Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
Happy heart here!
Kim
Happy heart here!
Kim
Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
- Thread starter Dirk
- Start date
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
I created a bookmark file, one that could be imported into any browser, that would instantly install all Kim's great links into your browser's bookmarks. I PM'd it to Kim. Is that appropriate to post? Maybe in its own thread? For computer users that know how, it'd be a handy thing...
I created a bookmark file, one that could be imported into any browser, that would instantly install all Kim's great links into your browser's bookmarks. I PM'd it to Kim. Is that appropriate to post? Maybe in its own thread? For computer users that know how, it'd be a handy thing...
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
Dirk, I got the PM. I am playing around with it to see how it works. So sweet of you to do this! You sure can post it here if you would like with the cheat sheet you talked about as well! I LOVE cheat sheets!
Kim
Dirk, I got the PM. I am playing around with it to see how it works. So sweet of you to do this! You sure can post it here if you would like with the cheat sheet you talked about as well! I LOVE cheat sheets!
Kim
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
Dirk have you tried out the PoolMath App? It is awesome to carry the phone/iPad to the testing station and enter your numbers while testing. Auto calculation of CSI and life time logs! Doesn't get any better.
Dirk have you tried out the PoolMath App? It is awesome to carry the phone/iPad to the testing station and enter your numbers while testing. Auto calculation of CSI and life time logs! Doesn't get any better.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
I just installed it today. It is awesome! I put it on my iPhone. My iPad needs iOS update to load it there. If you use both, do they track each other? Or is the data local to the device? Be cool if you could load data on one and have it update on the other...
But no matter. I think the developer did a really great job on the interface, and I'll use it daily!
Wish list:
Copy/paste single set of test results, so I could post them here!
I just installed it today. It is awesome! I put it on my iPhone. My iPad needs iOS update to load it there. If you use both, do they track each other? Or is the data local to the device? Be cool if you could load data on one and have it update on the other...
But no matter. I think the developer did a really great job on the interface, and I'll use it daily!
Wish list:
Copy/paste single set of test results, so I could post them here!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
I have the app on iphone and ipad. The data is visible on both.
You can screen shot and post here.
Take care.
I have the app on iphone and ipad. The data is visible on both.
You can screen shot and post here.
Take care.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
That's gonna be quite handy for me.
Yes, I can! I'm getting closer each day!!
That's gonna be quite handy for me.
Yes, I can! I'm getting closer each day!!
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
So is this Dirk's or Mark's pool?
So is this Dirk's or Mark's pool?
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
That's what you noticed? Not the TA, which I've been diligently banging away at, for almost two weeks, starting from 260!!!
Is Mark Dirk, or is Dirk Mark? Heh, heh.
So is this Dirk's or Mark's pool?
That's what you noticed? Not the TA, which I've been diligently banging away at, for almost two weeks, starting from 260!!!
Is Mark Dirk, or is Dirk Mark? Heh, heh.
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
on getting the TA down! Now who are you??? LOL
Kim
on getting the TA down! Now who are you??? LOLKim
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
So, years ago, as luck would have it, I was playing darts in a little mountain bar up by Huntington Lake with two beautiful women. We were camping by the lake that week. For no particular reason I decided to use made-up names on the score board. Dirk, KiKi and Princess. We weren't playing long before the local crew of "mountain men" sauntered over (yes, mountain men saunter). One of them asks, "So which one of you is Princess?" The girls look to me and I figure humor might be the safest way out of this. So I chime in "Me!" That gets a laugh. And the guys end up buying us all a round. Of course, they were really buying beers for the girls, but couldn't very well leave me out if they hoped to make any progress with 'em. But no, the girls and I left together a while later. And no, I didn't have any better luck with them that night than the mountain men did!!
But since then I sometimes use "Dirk" when the mood strikes. (Or when some other website's user already has my username!!)
So, years ago, as luck would have it, I was playing darts in a little mountain bar up by Huntington Lake with two beautiful women. We were camping by the lake that week. For no particular reason I decided to use made-up names on the score board. Dirk, KiKi and Princess. We weren't playing long before the local crew of "mountain men" sauntered over (yes, mountain men saunter). One of them asks, "So which one of you is Princess?" The girls look to me and I figure humor might be the safest way out of this. So I chime in "Me!" That gets a laugh. And the guys end up buying us all a round. Of course, they were really buying beers for the girls, but couldn't very well leave me out if they hoped to make any progress with 'em. But no, the girls and I left together a while later. And no, I didn't have any better luck with them that night than the mountain men did!!
