Replaced Polaris Turtle/65 Parts and Only Front Jets Working

[Catherine_B]

Hello All -

I have the Polaris Turbo Turtle which I believe is the same mechanism as the Polaris 65.

I just bought and replaced both a new piston assembly and randomizer as suggested by the parts store, since it would go across the pool and then just sit there. I do believe I got them back in correctly, but something's wrong. I did ensure to snap the two pieces together.

I don't use the turtle top part, so I can see that there is foamy flow in both the clear cylinders. The ball is in the center partition, which I don't know what good that does - but I had called the store a few days ago when the thing was apart (before trying the new parts) - to make sure that was the correct place for the little white ball. When it first fired back up, there wasn't so much foam and I could see the randomizer spinning (same as the old one did).

Well, it only goes backward. When I hold it up, either vertical or horizontal, the front jets are on full stream. There aren't any more pieces to replace other than those two, so I must have something out of place.

Can anyone please suggest me what to check or redo?

Thank you so much!

 

[Wolfmarsh]

The white tube with the fins on it should be spinning and slowly moving back or forward, thsi is the mechanism that changes the direction every so often.

The little ball should go in the larger clear cavity, where the 4 tubes going to the jets connect. It shoudl go in either the front or rear compartment.

If the tube isnt spinning, check the little screen filter where the hose connects to the return, and see if you need to clear it out. It may look clean, but pull it out of the hose and use some compressed air or something to blow it clean, the opposite direction of the water flow.

The most important thing to get working is to make sure the white tube is spinning.

 

[Catherine_B]

The white ball is in the center compartment of 3 where it should be; I've confirmed this with the company.

Also, good point about that cylindrical filter that goes at the return. I actually don't use that, because even with the sand filter, it clogged up so fast the thing wouldn't keep running. So something is going wrong with the cleaner itself.

I know the tube was spinning right at first, the first time across the pool anyway, then the water got foamy in the top and bottom clear compartment and it was hard to see. The closest repair shop is over 30 miles away and they charge $40 to diagnose it (is that high??). I already spent over $35 on these two parts from that same pool store, but someone conveniently brought them to me.

There aren't any more parts in this thing, so I'm baffled. I've posted a picture in case anything shows up that I'm missing. The turbo company tech help line, after 45+ minutes holding, had no tips to offer.

 

[Wolfmarsh]

Have you "flexed" the piston seals?

If you take it back apart, there should be a piston inside the black part of the mechanism. The piston will have a silicone rubber flange type seal facing both directions.

Take your finger and run it under the flange on both sides, all around the piston. I sometimes use a wooden spoon handle to flex it outward instead of my finger.

I have also taken some fine steel wool before and really cleaned and smoothed the white piston piece.

Those two fixes made mine work like it was brand new.

Your mileage may vary.

 

[Catherine_B]

Hi Wolfmarsh -

I'm attaching a diagram to make sure I'm understanding you. The piston piece and cylinder mechanism with rubber gasket-like things (#4 and #5 in the diagram, attached as one piece) is brand new and had 2 clear seals around it (the old ones were black). Are you saying a new part needs flexing and to sort of 'lift up' the seal all around, like wedging a smooth knife underneath? I can stick a knife or screwdriver head underneath the black seals on the old one in that opening between the seal itself and the body, but there would not be room to put a wooden spoon in it (at least the ones I have; too thick).

Are you also saying a new part might need a steel wool rub on the pole part of the piston?

I'll stay tuned for your reply, thanks very much!

 

[Wolfmarsh]

Hey Catherine, thats exactly what im referring to.

I wouldnt stick anything metal under the seals, so you dont nick them. I have some small wooden spoons I use that do fit (maybe the size of a popsicle stick), so I apologize for not being clearer .

Did you replace the clear chambers as well, or are they still the dirty ones from your picture?

If the seals in the chambers are old, rubbing against the new white piston, that could be causing part of the problem.

Without holding the thing in my hands, its hard for me to diagnose it.

 

[Catherine_B]

Yes, those chambers are discolored and are probably 3 yrs old.

I'm unclear if you think I need to steel clean the brand new randomizer. I haven't had a chance yet today to pull it apart again, but I 'do' have a flat stick like what you described. Thanks for pointing out not to use metal; I hadn't thought of damage.

I went to the barn and could not find the steel wool; I know it's in there somewhere. I have those teflon dish scrubbers (on the back of kitchen sponges) readily available. I wondered if I should clean out the inside of the black cartridge with one.

 

[Wolfmarsh]

I would be willing to say that it cant hurt to really thoroughly clean everything with that scrubber.

The cleaner the polaris is, the better.

I bet there are some nasty things in there, because you arent using the little wire filter. I would recommend going back to using that. I just keep a can of compressed air (the keyboard duster kind) with all of my pool stuff and blow the little wire filter out like once a week. Seems to work very well.

 

[Catherine_B]

Well, it's Sunday, and I'm back for more self-torture with this maddening unit. I'm no further ahead than I was about 10 hours worth of struggle ago on this frustrating product.

Wolfmarsh, I took all the pieces apart again twice more and gently scrubbed with non-scratching sink cleaner and a toothbrush. Although there was no scaley stuff visible that came off. The clear gaskets on the cylinder were not stuck down to the sides, but I ran a popsicle stick gently around them anyway for good measure. The first time, the tube was staying visible in the neck and going spin - stop - spin - stop. The ball, still in the center chamber, wasn't sticking to a port. Then after taking it apart again, this time the tube was not going up as far as the neck. I had to hold onto the unit to see what the tube was doing, because the water in the top and bottom chambers are foaming up in there and you can't see if the tube is spinning or not. The center chamber is clear, and the tube didn't look like it was spinning. When I held onto it, water was coming out of the front jets (still), and the the tube was 'not' spinning at all.

