levels over time.
That said, some here do use them while on vacation, etc...
Can you please explain what you mean when you say... "I have to replace the lower valve every two or three months..." Are you talking about a valve on the feeder itself or another valve?
Thanks,
Jim R.
The feeder valve which gets clogged with paste. Since we are in the Phoenix area about everyone I know are on the 2 year and out water plan due to the water content. If you don't dump your water every 2 years you have great difficulty in keeping chemicals in balance. Cyanuric Acid and Hardness goes out of sight. Not sure if switching to liquid chlorine would help or not.
Reed,
Liquid Chlorine will eliminate CYA increase, but won't have any effect on your CH which I understand if from your fill water..
If I were using a Tablet feeder, I would run with the valve wide open, to prevent clogging, and just limit the number of hours I run my pump to control the amount of chlorine I was adding to the water.
We have a lot of people here from AZ, so let's see if we can get them to chime in on water exchanges...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Liquid Chlorine will eliminate CYA increase, but won't have any effect on your CH which I understand if from your fill water..
If I were using a Tablet feeder, I would run with the valve wide open, to prevent clogging, and just limit the number of hours I run my pump to control the amount of chlorine I was adding to the water.
We have a lot of people here from AZ, so let's see if we can get them to chime in on water exchanges...
Thanks,
Jim R.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,380
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I'm down in Tucson. I have an SWG pool and the only chemical I added regularly is acid to control pH. I typically need to add CYA once per year. My water is going on 4+ years old and my CH is 1250ppm. My pool is uncovered and is subject to natural evaporation and fill. My fill water is typically 250+ ppm CH. I will probably dump my pool water soon or wait until the spring but I have minimal to no scaling issues. If I had softened water plumbed to my pool fill line, I'd probably be at less than half what my current CH is.
When you follow the TFP Method of pool care, and if you can make simple adjustments to how you fill your pool, there's absolutely no need to dump water every 2 years. Dumping that frequently is simply a consequence of indiscriminate use of pool chemicals that load up your water with excess CYA and CH. There are folks on this forum from AZ that have pools with water in them that are 5-10 years along without ever having to dump the pool or do any significant draining.
You can do much better than you are now if you choose to follow the methods taught here...
Chemicals I use are Pool Perfect Phos Plus, Muratic Acid, And Scaletec along with Leslie's CL tabs. Maybe Leslie is a little overboard on water analysis. I usually do my own with Taylor reagents, but still have Leslie check every few months.
They suggest hardness 200-400 mine is 460; CYA 30-99 mine is 120; TDS less than 2500 mine is 2800; Phos not bad at 200. I put a montly maintenance dose of Scaetec in. If I raise the water level calcium deposits disappear and the reappear in about 2 weeks when water level is brought back down.
If I don't change water this winter the chemical balance would be hard to maintain in the heat of next summer. We also have solar heating keeping water temp around 90 when possible.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Have a read through these two links and then let us know if you'd like to try TFPC. You'll never look back if you do 
TFPC for Beginners
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
In a nutshell, you'll need to drain/refill around 1/3 to 1/2 of your water to get the CYA in check, and then should be good (water wise) using TFPC for several years. Half the chemicals you mentioned will not be needed, your pool will sparkle, and you'll know that it's actually safe for your family and friends
TFPC for Beginners
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
In a nutshell, you'll need to drain/refill around 1/3 to 1/2 of your water to get the CYA in check, and then should be good (water wise) using TFPC for several years. Half the chemicals you mentioned will not be needed, your pool will sparkle, and you'll know that it's actually safe for your family and friends
If you are experiencing scaling, your CSI is most likely too positive. There are members here located in the southwest with CH levels approaching 1000ppm that do not have scale issues, nor the need for scale prevention products.
With a CYA of 120 (if that is accurate) you would need a minimum FC of 9ppm to keep the pool sanitary and free of bacteria, person to person diseases, & algae.
If you maintain the proper FC to CYA ratio, phosphate and TDS is irrelevant.
Have a read through these two links and then let us know if you'd like to try TFPC. You'll never look back if you do
TFPC for Beginners
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
In a nutshell, you'll need to drain/refill around 1/3 to 1/2 of your water to get the CYA in check, and then should be good (water wise) using TFPC for several years. Half the chemicals you mentioned will not be needed, your pool will sparkle, and you'll know that it's actually safe for your family and friends
Essentially I think I'm pretty much following the TFPC program. When I dumped my pool in Nov of 2015 my CYA was 150 and my hardness was 650. That was 2 yr old water. Would it be worthwhile to dump 2/3 of the water instead of the whole pool. When I start with new water every 2 yrs I am able to avoid any partial water changes during the period. I'm sure all "Phoenix" water may not be as poor as our "Gilbert-Qween Creek" water.
You have been a member here for two years, so to be blunt....
Nope, if you were following the TFPC system there would be no tabs in the Rainbow.
You would not be using products that just help the pool store owner make his boat payment like Pool Perfect, Phos Plus, and Scaletec.
You would be using liquid chlorine only or have converted to a Salt system (probably the best choice).
You would never step foot in Leslies or any other pool store unless its to pick up a new pool toy.
You would do all your own testing and keep the pool in balance.
Do these things and you can probably maintain your pool with CH as high as the upper hundreds or even 1,000.
Now is the time to make a decision, keep following the pool store and dropping lots of money there and changing your water every 18-24 months or follow our methods. Mixing pool store advice/testing with TFP methods is just another recipe for disaster.
How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Please edit your signature and add the following information so we can better frame our answers to you.
- List what test kit you use to test your water
- The size of your pool in gallons
- If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
- If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
- The type filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge)
- If you know, tell us the make and model of your pump and filter.