But since then I sometimes use "Dirk" when the mood strikes. (Or when some other website's user already has my username!!)
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
LOL we had a thread one time that talked about how user names were picked out. Your story ranks right up there for a good story! LOVE IT!
Kim
LOL we had a thread one time that talked about how user names were picked out. Your story ranks right up there for a good story! LOVE IT!
Kim
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
OK, here's a recap of my startup process.
I got the TA down to 100. I think I'll follow Marty's advice (a bit late) and stop there. If the pebble is still pushing the pH up, then subsequent MA treatments should bring the TA down too, right? Best to see where I'm at with both levels in a few weeks. I don't want to under shoot the TA.
I seem to be needing about 2 cups of chlorine a day. Does that sound right? It's manageable, but I would have thought less. No problem, I'm keeping up with that.
I'm still struggling with the CH test. I know I'm between 300-400. And I'm pretty sure it's more like 320-360. But for some reason I can't narrow it down further. I'll continue to practice that test until I'm more confident in the results.
I haven't measured CYA again yet. Remember, I put a gallon into 12300 gallons, so I should be around 30.
I haven't measured salt at all (Leslie's gave me 500, after first fill).
My CSI is basically happy, as am I.
I do have one concern about the pH test. Not super confident with that still. What I'm noticing is that the color never matches exactly with any of the bars. Usually, the water is darker, which makes it harder to judge. So what I've been doing is just comparing the hue. In other words, I try to look for how magenta or how yellow the color is, when compared to the bars, not how much deeper or lighter the color is. Does that sound right? I look at a bar on the left, and ask "Is the water more orange than that? Or more purple than that? Then move to the next closest bar, until I can say, not more orange, not more purple, close enough...
The bigger issue for me now is Thanksgiving. I'm going away tomorrow, and may not be back until Saturday. I have to leave my new born for the first time!?! Any advice? Should I goose the chlorine a bit? Put in two days worth?
And because I've just today stopped aerating, I'm not sure what to expect pH-wise. Will I come back to some crazy numbers? Or with a TA of 100 can I expect it to be somewhat stable? Based on the fact that I've got brand new curing plaster/pebble, should I leave tomorrow with the pH at 7.5? Or should I leave with it a bit low? Or high? What would you all do?
That said, aerators are off. Pump schedule is set for 12 hours on, 12 off. Three of the ON hours my vacuum will be running. I put the eyeballs on and observed a slight movement of the surface water moving in the direction I pointed the returns. So that's all good.
Can I go eat some turkey, worry free?
OK, here's a recap of my startup process.
I got the TA down to 100. I think I'll follow Marty's advice (a bit late) and stop there. If the pebble is still pushing the pH up, then subsequent MA treatments should bring the TA down too, right? Best to see where I'm at with both levels in a few weeks. I don't want to under shoot the TA.
I seem to be needing about 2 cups of chlorine a day. Does that sound right? It's manageable, but I would have thought less. No problem, I'm keeping up with that.
I'm still struggling with the CH test. I know I'm between 300-400. And I'm pretty sure it's more like 320-360. But for some reason I can't narrow it down further. I'll continue to practice that test until I'm more confident in the results.
I haven't measured CYA again yet. Remember, I put a gallon into 12300 gallons, so I should be around 30.
I haven't measured salt at all (Leslie's gave me 500, after first fill).
My CSI is basically happy, as am I.
I do have one concern about the pH test. Not super confident with that still. What I'm noticing is that the color never matches exactly with any of the bars. Usually, the water is darker, which makes it harder to judge. So what I've been doing is just comparing the hue. In other words, I try to look for how magenta or how yellow the color is, when compared to the bars, not how much deeper or lighter the color is. Does that sound right? I look at a bar on the left, and ask "Is the water more orange than that? Or more purple than that? Then move to the next closest bar, until I can say, not more orange, not more purple, close enough...
The bigger issue for me now is Thanksgiving. I'm going away tomorrow, and may not be back until Saturday. I have to leave my new born for the first time!?! Any advice? Should I goose the chlorine a bit? Put in two days worth?
And because I've just today stopped aerating, I'm not sure what to expect pH-wise. Will I come back to some crazy numbers? Or with a TA of 100 can I expect it to be somewhat stable? Based on the fact that I've got brand new curing plaster/pebble, should I leave tomorrow with the pH at 7.5? Or should I leave with it a bit low? Or high? What would you all do?
