FC test for target 10ppm

Aug 13, 2017
14
Midland, TX
Is there a way to modify the drop test in the little blue box for a daily test running a target of 10-12 ppm FC? I've seen some suggestions on other tests of halving the water, etc to manipulate the chemical equation to test at higher levels. I hate to have to use the powder and drops every day.

TF 100 kit
CYA 100
pH 7.2
TA 80
Current FC 12
 
Have you thought about lowering your CYA so that you'll use a lower target, thereby saving drops? I believe many use 60 for their CYA in Texas.

It's not worth lowering it right now. It's a small, AG pool we'll take down anyway. I definitely won't run it that high next year; I just got it WAY too high before I found this site and got the good test kit. Still, it wouldn't register on the little box kit. Maybe I'll email the supplier and ask/suggest that they make a daily test kit for SWG pools since most will run over 5%.
 
......Maybe I'll email the supplier and ask/suggest that they make a daily test kit for SWG pools since most will run over 5%.
Good luck, just remember that 90% of the pool industry doesn't acknowledge the FC/CYA relationship. They will most likely respond that 'normal' FC levels are well within the testing results.

Nothing wrong with using the FAS DPD test daily, I do.
 
Good luck, just remember that 90% of the pool industry doesn't acknowledge the FC/CYA relationship. They will most likely respond that 'normal' FC levels are well within the testing results.

Nothing wrong with using the FAS DPD test daily, I do.

Doesn't it bother anyone here other than me that 90% of the pool industry doesn't acknowledge the FC/CYA relationship?

Mike.
 
Doesn't it bother anyone here other than me that 90% of the pool industry doesn't acknowledge the FC/CYA relationship?

Mike.
I think most of what the pool industry says is restricted by gov't regulations which for the most part doesn't allow cya in public pools. Someone posted a bit ago about a few southern states amending their pool legislation.
We can lobby gov'ts, I prefer talking people into converting to the TFP way. It is a bit slower, but we can and will sanitize the nation one pool at a time.
 
I had no idea the FC/CYA wasn't common knowledge among pool people. I am I got lucky finding this site right away. I guess that's why some of my friends' pools can turn green over a weekend if we get a good rain. I've checked on a friend's pool for over a week and all she told me to do was the little blue test kit and add chlorine pucks. No telling what her pool chemistry is.
 

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I had no idea the FC/CYA wasn't common knowledge among pool people. I am I got lucky finding this site right away. I guess that's why some of my friends' pools can turn green over a weekend if we get a good rain. I've checked on a friend's pool for over a week and all she told me to do was the little blue test kit and add chlorine pucks. No telling what her pool chemistry is.

Every chlorine product that I have seen in my twenty years keeping a pool has the same warning not to allow swimmers to enter the pool until the chlorine level is between 1 - 3 ppm.

Mike.

EDIT - I suspect that the 1 - 3 ppm rule assumes zero stabilizer to be safe but I'd feel better to get that confirmed.
 
Correct the standard 1-3ppm FC is assuming 0 CYA.

To the OP. Take note of the deep yellow color of the OTO chlorine test and just make sure it stays that deep yellow. But, if you habe a SWG, why are you keeping the FC so high? You should only need to maintain the FC at 7-8ppm.
 
It's so high b/c it's an AG pool with a CYA near 100. I hadn't found this site yet and figured the pool wasn't holding chlorine b/c it didn't have enough stabilizer. I didn't know it was the stabilizer letting the algae grow and eat what chlorine was there. I did a partial drain and refill, but don't really want to do it again b/c the pool will come down in the fall (and I'm a little in the dog house with my husband for screwing it up so badly in the first place.) I'll know better next year.
 
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