Questions about readings

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sgtdvldog

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Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
I have a 24 round 4' aboveground pool. Heyward Sand Filter and pump. I live near Kansas City, MO.

Today after reading on this site, I went and got a Leslie's "Complete Poolcard DPD Test Kit". I took my first reading at around 2pm. If I did everything correct, they were:

FC 3
TC 3
CC 0
PH 7.2
TA 70
CH 140
CYA 30

I had to patch my liner and I turned on the pump, and checked my readings again around 4pm and they are:

FC 1-1.5
TC 1-1.5
CC 0
PH 7.2
TA 80
CH 170
CYA <30

Would having the pump on affect the readings?

My pool is clear, can algae still be present even without it being cloudy? Shortly before the 4th of July I had a green pool. I shocked it with HTH a couple times and used Algae guard and got it cleared up. That was when I actually found this site, but it wasn't until it was starting to clear up.

Also, regarding using bleach, I've heard it harms the liner. Is this correct?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Hey, Sarge,

Welcome to the forum :lol:

That your water is clear and you tested ZERO CC's are two really good things. I do not believe you need to shock your pool.

Chlorine keeps your pool sanitary and keeps algae away. It can be put in your pool in different ways but the best way is thru bleach (6%) or 12% liquid chlorine. It is totally safe for your pool (that's what's in your pool now) and, best of all, doesn't add things into your pool that you don't want. The other forms of chlorine all add some things that can eventually cause problems.

Read all the articles up in Pool School and ask lots of questions. There's lots of nice people here on the forum who will help with any questions you may have.
 
It's Sergeant, not Sarge. That's an Army thing.. :lol:
Just FYI, Marines always go by their full rank. Don't take it the wrong way, I'm not trying to be an Rear.

I have read quite a bit in the pool school already and will read more.

Why would my readings change in a couple hours when the only thing different was that I turned on the pump. I guess I could of screwed up the first tests, since it was my first time using it.

Thanks,
George
 
Bleach and chlorine are exactly the same thing. It can be purchased in different strengths. The pool calculator is a great tool for determining how much to add. Buying "shock" at the store is not necessary. All you have to do it bring your FC up to shock level using chlorine. Powdered shock treatments are going to add unwanted chemicals to your pool. If you keep your FC levels within range, you'll never have to add any algaecide either.
Make sure you get your water samples opposite the skimmer and return and always try and get to a depth of at least 18". Rinse your test sample container thoroughly to avoid false / contaminated tests.

Good luck with your pool!
 
Why would my readings change in a couple hours when the only thing different was that I turned on the pump.
Click to expand...
Chlorine is never constant in a pool. Chlorine is constantly being consumed by the sun and by algae. Because it appears you have no algae, then that loss is likely all from the sun.

Your others numbers are pretty close and well within the margin of error for the tests. The test will not be precise so you won't get the same numbers each time.

Back to your chlorine loss. Chlorine is somewhat protected from the sun by CYA. Your CYA is a little bit lower than we normally recommend. I would suggest raising your CYA level to aroun 40-50 and that will reduce your daily chlorine loss.
 
sorry I know you're getting hammered with posts, but I wanted to mention you didn't get one of the recommended test kits. perhaps you weren't trying to, but people often get confused because leslie's rarely if ever has the fas-dpd kit, only the dpd kit.

I really hope you didn't get this one. if you did I would try to take it back:
http://www.lesliespool.com/browse/Home/ ... 00/I/81325

this is the recommended one:
http://www.lesliespool.com/browse/Home/ ... 00/I/81329

and the one from http://www.tftestkits.net is a better value than any of them.
 
I can't find the test kit I got online, but it looks like the recommended one and the price was in line. The part number is 81-330 and has the 5 different colored reagents. It has:

R-0001
R-0002
R-0003
R-0004
R-0005
R-0006
R-0007
R-0008
R-0009
R-0010
R-0011L
R-0012
R-0013

I found what is missing. It is the FAS - DPD Titration Test R-0871. Can I buy that reagent separately and where would I find out how to use it.
 
you can here: http://www.tftestkits.net/index.php?act ... oductId=23
water-testing-instructions-on-one-page-t11306.html