That said, aerators are off. Pump schedule is set for 12 hours on, 12 off. Three of the ON hours my vacuum will be running. I put the eyeballs on and observed a slight movement of the surface water moving in the direction I pointed the returns. So that's all good.
Can I go eat some turkey, worry free?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
EAT!!
What strength chlorine are you using? If 8.25% bleach, your two cups is a little less than 1 ppm per day FC loss. About right but will go down once our warm fall drops to cool winter.
Yes - add a half gallon of chlorine before you leave.
Your pH may rise. Right before you leave, test and drop the pH to 7.2.
I only use 4 drops in my K1000 pH test. It helps me compare colors. Try it.
CH - close enough. Since it will only go up, no concerns. I only test it every month during the summer and ignore it all winter.
Have a good holiday.
EAT!!
What strength chlorine are you using? If 8.25% bleach, your two cups is a little less than 1 ppm per day FC loss. About right but will go down once our warm fall drops to cool winter.
Yes - add a half gallon of chlorine before you leave.
Your pH may rise. Right before you leave, test and drop the pH to 7.2.
I only use 4 drops in my K1000 pH test. It helps me compare colors. Try it.
CH - close enough. Since it will only go up, no concerns. I only test it every month during the summer and ignore it all winter.
Have a good holiday.
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
You are gaining so much knowledge! Well done!
Two cups of chlorine is about right for this time of year and a CYA of 30. You can push the CYA up to 50 or so when you get back. This will help with the amount of FC needed.
Leaving your new baby.............she will be fine. This is how you "tuck her in":
-Lower your PH to 7.2. It will go up while you are gone but you know what to do to bring it back down.
-FC I see you have a IntelliChlor, is it working/turned on yet? If it is working then you are good to go! Do you have any pucks/tablets? If so you can add those to a floater. This will keep chlorine in your pool if your IntelliChlor is not working yet.
-Testing PH-I hold a white plastic plate up behind the tube. I make sure I am under a bright light. For me that is the light over my stove. I hold the plate and tube about shoulder height. I pull the plate back and forth to help me match the colors. Just go with your closest match and call it good. It is all about the hue as you have seen.
I have heard the magic stirrer really helps with the CH test. I cannot say for sure as I don't have to test for CH having a vinyl pool.
Have fun on your trip!
Kim
You are gaining so much knowledge! Well done!
Two cups of chlorine is about right for this time of year and a CYA of 30. You can push the CYA up to 50 or so when you get back. This will help with the amount of FC needed.
Leaving your new baby.............she will be fine. This is how you "tuck her in":
-Lower your PH to 7.2. It will go up while you are gone but you know what to do to bring it back down.
-FC I see you have a IntelliChlor, is it working/turned on yet? If it is working then you are good to go! Do you have any pucks/tablets? If so you can add those to a floater. This will keep chlorine in your pool if your IntelliChlor is not working yet.
-Testing PH-I hold a white plastic plate up behind the tube. I make sure I am under a bright light. For me that is the light over my stove. I hold the plate and tube about shoulder height. I pull the plate back and forth to help me match the colors. Just go with your closest match and call it good. It is all about the hue as you have seen.
I have heard the magic stirrer really helps with the CH test. I cannot say for sure as I don't have to test for CH having a vinyl pool.
Have fun on your trip!
Kim
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
And to further bring this thread to its logical conclusion, I'm happy to announce I finished connecting the auto fill to my water softener, yay! I tested the water right at the autofill for CH. I got 60! Yay!! (That's low for my water supply.) Can anyone verify I've got my head wrapped around this right: My pool is around CH-350. If the water evaporates and is refilled with CH-60 water, CH will still eventually rise over time, just more slowly than with city water. But if the water is splashed out, or if a heavy rain sends pool water into the overflow, then refilling with CH-60 water will bring my CH-350 pool down. If I have that right, I wonder which will win out in years to come!
--------
For those interested, here's the long version... how I did it.
I was lucky in that my auto fill supply line passes right near my pool equipment pad, which is surrounded by dirt, which is close to my house. Which means I didn't have a huge amount of trenching to do. Here's my original auto-fill shut off valve, at the pad, complete with funky, in-line check valve:
I was always worried that line would freeze or get kicked/broken. It's right by my garage side door.
First off: I ran a 3/4" PEX pipe from an existing cold, soft water line in my attic to the exterior wall behind my pad. I drilled out a hole in the stucco from an opening I cut out of the corresponding sheet rock on the inside wall. I sweated together a copper and brass hose bib and valve assembly, poked it through the stucco and attached that to a stud. I then attached the PEX and had my soft water supply ready to go. I added the hose bib so I could use soft water to wash a car, or my PV solar panels. A three-fer!
