Aqualink Control in general + applet vs PDA

[PoolGate]

I got my Aqualink WiFi installed and working and now the question is what do I do with it? I can't seem to do anything accept very basic stuff. Start and stop the pump but I cannot control the variable speed. And the variable speed, even with the PDA is clunky and dumb. Everytime you go into a new speed, it takes you to the RPM screen so you can set it and it is never what you previously put it at. Also it starts and stops the heater, lights, waterfalls, etc. So far it is a huge letdown it seems like I need the PDA to do anything meaningful. Is this how it is supposed to be?

Also do the motorized valves suck as back as I think they do? They are basically on and off settings. No in-between for balancing but I am told the setpoint can be wherever you want. But if the pump is at a different speed, tough beans it will only recall what it is set for.

The light is very poorly programmed and though out as well. There are no custom settings you get what they give you. If you switch from one thing to another the system goes through a bunch of stuff before it gets there. It just seems like 1970s programming. Very lame!

I so far am sorely disappointed by Jandy stuff (all of it). Are other systems better?

 

[Jimrahbe]

pg,

Well, you have pretty much summed up the current level of automation, in a nut shell...

Almost all of it is old technology, but in your case it seems that you must also have some issues..

In most systems you should be able to adjust the pumps speed to whatever you want at the moment and you should be able to schedule the pumps speed to specific requirements.. Such as... if you turn on a water feature, the pump should automatically change its speed to match what the water feature requires. To me this is more of a programming issue rather than a system problem.

You don't say what pump you have, but it has to be able to be controlled by your automation system.

What you say about valves is basically true. A valve actuator will only drive them from one limit, to the other limit, and will not stop in between.. This works for most people as there is not a lot of in between requirements. A good PB will plumb the system were you don't really need to do anything but turn a valve on or off..

Most automation systems also allow you to remotely set you SWCG's percentage of output and notify you of low salt or low flow warnings.

I do not really know much about Jandy products, so I can't comment on your specific issues. Maybe one of our Jandy Experts will be able to chime in...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[smracing]

All systems work the same way when it comes to the lights and valves. The problem is not the technology of the automation, it is the items it is controlling. The lights just receive a 120v momentary signal to change colors. The valve controllers just have switches that limit their travel each direction. No encoders for positioning.

 

[PoolGate]

I also found out my PB ordered me the IQ20-A WiFi and not what he should have ordered which was the IQ20RS. The RS totally replaces the functionality of the PDA and moves it to the web and phone apps. It moves the more limited control to the PDA. Which is what you want the PDA for anyway, just to turn things on and off. It is like less than $200 difference between the two but my PB is cheap as can be. So I have yet another fight with him on this to replace it with what we talked about. The IQ20a is really totally worthless not sure why they even offer it.

 

[Pool Clown]

Yes, it sounds like what you need/want is the iQ20-RS UPGRADE kit. Replaces your current main board which eliminates the need for the PDA. All programming can be done by either the phone app, or the desktop. Highly recommend you register, actually i think you need to to get going online.

Registration is free.

When you are ready, go here to sign up (upper right corner, "sign up").

https://www.iaqualink.com/en/#/overview

It is how you get to use your desktop computer as another remote.


When you get the right board installed and working, make sure you tell it that you have a variable speed pump and which light you have (LED). otherwise, the appropriate control menus will not come up. You may have to do this on your desktop version first.

Be aware! If you wish to keep the PDA, i don't think you will be able to continue using it with this new board version.

To be honest, of all the upgrades that i have done, no one has wanted to keep that clunky thing since the upgrade can do everything the PDA did.

Another note: If you have any old smart phones that are "turned off", you can use them as extra remotes for around the house (through your home WiFi network only).

Good Luck!

 

[PoolGate]

Yes, it sounds like what you need/want is the iQ20-RS UPGRADE kit. Replaces your current main board which eliminates the need for the PDA. All programming can be done by either the phone app, or the desktop. Highly recommend you register, actually i think you need to to get going online.

