I have a 10,000 gallon pool and I notice that after I pour an entire gallon of chlorine into it, it's disappeared within 2 days. So I took a water sample to Leslie's and they said my conditioner level is at 40 ppm which is fine but I should switch to Powdered Chlorine because it evaporates at a slower rate. So I went to a pool ship that has powdered chlorine at a cheaper price and they told me that Powdered Chlorine evaporates at the same rate as Liquid Chlorine. Instead I should increase my Conditioner level to 80 ppm. Now I don't know who to believe. Any suggestions?
Liquid vs Powder Chlorine
- Thread starter Frank12
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!I think you are failing to realize that chlorine is a consumable. There are 2 things that consume it: organics in the pool and the sun.
It is normal for a pool to lose 2-4ppm of FC every day. And thus you typically need to be adding chlorine every day. We certainly recommend using liquid chlorine to avoid the side-effects of the powders and pucks.
Here are the levels of FC that must be maintained as a function of your CYA level: [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
If you want to take control, invest in one of the recommended test kits and avoid the pool store roller coaster.
Check out Pool School for how we recommend maintaining our pools. Start with ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry.
C) Neither A nor B
Chlorine disappears with sunlight no matter what. It disappears faster with algae or a bunch of dead skin or snot in the water.
Stabilizer (also known as CYA) is necessary to slow it down. 40 is an acceptable number. I suspect it's probably higher.... pool stores mess that one up more than any other test. You don't want to go to 80. If that powdered shock is dichlor or trichlor, it will raise the CYA. If it's Cal-hypo, it will raise the CH level, which is probably already quite high due to the tap water here.
I think some reading is in order. ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry is the place to start. Then Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Chlorine disappears with sunlight no matter what. It disappears faster with algae or a bunch of dead skin or snot in the water.
Stabilizer (also known as CYA) is necessary to slow it down. 40 is an acceptable number. I suspect it's probably higher.... pool stores mess that one up more than any other test. You don't want to go to 80. If that powdered shock is dichlor or trichlor, it will raise the CYA. If it's Cal-hypo, it will raise the CH level, which is probably already quite high due to the tap water here.
I think some reading is in order. ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry is the place to start. Then Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
How much chlorine do you recommend I add per day from a 1-gallon jug? I'm new to servicing a pool by myself so I apologize in advance for any uninformed questions.
You need to add enough so that by the next time you test and add more, the FC has not dropped below the minimum for your CYA ... again, see the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
You can use PoolMath to calculate the amount of bleach required to give a desired change in your FC. The amount to add depends on your current FC level and your desired target FC level and the strength of your bleach.
Assuming 10k pool with a CYA of 40ppm, your minimum FC level is 3ppm, so your daily target FC should likely be about 6ppm so that it does not drop below 3ppm.
Assuming you want to add 3ppm of 8.25% bleach (some is 10% and some is 12.5%), you would need to add 44oz of bleach.
Try PoolMath and see if you can recreate that amount
You can use PoolMath to calculate the amount of bleach required to give a desired change in your FC. The amount to add depends on your current FC level and your desired target FC level and the strength of your bleach.
Assuming 10k pool with a CYA of 40ppm, your minimum FC level is 3ppm, so your daily target FC should likely be about 6ppm so that it does not drop below 3ppm.
Assuming you want to add 3ppm of 8.25% bleach (some is 10% and some is 12.5%), you would need to add 44oz of bleach.
Try PoolMath and see if you can recreate that amount