I removed all the river rock and dug up the existing hard water supply line for the auto fill, and then cut out the old valve. Those PVC valves are junk by the way. Mine was leaking and already had a broken handle. Glad to see it go! That took me a while: on hands and knees, using a claw hammer, carefully as to not puncture anything below.
I then assembled my new supply line manifold. I consulted with my water-company buddy about the right way to build this. He insisted on a proper back flow preventer (BFP), in place of the cheapie PVC version my PB used. These work better, and more importantly can be tested annually to make sure they are actually working. The BFP prevents pool water from entering the drinking water system. And in my case, because I was getting ready to create a direct path between my interior plumbing and my pool water, I wanted this done right. So if that wasn't enough overkill, I took it one step further and for a few dollars more I added a second shut off valve and two more check valves so that I could connect both the existing hard water feed AND the new soft water feed to the pool's auto fill. I may want to revert to hard water at some point, temporarily or permanently, and now I'll be able to. So if my CH gets too low, I'll go back on hard water. I added the two check valves so that no water could pass between the hard water supply line and the soft water supply line. A possibility if there were no check valves and if the shut off valves were both open, since the hard water supply is a higher pressure than the soft water supply (due to the house's pressure regulator). I could get away with cheapie check valves for that purpose because both supplies are potable water, and should one fail I wouldn't be poisoning myself. Only the line to the pool water needs a real BFP. OK, anybody still with me after THAT? Hello. Testing, testing. Is this mike even on?!? Short of it is: I can now send soft or hard water to the auto fill, or even both, soft water can't get into my garden, hard water can't get to my kitchen sink, and pool water can't go anywhere!
I ran the new PVC in the trenches and connected everything up.
Backfilled the trench, enclosed the new manifold in a tidy irrigation box, and restored the river rock.
I insulated the copper supply line, and turned it on.
Everything works, looks great, and the shutoff valves are safe and sound and out of sight, but still accessible, and right by my pad!
Now, it just remains to be seen if this will all actually work or not!! Hopefully my softener will keep up. And if it can't, because I took the trouble to retain the original hard water supply, I can always bypass the soft water supply on a hot day (or week).
Yes, I'm pretty proud of myself! But I can say with confidence that this is the absolute correct way to do this. Says me!
And to further bring this thread to its logical conclusion, I'm happy to announce I finished connecting the auto fill to my water softener, yay! I tested the water right at the autofill for CH. I got 60! Yay!! (That's low for my water supply.) Can anyone verify I've got my head wrapped around this right: My pool is around CH-350. If the water evaporates and is refilled with CH-60 water, CH will still eventually rise over time, just more slowly than with city water. But if the water is splashed out, or if a heavy rain sends pool water into the overflow, then refilling with CH-60 water will bring my CH-350 pool down. If I have that right, I wonder which will win out in years to come!
--------
For those interested, here's the long version... how I did it.
I was lucky in that my auto fill supply line passes right near my pool equipment pad, which is surrounded by dirt, which is close to my house. Which means I didn't have a huge amount of trenching to do. Here's my original auto-fill shut off valve, at the pad, complete with funky, in-line check valve:
I was always worried that line would freeze or get kicked/broken. It's right by my garage side door.
First off: I ran a 3/4" PEX pipe from an existing cold, soft water line in my attic to the exterior wall behind my pad. I drilled out a hole in the stucco from an opening I cut out of the corresponding sheet rock on the inside wall. I sweated together a copper and brass hose bib and valve assembly, poked it through the stucco and attached that to a stud. I then attached the PEX and had my soft water supply ready to go. I added the hose bib so I could use soft water to wash a car, or my PV solar panels. A three-fer!
I removed all the river rock and dug up the existing hard water supply line for the auto fill, and then cut out the old valve. Those PVC valves are junk by the way. Mine was leaking and already had a broken handle. Glad to see it go! That took me a while: on hands and knees, using a claw hammer, carefully as to not puncture anything below.