Registration is free.

When you are ready, go here to sign up (upper right corner, "sign up").

https://www.iaqualink.com/en/#/overview

It is how you get to use your desktop computer as another remote.


When you get the right board installed and working, make sure you tell it that you have a variable speed pump and which light you have (LED). otherwise, the appropriate control menus will not come up. You may have to do this on your desktop version first.

Be aware! If you wish to keep the PDA, i don't think you will be able to continue using it with this new board version.

To be honest, of all the upgrades that i have done, no one has wanted to keep that clunky thing since the upgrade can do everything the PDA did.

Another note: If you have any old smart phones that are "turned off", you can use them as extra remotes for around the house (through your home WiFi network only).

Good Luck!

Thanks! I signed up for the web version as soon as the IQ20-A was installed - you have to in the initial setup. My PB hasn't called me back yet I'll try again today.

Also last night I was looking at my heater, which doesn't work correctly through the Aqualink. I opened the side panel of the JXI400 heater and saw that the PB did not hook up the heater using the RS485 connector but instead used some other terminals. The instructions say to use the RS485 and then the Aqualink has full control of the heater. So I moved the cable to that interface but still doesn't interface correctly. I'll investigate some more tonight. I did call Jandy and they wanted to call the installer directly so I gave them the one guys number. He wasn't the initial installer but the guy that had to clean up after the initial installation. He was already annoyed that he had to do as much as he did. He hooked up the motorized valves and the control cable for the VS pump.

 

[BMeeley]

I've been looking at automation options and have similar needs for pre-sets, scenes and on-the-fly adjustments. I didn't see anyone mention the Jandy Smart JVA add-on boards. They can go either on the actuators or in the power center, if there's room. They are supposed to allow valves to be set in 5% increments across the 180 degree swing. I can't seem to find them on the Zodiac/Jandy website, but here's a link to the manual. The doc sits on their premium site, so maybe it's intended only for pro installation.

If any have experience with these, I'd love to hear views on how they work in the real world!

cheers

 

[PoolGate]

I've been looking at automation options and have similar needs for pre-sets, scenes and on-the-fly adjustments. I didn't see anyone mention the Jandy Smart JVA add-on boards. They can go either on the actuators or in the power center, if there's room. They are supposed to allow valves to be set in 5% increments across the 180 degree swing. I can't seem to find them on the Zodiac/Jandy website, but here's a link to the manual. The doc sits on their premium site, so maybe it's intended only for pro installation.

If any have experience with these, I'd love to hear views on how they work in the real world!

cheers

This does look good if it exists. It says it can only be programmed from the One Touch control panel, which I don't have. I have been thinking of removing one of my auto-valves anyway and going back to manual control since they are difficult to use at best with no adjustment points. The valve that balances my 2 water features, a sheer descent and a waterfall, isn't set right for many conditions and whenever I use I I wished I had better control.

- - - Updated - - -

I've been looking at automation options and have similar needs for pre-sets, scenes and on-the-fly adjustments. I didn't see anyone mention the Jandy Smart JVA add-on boards. They can go either on the actuators or in the power center, if there's room. They are supposed to allow valves to be set in 5% increments across the 180 degree swing. I can't seem to find them on the Zodiac/Jandy website, but here's a link to the manual. The doc sits on their premium site, so maybe it's intended only for pro installation.

If any have experience with these, I'd love to hear views on how they work in the real world!

cheers

Here it is!

JANDY VALVE ACTUATOR CONTROL SMART JVA | eBay

 

[BMeeley]

Yep. For some reason, you can find them for sale, but they only seem to talk about them behind the pro-access firewall on the website. If you go for it, please post a thread with your experiences. Inquiring minds want to know!

