Water test showing no chlorine and SWG showing low salt
- Thread starter aztony
- Start date
The cell isn't that old. In the picture, the cell looks all shiny and brand new. It still has the original wire tie on the cord.
The serial number indicates that it was made in 2015. It's a warranty cell, which usually means that it replaced another cell under warranty.
I don't think that the cell is bad based on it being so new.
I suspect that the salinity is too low and that something happened to dilute the water.
Time to talk to the house sitter. It might be as simple as they turned on the hose to add water and they forgot about it and it overflowed. It happens.
Also, the CYA would have dropped by about the same percentage as the salinity. Was there a drop in CYA?
The serial number indicates that it was made in 2015. It's a warranty cell, which usually means that it replaced another cell under warranty.
I don't think that the cell is bad based on it being so new.
I suspect that the salinity is too low and that something happened to dilute the water.
Time to talk to the house sitter. It might be as simple as they turned on the hose to add water and they forgot about it and it overflowed. It happens.
Also, the CYA would have dropped by about the same percentage as the salinity. Was there a drop in CYA?
I'll take another sample to the pool store tomorrow and see what they come up with.
I watched the video on slamming the pool. It says I should get the pH and CYA levels to the recommended level before slamming. I already added a gallon of bleach. Should I keep slamming or take care of the other levels first, as the video says?
I watched the video on slamming the pool. It says I should get the pH and CYA levels to the recommended level before slamming. I already added a gallon of bleach. Should I keep slamming or take care of the other levels first, as the video says?
Your levels are fine. I would proceed with the SLAM.
If the salinity test shows low, add salt as needed.
Check your water bill to see if it seems like an extra couple of thousand gallons of water was used.
When you go away again, maybe take a picture of the water meter before you leave and when you return to see how much water was used.
If the salinity test shows low, add salt as needed.
Check your water bill to see if it seems like an extra couple of thousand gallons of water was used.
When you go away again, maybe take a picture of the water meter before you leave and when you return to see how much water was used.
Went to the pool supply and had them test the water. They got a reading of 1600 for salinity, which just about matches the cell. My chlorine level is at 10 ppm according to their reading. I did the test before I went and it was 16 ppm. Added 2 bags of salt since the pool supply store recommended 3. Will see how that does. I remember the lid on the vacuum basket wasn't on tight. I'm thinking with that lid on loose and the vacuum being clogged with the pump running that maybe that caused the salt level to lower. Maybe it was sucking in air causing the basket not to stay fill with water.
Water bill is $15 higher then normal this month. Some of that could be from a few weeks ago when I had to add water because I noticed the water level was lower by about 6". I had to clean out the auto fill line and haven't had a problem since. Here's my water consumption for the last 4 months. May was when I replaced the water in the pool. Looks like my usage went up 3k gallons for August. Also doing the bucket test just to make sure there's not a leak.
08/01/17 10,498 7/21-8/22
07/01/17 7,165
06/01/17 6,900
05/01/17 15,588
3,354
Gallons
9/3/2017-9/9/2017
Water bill is $15 higher then normal this month. Some of that could be from a few weeks ago when I had to add water because I noticed the water level was lower by about 6". I had to clean out the auto fill line and haven't had a problem since. Here's my water consumption for the last 4 months. May was when I replaced the water in the pool. Looks like my usage went up 3k gallons for August. Also doing the bucket test just to make sure there's not a leak.
08/01/17 10,498 7/21-8/22
07/01/17 7,165
06/01/17 6,900
05/01/17 15,588
3,354
Gallons
9/3/2017-9/9/2017
For the salinity to drop like it has, there had to be water loss and replacement.
An autofill can mask a leak because you don't see anything obvious.
If the main drain(s) got clogged with debris, the hydrostat might have been pulled up by suction.
Once the salt has been thoroughly mixed into the water, turn the system to "Auto". Check instant salinity. Once instant salinity stabilizes, move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to update the average salinity.
An autofill can mask a leak because you don't see anything obvious.