I then assembled my new supply line manifold. I consulted with my water-company buddy about the right way to build this. He insisted on a proper back flow preventer (BFP), in place of the cheapie PVC version my PB used. These work better, and more importantly can be tested annually to make sure they are actually working. The BFP prevents pool water from entering the drinking water system. And in my case, because I was getting ready to create a direct path between my interior plumbing and my pool water, I wanted this done right. So if that wasn't enough overkill, I took it one step further and for a few dollars more I added a second shut off valve and two more check valves so that I could connect both the existing hard water feed AND the new soft water feed to the pool's auto fill. I may want to revert to hard water at some point, temporarily or permanently, and now I'll be able to. So if my CH gets too low, I'll go back on hard water. I added the two check valves so that no water could pass between the hard water supply line and the soft water supply line. A possibility if there were no check valves and if the shut off valves were both open, since the hard water supply is a higher pressure than the soft water supply (due to the house's pressure regulator). I could get away with cheapie check valves for that purpose because both supplies are potable water, and should one fail I wouldn't be poisoning myself. Only the line to the pool water needs a real BFP. OK, anybody still with me after THAT? Hello. Testing, testing. Is this mike even on?!? Short of it is: I can now send soft or hard water to the auto fill, or even both, soft water can't get into my garden, hard water can't get to my kitchen sink, and pool water can't go anywhere!
I ran the new PVC in the trenches and connected everything up.
Backfilled the trench, enclosed the new manifold in a tidy irrigation box, and restored the river rock.
I insulated the copper supply line, and turned it on.
Everything works, looks great, and the shutoff valves are safe and sound and out of sight, but still accessible, and right by my pad!
Now, it just remains to be seen if this will all actually work or not!! Hopefully my softener will keep up. And if it can't, because I took the trouble to retain the original hard water supply, I can always bypass the soft water supply on a hot day (or week).
Yes, I'm pretty proud of myself! But I can say with confidence that this is the absolute correct way to do this. Says me!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
Yay!
It's Lowes' 10%, but you taught me how to check the date and it's 60+ days old. So maybe 9ish%?
OK, excellent, will do.
Ooh, my instincts were right about that. I will.
Where do you come up with this stuff, man?! What a great tip. I'll give it a try. I was surprised this won't skew the result, but it makes sense otherwise.
Coming off of a pre-re-plaster pool covered with nasty white streaks, I'm determined to keep my new pool walls pristine. I'm looking forward to working with TFP to do just that. So I'm a bit obsessed with CH and CSI. And check out my soft water hookup story. Maybe I can keep CH in check.
Right back atcha, Marty. I so appreciate the effort you've put in to help me out so far. I really do. You've been awesome (and so patient!). Thanks to your continued support, I feel a little better each day about taking this on. A little more confident each day in what I'm learning. Like it's really starting to sink in. I'm not sure how I can ever return the favor, but please know I am much obliged for your attention to my posts.
Cheers!
Yay!
It's Lowes' 10%, but you taught me how to check the date and it's 60+ days old. So maybe 9ish%?
OK, excellent, will do.
Ooh, my instincts were right about that. I will.
Where do you come up with this stuff, man?! What a great tip. I'll give it a try. I was surprised this won't skew the result, but it makes sense otherwise.
Coming off of a pre-re-plaster pool covered with nasty white streaks, I'm determined to keep my new pool walls pristine. I'm looking forward to working with TFP to do just that. So I'm a bit obsessed with CH and CSI. And check out my soft water hookup story. Maybe I can keep CH in check.
Right back atcha, Marty. I so appreciate the effort you've put in to help me out so far. I really do. You've been awesome (and so patient!). Thanks to your continued support, I feel a little better each day about taking this on. A little more confident each day in what I'm learning. Like it's really starting to sink in. I'm not sure how I can ever return the favor, but please know I am much obliged for your attention to my posts.
Cheers!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
Good job on the water hook up! You should easily evaporate far more water in your climate. You might get a lucky rainfall that raises your water level but that might happen every other year at best.
I do believe you will need to monitor how much your softener must regenerate in the early summer when your water feed to the pool will be quite high. I would assume you will hit 3/4" to 1" of evaporation a day. See how much that is based on your pool surface area.
Been a pleasure to help you out. Take care.
Good job on the water hook up! You should easily evaporate far more water in your climate. You might get a lucky rainfall that raises your water level but that might happen every other year at best.
I do believe you will need to monitor how much your softener must regenerate in the early summer when your water feed to the pool will be quite high. I would assume you will hit 3/4" to 1" of evaporation a day. See how much that is based on your pool surface area.
Been a pleasure to help you out. Take care.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
I really think I am. Thanks to TFP!!
Roger that.
Marty said the same thing. Cool. Will do.
I decided to wait until spring to turn it on. My water is 55° just now, even though it's still nice out. Someone told me the IntelliChlor won't work at that temp.