- List any other equipment you have: SWG, second pump, etc.
- Please mention if you fill the pool from a well or are currently on water restrictions
Information in your signature will show up each time you post and it makes advice more accurate as we know what equipment we are dealing with.
Use a Taylor test kit testing TC, FC, PH, & TA. Test Hardness & Cy Acid with test strips. Owned home w/pool 10 yrs. Pool incl spa 13,500 gals IG. Pebble sheen. Pentair cartridge w/Pleatco filters. 3hp Intelliflo VS pump, Pentair Mini Max 400,000 BTU heater. Heater used for spa only. Solar heating for pool. Pentair EasyTouch. FlowVis flow meter. Normal pool season Mar-Oct. Pool filed with city water.
I can understand that a SWG would be nice. I would like to avoid the additional cost if I can. I may switch to liquid CL after dumping pool this winter. Only issue is management of periods away from home. We are retired and do travel. Is it inherently bad to dump a pool? When I checked it cost less than $10 to refill my 13,500 gals.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
A SWCG is purchasing your chlorine in advance. Overall your cost is essentially the same. The convenience is were it wins out.
We leave our pool for extended periods and our SWCG maintains the FC. We do have a weekly pool service that cleans the pool and adds muriatic acid weekly to maintain the pH. I typically have to lower the TA when I get home to manage our CSI, but we have only a minor amount of waterline calcium buildup.
You should only drain a gunite pool in the winter (could you add a signature? See Pool School - Getting Started)
I would imagine it costs you a bit more than $10 for that much water. You then have to add in CYA and use acid to lower TA. So your cost to drain is a bit more.
Take care.
If you are adding tabs I would really recommend testing CYA with taylor or tf100 test kit. If your CYA is off (by the regular margin of error seen with test strips)you can't possibly hit the right FC/CYA and know when to dump water.
@$10 per 13,000 gallons of water wow! I wish I had that rate. I would think if you started a combination of liquid chlorine + tabs using a full testkit and no more strips you could probably manage (and have to replace water much less often). Don't let your CYA get too high, certainly not over 100. A SWG is my favorite option if you can swing it.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,380
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
At $10 for a 13,500 gallon fill I can only assume you must be on a private/community well as no municipal supplier can provide water that cheaply. It’s up to you if you want to dump water that frequently but it seems wasteful to me especially in the desert where water is scarce. Draining a pool always adds some risk to damaging the plaster but it’s minimal if the refill happens quickly. By following the TFP Method you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary chemical buildup and can easily maintain your next fill for many more years.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I looked at the town of Gilbert and water cost is pretty low. About $1.10 per 1000 gallons or about $15 to fill this pool.
Also, CH is reported at 200 ppm by the utility. Not bad. You should be able to manage this water for quite some time.
- - - Updated - - -
Addition -- you are charged for your sewer rates by 70% of your average water use during January, February, and March. So drain and refill of your pool would be best in December to not pay higher sewer rates all year.
Also, CH is reported at 200 ppm by the utility. Not bad. You should be able to manage this water for quite some time.
- - - Updated - - -
Addition -- you are charged for your sewer rates by 70% of your average water use during January, February, and March. So drain and refill of your pool would be best in December to not pay higher sewer rates all year.
I tested CYA with Taylor kit but it basically isn't exact over 100. A recent test from Leslie's shows 150 which I'm inclined to trust. Plus solids are 650 which I also believe. I get calcium on tile (not bad) which goes away when water level is increased to cover (Scaletec)
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you believe that CYA - then your FC needs to be kept in the 17-20 ppm range. See [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Take care.
This is why TFP recommends an extended test for any CYA result above 90ppm.
Pool School - CYA
The extended test starts at step #8.
Why are you concerned with ‘solids’?
If you maintain CSI you will not need that Scaletec.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Given that you travel a lot, and you're probably spending $500 a year on chems right now... if it was mine, I would be justifying a bundle like the one I'll paste below. It often goes on sale for a fair bit less than the $2150 shown. It will supply all your chlorine for probably the next 8 or 10 years, especially if you're using TFPC from this point forward. You can install yourself if you're keen to do that, or probably get it all hooked up for $300 or $400. You'd just have to make sure a couple of your existing valves are compatible with the supplied actuators, but I bet they are. You could change the valves for not too much money if need be.
You'll then have control of chlorine feed for spa or pool, heat for spa or pool, control of the VS pump for solar, heating, and pop-ups, etc. When you're away, you can turn the SWG down a bit and put some pucks in the Rainbow, which will look after your pH, although will raise the CYA a bit, but with TFPC you can monitor, leave a little headroom, and manage that all just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-521150-Automation-Intellichor-Transformer/dp/B008H9A0FQ
With water that cheap, I wouldn't hesitate to replace water, subject to managing draining risks, and get your CYA down to 80. If you want a better sense of where you're at now, don't trust the pool store number, believe me, you're better at testing! Do the diluted test described at item 8 of this link: Pool School - CYA and then you'll know what you're up against.
You'll then have control of chlorine feed for spa or pool, heat for spa or pool, control of the VS pump for solar, heating, and pop-ups, etc. When you're away, you can turn the SWG down a bit and put some pucks in the Rainbow, which will look after your pH, although will raise the CYA a bit, but with TFPC you can monitor, leave a little headroom, and manage that all just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-521150-Automation-Intellichor-Transformer/dp/B008H9A0FQ
With water that cheap, I wouldn't hesitate to replace water, subject to managing draining risks, and get your CYA down to 80. If you want a better sense of where you're at now, don't trust the pool store number, believe me, you're better at testing! Do the diluted test described at item 8 of this link: Pool School - CYA and then you'll know what you're up against.