 

[PoolGate]

So I got my free WiFi upgrade board from Jandy (Zodiak) and it is now installed (10 minute installation). I see that the WiFi web interface has a section for "Smart JVA". So I think I can hook up the JVA smart board and use the online WiFi interface to program it. The manual said you needed the One Touch control panel. But - It doesn't look like you can adjust it on the fly. So I might just get one and play around with it but was hoping someone here has some experience with it.

 

[Pool Clown]

Pentair has an adjustable valve actuator as well. Their actuator is adjustable at the actuator itself. When the automation tells the actuator to turn, it will rotate to the setting you have pre-programmed into it. This actuator will integrate into any automation with the standard actuator plug that most automation systems are currently using.

IntelliValve

 

[PoolGate]

Pentair has an adjustable valve actuator as well. Their actuator is adjustable at the actuator itself. When the automation tells the actuator to turn, it will rotate to the setting you have pre-programmed into it. This actuator will integrate into any automation with the standard actuator plug that most automation systems are currently using.

IntelliValve

Yeah this is exactly how the Jandy valve works. The add on board we are talking about allows adjustments in 5% increments. The incremental adjustments are nice when tuning water features.

 

[Pool Clown]

The difference is that the Pentair actuator does not require the addition of an "add on board" in the control center, I was just saying that the Pentair actuator is an easier install. Just plug in the actuator and make your settings at the actuator.

Little help if you already have purchased the Jandy actuator, apologies.

 

[PoolGate]

The difference is that the Pentair actuator does not require the addition of an "add on board" in the control center, I was just saying that the Pentair actuator is an easier install. Just plug in the actuator and make your settings at the actuator.

Little help if you already have purchased the Jandy actuator, apologies.

The question is does it do more than 2 positions without opening it up and re-setting the end stops? The Jandy valve actuator also has 2 settable stops done at the actuator that you can set anywhere but you are limited to those two. You have to open up the unit and reset it in order to get new positions. This ad-on control board removes that limitation and allows you to set it with software to whatever position you want for more precise control of water features (like a servo). I have a wireless remote that will be able to take advantage of this. If you are setting the stops at the actuator every time that is kind of pointless you may as well remove it and just hand-crank the valve where you want it.

 

[Pool Clown]

The link (in blue) in post #11 shows the overview and also provides links for the owners user and installation manual for your viewing.

Hope it helps.

 

[PoolGate]

The link (in blue) in post #11 shows the overview and also provides links for the owners user and installation manual for your viewing.

Hope it helps.

Ah ok I see now. That would be good if you could set it from the Pentair automation system. It won't work from the iAqualink accept maybe as "on/off".

 

[Pool Clown]

It won't work from the iAqualink accept maybe as "on/off".

If you want to be adjusting the valve setting all the time, then correct, this may not be the actuator for you. But if you are setting the valve to open or close a certain amount every time, then there is no reason why this valve actuator won't work.

 

[PoolGate]

If I direct all of my return water to my waterfall, it is like Niagara falls. Sometimes I like to do this just for fun. I also on occasion want to be able to send more water to the sheer descent. Right now I am locked into the settings since the auto-valve controller only goes where the set points are. It would take 15 minutes to open them up and change them. The way it is now, I would rather remove the auto-valve altogether and just walk over and put it where I want it. If this one I ordered works out, I will get a board for each valve. Once the board is in, I'll be able to make a couple of programs like "Niagara falls" that will put everything where it needs to be.

 

[Pool Clown]

Sounds like you got it dialed (or will have it dialed) the way you want.

 

[PoolGate]

Well dang it. I got the board installed but without the One Touch control panel you can't assign the board to the aux port you have it plugged into. So I will have to buy a $500 control pad just to use the board. I do think this is a one time setup so I asked my local pool store if they would do it and they said they think they could.

I'll say for installing the board if you have the salt power supply that goes right where the board is supposed to go. You then have to use an alternate location and the cables are barely long enough to fit. I got it all to work but it was not easy and if I wanted to install another board it would be harder. I left the board installed but connected the JVA to the JVA port. So the board is in and powered but doesn't do anything.