I [think I] know that tablets can be used correctly (like with a CYA of 30), but they are banned from my pool! They are the devil and I'm sure they helped ruin my previous plaster. I hate 'em!!
Cool, I'm on the right track then, as I am doing virtually the exact same thing. I use a white card, under an LED under-counter light. I move the white card and test vial around, back and forth, just as you suggest. Marty gave me a great tip: use one less drop to lighten the color a bit. I'm going to give that a try.
I am using a stirrer. I think it may be a timing issue? What's happening is that the pink turns to purple, and then kinda stops getting any bluer. So I put in an extra drop, to see if it'll go blue. Then another. Then stop. Thinking I'm done. Then a minute or so later it turns a much bluer color. So while I'm waiting a bit in between drops, I may have to wait a bit longer, to let the color develop. Anyway, at some point I kinda lose track of which drop actually made it turn blue, and so I have to kinda guess at the true CH number.
Thanks! Have a great weekend yourself!
I really think I am. Thanks to TFP!!
Roger that.
Marty said the same thing. Cool. Will do.
I decided to wait until spring to turn it on. My water is 55° just now, even though it's still nice out. Someone told me the IntelliChlor won't work at that temp.
I [think I] know that tablets can be used correctly (like with a CYA of 30), but they are banned from my pool! They are the devil and I'm sure they helped ruin my previous plaster. I hate 'em!!
Cool, I'm on the right track then, as I am doing virtually the exact same thing. I use a white card, under an LED under-counter light. I move the white card and test vial around, back and forth, just as you suggest. Marty gave me a great tip: use one less drop to lighten the color a bit. I'm going to give that a try.
I am using a stirrer. I think it may be a timing issue? What's happening is that the pink turns to purple, and then kinda stops getting any bluer. So I put in an extra drop, to see if it'll go blue. Then another. Then stop. Thinking I'm done. Then a minute or so later it turns a much bluer color. So while I'm waiting a bit in between drops, I may have to wait a bit longer, to let the color develop. Anyway, at some point I kinda lose track of which drop actually made it turn blue, and so I have to kinda guess at the true CH number.
Thanks! Have a great weekend yourself!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,842
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re: Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.
So this is the way my brain works:
I checked on my softener's capacity. 100 gallons a day should be no problem (assuming it's around that much). I can try and figure out, at some point, the actual evaporation per day amount. And, yes, I'll try to pay attention to the regeneration cycle, come summer. I can toggle between soft and hard fill water, so if my softener can't keep up, I can dial down the demand on it.
But I conjured up a hair-brained scheme: what if I pro-actively let water out of the pool? I can pretty easily manipulate the over flow tube, so it wouldn't even be much of a bother. Just periodically let out an inch or two at a time (assuming that amount wouldn't exceed my softener's capacity), keeping my skimmer working, and let it refill with my soft water. Do you think I could make any significant progress doing that? Or would it take months, or years?
And, of course, that'd mess with my CYA, and eventually my salt level, when I add that next year. Might all be unmanageable. But then again, if salt tends to creep up, maybe my scheme could be a solution for that, too. So I'd just need to goose the CYA a bit.
I'm probably over thinking all this, but, again, I'm obsessed with my CH, CSI, and calcium deposits on my brand new pebble and my newly sand-blasted tile border!
Anybody here ever try anything like this?
So this is the way my brain works:
I checked on my softener's capacity. 100 gallons a day should be no problem (assuming it's around that much). I can try and figure out, at some point, the actual evaporation per day amount. And, yes, I'll try to pay attention to the regeneration cycle, come summer. I can toggle between soft and hard fill water, so if my softener can't keep up, I can dial down the demand on it.
But I conjured up a hair-brained scheme: what if I pro-actively let water out of the pool? I can pretty easily manipulate the over flow tube, so it wouldn't even be much of a bother. Just periodically let out an inch or two at a time (assuming that amount wouldn't exceed my softener's capacity), keeping my skimmer working, and let it refill with my soft water. Do you think I could make any significant progress doing that? Or would it take months, or years?
And, of course, that'd mess with my CYA, and eventually my salt level, when I add that next year. Might all be unmanageable. But then again, if salt tends to creep up, maybe my scheme could be a solution for that, too. So I'd just need to goose the CYA a bit.
I'm probably over thinking all this, but, again, I'm obsessed with my CH, CSI, and calcium deposits on my brand new pebble and my newly sand-blasted tile border!
Anybody here ever try anything like this?