If the main drain(s) got clogged with debris, the hydrostat might have been pulled up by suction.
Once the salt has been thoroughly mixed into the water, turn the system to "Auto". Check instant salinity. Once instant salinity stabilizes, move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to update the average salinity.
Salt is now at 2400. Had the bucket in the pool but it flipped over. Have to start it all over again and hope it doesn't do that again.
If anyone is interested, Fry's/Kroger has chlorinating liquid on sale. 2 gallons for $5, 10% Sodium HypoChlorite. I'm assuming that's a good price.
If anyone is interested, Fry's/Kroger has chlorinating liquid on sale. 2 gallons for $5, 10% Sodium HypoChlorite. I'm assuming that's a good price.
Instant now is 3100, then down to 2500. Check salt and cell warning light is on. Chlorine is at 14 ppm.
When you see the instant at 3100, move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to update the average salinity.
Ok, complete the SLAM and you should be good.
Monitor salinity to make sure that it doesn't drop too much over the next week or so.
Monitor salinity to make sure that it doesn't drop too much over the next week or so.
Thanks for all the advice and help. So, what do I need to do to complete the slam. Seems like the chlorine is at a good level. I'll check on it tomorrow to see if it's holding.
Mostly pass the OCLT and make sure that the algae is gone and the water is crystal clear.
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
I think the water was mostly dirty from a dust storm or two coming through while I was away and not any algae. Water is pretty clear now. The sun has been down and I usually am not up at sunrise since I work 2nd shift. Is it really necessary to do the test at sunrise?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,353
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Sorry I assumed you had a bad cell. In Arizona to change out half of your water unknowingly is very odd. I would have never guessed it. You must have a leak somewhere.
You could not get enough rain in Arizona in 5 years to change out your water that much .....
Take care.
You could not get enough rain in Arizona in 5 years to change out your water that much .....
Take care.
It's best to do it at sunrise to eliminate fc loss due to the sun.
Just do the best that you can. No need to do anything that is awkward or inconvenient.
Mostly just maintain the fc as needed and watch for excessive fc loss.
Maybe run the pump a little bit longer than usual.
If the water quality doesn't significantly improve, you can get more rigorous on the procedures.
Just do the best that you can. No need to do anything that is awkward or inconvenient.
Mostly just maintain the fc as needed and watch for excessive fc loss.
Maybe run the pump a little bit longer than usual.
If the water quality doesn't significantly improve, you can get more rigorous on the procedures.
So looks like I have a leak somewhere. The pool level is down about 3". Chlorine is at 15.5 ppm.
I have a pool guy out to replace the light fixture. He says the leak looks like it's by the side of the pool where there's a wet spot. Hopefully it's under the dirt and not the concrete.
So now that I know there is a leak, should I run the pump and turn on the auto filler until it gets repaired?
I have a pool guy out to replace the light fixture. He says the leak looks like it's by the side of the pool where there's a wet spot. Hopefully it's under the dirt and not the concrete.
So now that I know there is a leak, should I run the pump and turn on the auto filler until it gets repaired?
I've attached a picture of where I dug where the ground was wet. I called a leak detection service, they want almost $600 to detect where the leak is.
My question is who do I call to fix the leak if it is a pipe. A plumber or does it have to be someone specialized in pool plumbing? One good thing I have to say about the leak detection guy, he's actually trying to save me money by asking me to send him pictures of the skimmer, as that's usually what leaks and suggesting it's something I can fix myself. I don't see any cracks around the skimmer. 
- - - Updated - - -
I've attached a picture of where I dug where the ground was wet. I called a leak detection service, they want almost $600 to detect where the leak is.
My question is who do I call to fix the leak if it is a pipe. A plumber or does it have to be someone specialized in pool plumbing? One good thing I have to say about the leak detection guy, he's actually trying to save me money by asking me to send him pictures of the skimmer, as that's usually what leaks and suggesting it's something I can fix myself. I don't see any cracks around the skimmer. It looks like you probably have some cracks where the plastic of the skimmer meets the concrete.