Probably need new pump. How hard is it to replace myself?

[crispyc21]

Just today my pump started to trip the switch about every 30-60 minutes. I only reset it three times and then just left it off for the rest of the day. I've only lived in this house and have taken care of this pool for the past three years. In the past it would maybe trip the switch once a year...no big deal in my mind. The pump it's self looks pretty beat up and I'm not sure how old it is. Should I be looking into anything else first to figure out what's going on? I'm leaning toward just swapping it out for a new one because some other little things are broke on it as well...like the drain plugs...gone....the holes have been filled in. Also, is it really that hard to replace the pump? Looks like two screw in pipes and the power. I'm thinking because the power lines are already there it should pretty simple to switch them to the new pump. I'm no expert but have done some small electrical work around the house before.
Here is all my info.

16x32 inground pool = ~21k gallons.
Current pump: Hayward
Model Number: SP2605X7
Total HP: 0.75
Rated HP: 3/4
Service Factor: 1.00
Voltage: 115/230
Pipe Size: 1 1/2"
Dim "A": 13 7/8"
Ctn. Qty.: 1
Ctn. Weight: 32 lbs.

Any pump suggestions other than just using another Hayward 3/4 hp superpump? Looks like I can get an exact replacement for around $250-$300

 

[pool4me]

I'm guessing your pump is direct wired??

If you've done basic electrical, (can install an outlet etc), you should be just fine. You only have (as you state) the power and the water lines. For a 120V pump, you're only looking at a Neutral Line (White), a Hot Line (Black), a Ground (Green) and then (hopefully) a #8 Bonding Copper wire attached to the pump housing.

(Just don't forget to shut off the breaker to be safe and I would imagine you should be just fine).

From your description it sounds like your pump is on the "beat side" but you could also shut of the breaker and check your wiring / connections at the pump. I've seen some pretty corroded connections and that could cause your breaker to trip. You may possibly have some life left in the pump..

 

[chrisa]

piece of cake (if I can do it...stay at home mom, anyone can)

I took mine off and had new seals & bearings put in and popped that baby right back on

breaker off, unbolt from pump, disconnect electrical (make sure to pay attention to where the wires are connected)...my husband told me to take a picture of it before I started disconnecting wires (funny man) it was basic (ground and two wires).
make sure the new motor is set for whatever voltage (220 or 110) you are using, before flipping that breaker

as for motors...mine was also the hayward super pump (that bit the dust last year...someone wired it wrong, before we moved in) so, home warranty guys slapped on the Emerson 3/4...I don't think its probably a great motor (I really don't know) I know when I was thinking of putting on a new motor (because the emerson started making bearing noise amd was leaking) everyone around here said to go w/ AO Smith....either way in my case, the emerson is still running w/ the new seals and bearings (atleast for now)

good luck
chris

 

[Pool Clown]

What is the amp rating on the old pump? Is it lower than the amp rating on the breaker? Is the only thing on that breaker your pump? New pump is cool, but would hate if you installed it and the breaker kept tripping cuz of something else on that breaker. Your pump breaker can also power other things at the equipment. Chlor gen, pool cleaner pump, heater, etc.

 

[chrisa]

What is the amp rating on the old pump? Is it lower than the amp rating on the breaker? Is the only thing on that breaker your pump? New pump is cool, but would hate if you installed it and the breaker kept tripping cuz of something else on that breaker. Your pump breaker can also power other things at the equipment. Chlor gen, pool cleaner pump, heater, etc.

very true...I had our whole breaker box replaced because of that. The washer and dryer started making the breaker trip...so, when we had electrical come out to run the line for the heat pump, they did the breaker box too (it was really old)...now no problems

 

[pikeman]

more than just removing and replacing parts

I did a major pump overhaul on a Duraglas this last January. I'm fairly capable; can follow instructions and have the right tools. Regardless, after I had reassembled and though it was running smoothly and pumping just fine, there was a persistent leak I could not stop. I tried tightening everything to the point where I was afraid I was overtightening.
Finally, out of desperation I called a well-regarded local service and the guy immediately recognized the problem as a warped housing and impeller. It was out of spec just enough to cause a leak at the pump-side ceramic bearing. As soon as he had replaced the plate and impeller - the leak stopped. I just lacked the experience to recognize the root cause. Neither part was visually defective, but I had nothing to compare them against.
So it's pretty simple work, but there are still some fine points.
good luck
Pete

 

[waste]

Welcome to TFP!!

Your superpump's motor is a breeze to replace If you need a little more than the good advice the others have offered - I can link up some more detailed info or you can search using "SuperPump" or "SP 1600 Z 2" as the term and "waste" as the author

You also might want to just open the back of the motor and be sure that one of the wires isn't loose (I've seen this WAY too many times when I've been sent out to replace a motor )

We'll be here to help if you need it :-D

BTW - I used to build and service pools in the Richmond area