Autopilot Digital Dig-22- with sc-36

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avelez8328

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Jul 26, 2009
13
I want to first thank everyone for this great web site.
I have an autopilot digital that was working great for 3 years. About 1 year ago my cell (sc-36) was replaced because of burned wires in the cell connector. lately it has been generating lost of errors. I am getting an error that says clean/check cell. The cell is in great condition, I opened it and there were no flakes. But I continue to get the same error. Before it was showing low amp cell. I was wondering if there is any way to get a schematic of the mother board for this unit. I opened the unit today and found a fried lizard underneath the motherboard. I checked all the fuses and they are OK, but I think there is another problem and that the cell is ok. I did an auto test and the cell was displaying 14 volts 3.6 amps. I don't know if this is a normal reading. I hate to have to purchase another of this units after spending almost 400 dls in the cell replacement just about a year ago. I though these units would ran for a long time. i have some friends that have an old salt chlorinator for like 10 years, its one of those old units that only have led and has worked great, they have only replaced the cell twice and the control box works flawless. Is there still something in the market like that? I have a pool that is about 12000 gallons.

Thank You

Andres
 
Funny you should ask this question. I was about to ask the same thing today.
We have a SC-60 cell on a total control unit that is only one year old telling me the same thing.
Low amps cell? The cell is clean with no wear and the cord looks good too.
Fuses good, chemistry good, power good, I am at a loss too.
 
Thanks for the replies. Just as an FYI, I sent an e-mail today to autopilot stating that my cell sc-36 was just purchased about a year ago. they tell me that the cell doesnt have full warranty because it was purchased as a 50% warranty what a rip off. I paid only for 50% and it was about 300.00 dls if i am not mistaken. Now tech support states that maybe I need a new unit. The problem with all these systems is that they are design to last maybe 3 to 4 years, after that, you end up buying a new one. The other problem I have is all these fancy electronic systems are installed outside, here in Florida with the humidity and the heat, its very hard on them. I found another post here were someone seems to have found a similar problem with his unit and it happens to be blown capacitors. His unit is displaying a clean/check cell, same as mine. Right now my quest is to look for a system that is simple and that doesn't have any bells and whistles, I still check my chemicals often, so I dont need any lcd displays any any of those things to break. There are a couple of units made by pentair and by zodiac that even have knobs to adjust the strength of the cell. I have some friends that have an autopilot unit installed around 12 years ago, the unit only has 3 leds, its still running strong after replacing the cell for a third time now. I wish they still made them the same way.

Andres
 
avelez8328 said:
I opened the unit today and found a fried lizard underneath the motherboard.
Click to expand...

Man, I sure hope AutoPilot is not being blamed for damage to your circuit that may have occured because a lizard decided to crawl inside and happened to find the wrong locations on the board to rest. Just like any electronic component located outdoor, almost anything (critters, sprinklers, lawn service, dogs, etc) can cause damage to a circuit board.

By your amps and volts, it appears that the power module is damaged.

Other areas to check:
- Incoming voltage. Factory wiring is 220 volts. Make sure the incoming power matches the wiring on the circuit board. 110 volts powering a DIG-220 that is still wired for 220 volts will yield low amps and low volts.
- Salt Level. Have your water tested for salinity and compare to what the AutoPilot shows. Low salt levels (below 2400 ppm) may cause the low amps and volts.
 
Thanks for the info. I checked the salt and the salt level was around 3400 PPM, that should be OK. I don't know if the lizard cause the problem. My other question today is what is the normal volts amps reading I should be getting if I have my power output setup for level 2 at 50%? I thought my volts reading was low too according to what I have seen here from others.
 
These numbers are for Pool Pilot ONLY

Cell Power 1 = 5.0 amps
Cell Power 2 = 6.5 amps
Cell Power 3 = 8.0 amps

Voltage will depend on the cell model.

SC-36 = 17 - 21 volts
SC-48 = 23 - 27 volts
SC-60 = 21 - 25 volts

Operation with normal amps and volts (or slightly lower volts) indicate the system is operating properly and chlorine IS being generated.

As the salt level increase, the voltage will drop, but amperage will remain steady.
As the salt level drops, the cell develops scale, the cell gets old, or water temps get cooler, the voltage will rise as high as 29 volts. At that point, the amperage will drop to protect the power supply, but will continue to operate/generate chlorine.

Low amps AND low volts are indicative of very low salt, with an inaccurate salt reading; 110 volts being supplied to the unit that is still wired for 220 volts; or a damaged power module.
 
Thank You for the info Sean-

Is there anyway to get schematics of component values on these units? I am thinking that maybe the problem I have is a blown cap or maybe a burned relay (I used to be an electronic tech-component level). My unit is over three years old but my cell is almost a year. My cell was replaced before because of burned connectors. I also need to replace the plastic enclosure because of the sun and heat, I can hardly read the display. Sometimes I think I should have installed the unit inside a metal box with some vents to protect the unit better? Any ideas?
 

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Hi Jeff,

Your signature shows you have an Aquarite unit. I'm pretty sure AutoPilot will not be able to assist with a burnt circuit board for an Aquarite unit.
Regarding the other posts with AutoPilot board issues, one was a blown surge suppressor, and another with a fried lizard under the board, which could have caused the damage.

Any damage within the warranty period must be directed to the factory (manufacturer). Since I cannot provide a schematic, there's nothing else I can do. However, I can find out if there are other options for getting the circuit board repaired, aside from having to buy a new or rebuilt board.
 
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