I read through your post again and I think we may have overlooked some of your issues. to answer your question about algae, yes it can be present without yet being visible. it's called a nascent algae bloom. you can also be adding enough chlorine to keep it at bay, but never really clear it up. for some people in your shoes with a decent test kit but lacking the fas-dpd test, I would recommend just winging it if it was possible based on the cya and your target fc level. however, in your case I don't think it's 100% sure that you don't have a nascent algae bloom. the way to tell (besides purposely letting it get worse, which could create a bloom even if you don't have one now) would be the overnight fc loss test (see the link in pool school). that requires the fas-dpd test for the precision it offers. and if you do end up having to shock again, you will be able to do it the easiest and most correct way by following the how to shock instructions in pool school and using the fas-dpd test. so if you can get it, I think it would be of use to you. I wouldn't increase the cya yet because 30 is within the recommended range, and if you have to shock it's easier to do it with a lower cya. also, you should never have to shock again (if you are able to keep up with your pool on a regular basis) and follow the chlorine/cya chart. pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock you also will not need algaecides, clarifiers, bags of so-called "shock" or any other pool store nonsense.
 

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Thanks for all the help! Really appreciate it and I'm starting to get a warm and fuzzy about being able to handle this pool business. I have only been in this house for about 2 months and the pool came with the house.

Another question, if I have to add multiple chemicals to adjust certain levels, i.e. FC and CYA can I add them both at the same time or do I add one, wait x minutes and then add the other? If not, which do I add first? If this has been asked before, I apologize.

Thanks again!
 
One thing I forgot to mention is that I added a bag of shock last night around 6pm or so (it also rained last night, for what that's worth). So from my understanding since I am low on CYA, my FC lose could be due to sun, correct? And from not having enough FC to begin with?

Where is the Pool Care for Dummies book?..with pretty pictures...lol
 
First and most importantly, thank you for your service to our country! You and your fellow servicemen and women are heroes! :bowdown: :party:

Yes, your FC loss could very well be from sunlight. The only way to know for sure is to do the overnight FC loss test. That'll let you know if it's sunlight only, or sunlight plus nasties.

The overnight FC loss test consists of measuring your FC when the sun's off the pool, and then measuring it again in the morning before the sun's on the pool. Anything over 1.0 ppm loss, and you have organics in your pool eating the chlorine. Usually if you have a nascent algae bloom happening, the water will appear dull, instead of clear and sparkling.

What did you shock the pool with? Read the ingredients on the package, because dichlor will add CYA as well as chlorine. If it's cal-hypo, then it bumped your CH up a bit - not real critical in a vinyl liner pool, you just don't want it to get too high.

Just keep reading and re-reading Pool School. It'll start making sense after a while, I promise. :goodjob:
 
I used HTH Super Shock 'n swim.

Calcium Hypochlorite 52%
Inert Ingredients 48%
Available Chlorine 49%

I messed up and bought some of Leslie's Power Powder Plus, so I'll have to use that up before I go to Bleach. I wish I would have read more of this site, but everything I read relied on the test kit, which I couldn't afford until this weekend. I only had the HTH test strips.
 
HTH Super Shock 'n Swim and Leslie's Power Powder Plus are both cal-hypo. In addition to chlorine, they both add calcium to the pool. If your CH level isn't too high, that will be fine for a while. If you keep using cal-hypo forever, eventually your CH level will get too high and cause problems.

You might want to think about saving some of the cal-hypo for some future emergency. It is easier to store than liquid chlorine/bleach.
 
Thanks for the info Jason, I thought calcium wasn't that big of deal for an above ground pool. I'll keep that in mind though.

As an update, I added two bags of shock last night after dark and some instant stabilizer. This morning I looked and I have a bunch of grey stuff at the bottom. Could this be dead algae, like somebody mentioned?
 
I went out and vacuumed it up. One thing was, when I was vacuuming, the return jet started emitted cloudy water. What could this of been, could the stuff I was vacuuming be too fine for the sand to catch it? I backwashed and rinsed, but it still came back.

I took my readings after around 10am and here they are:

FC 5
TC 5
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 70
CH 180
CYA <30 the black dot didn't go away until I was at the very top of the tube.

Later on tonight, I plan on checking them again, but as just a quick test around noon, I used a test strip and it was registering about 5, where before it didn't register anything, which was the main reason I got the test kit from leslies, to determine if I had CC.
 

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