The tube has to gently click into place on the piston piece; they must be attached together, and I confirmed this with the tech line. I haven't tried moving the ball to the back chamber with the rear legs. When the thing is apart, before putting the black and clear covers back on, you can make the mechanism move up and down without what 'seems' to be applying excessive pressure. I've checked water flow through the four legs in the sink, and they are not blocked in any way.

Once in the water, it stops right away and just hangs there. I have removed the pool cartridge filter (my other nightmare) to make sure there is enough pressure, and also toy with the control on the top at the return. Nothing makes one whit of difference. I guess if the mechanism isn't moving properly, then that's why the ball will never sit properly and close off any chamber.

The company tech line told me to get a refund on the parts from the store, because according to the company - occasionally the parts are bad. (I can tell from calling the shop the owner doesn't want to do that - she wants me to spend $40 for her to 'diagnose' the problem. Well, I didn't sign on for a $75 one-season repair on this thing, because it's had constant problems from the gitgo. While still under warranty, the mechanism unit was replaced at least 3 times. It won't make it but for one season. I was willing to throw away $35 for one season's cleaning, but not $75, when I paid $150 for it new.) It would feel like being held hostage if I put the parts in properly, they don't work, then the store forces you to pay $40 more to them before they'll take them back. That just doesn't sound right.

So I've been trying everything I can before making the 85 mile trip to argue over returning these stupid parts. (At this point, I still don't even have the pool open for the season. Now I'm going over to spend some time at pool school again.)

 

[rickneworleansla]

Did you ever figure this out? I'm having a similar problem. I've narrowed it down to the piston assembly or the smaller round rubber seal that is located inside the center clear section. This is the rubber ring that the piston slides over. Its worn down where I can see metal showing through it. Anyone know if you can buy just this part to replace? I dont know if I should buy the piston assembly or this rubber part. I may need to buy the whole new clear center section but I just bought 4 new tubes. Not sure. ?


Thanks

 

[doglover]

I have been working with my Polaris 65 also. I have adjusted the relief valve and cleaned the small filter inside of the white tube. It seems to be working as of right now.

This is what I will try the next time I take it apart. Clean the outside of the white randomizer tube and the inside of the black canister where the plunger goes into, clean it with a SOS pad rinse it very good let it dry. Once both are dry take some car wax or polish and apply to the outside of the white tube and the inside of the black canister let it dry as you would if you put it on a car, remove the haze with a soft cloth and reassemble. I wold also flex the rubber around the plunger as was recommended in the other post, this should allow the moving parts to move with minimal friction and work more freely.

 

[Vernon Mogan Sr.]

I am new to this so I hope I can follow the simple rules. I am just trying to find out what is causing my palaris 65 to only have 3 jets working. I took it apart and it seems to be very basic so it didn't appear that anything was out of order. It keeps coiling up by the connection for the hose in the side of the pool. I have a 15 x 30 above ground. The unit is about 5 years old. Any hints as to what to do. Thanks VM Sr.

 

[DBfan187]

replace the piston and randomizer

 

[Vernon Mogan Sr.]

If I replace the piston and randomizer what guarentee do I have that, that will fix the problem. Is this an answe from a Turtle tech. or just a guess. I can guess another new Turtle will do the job as well. Sound like most of the people on this site are shooting craps. Sorry to be so blunt, but seems like no one has any real answers here. Try this or that sounds good, but what really fixes these problems. Guess the Manf. techs. want you to just spend money on parts, til you paid for almost a new one and the give up and buy another new. They just made 175% on the new turle. Is it me or am I looking at this thing incorrectly. I said I was new to this, but seems like some of you need some fresh air, from the factory. Ya think? Maybe we should petition the factory for how to fix, or replace this unit. Or buy another brand? VM Sr.

 

[DBfan187]

1 jet is always going to be plugged up do to the ball blocking the water flow. If the same jet keeps getting blocked that's a good indication that the randomizer isn't cycling all the way. It needs replaced. There's also o-rings inside there. Lubricate them with some magic lube. If the cleaner goes forward for a few seconds then starts going backwards, that means the piston isn't cycling all the way. Replace it.

Usually replacing them both corrects these issues. I can't guarantee these will work, I can only offer advice as to what I know and work on everyday.

 

[Vernon Mogan Sr.]

I will check into the parts and prices and see if it is worth it. V M Sr.

 

[mariane]

Re: Replaced Polaris Turtle/65 Parts and Only Front Jets Wor

Went to the pool store today re: the polaris having the same problems as above. Replaced the randomizer (which was broken) and the piston and it still has not corrected the problem. They said the chamber is not building up enough pressure to move the randomizer and piston. They recommended I replace the whole inside which was $100. I looked on line and found it a lot cheaper with just replacing the center chamber.

But I also saw above to lubricate the o-rings. What is the best way to do that?

Thanks for all the great help. TFP has been the best in getting my pool up and running. ;o)

 

[Boneman]

Re: Replaced Polaris Turtle/65 Parts and Only Front Jets Wor

I had the same issue with my Polaris 65. I dis assembled the unit and removed the tube. At this point, you need to pull the tube apart which will reveal a filter internal to the tube. It is no doubt clogged and should be cleaned. This solved my problem. Good Luck, Boneman

 

[mariane]

Re: Replaced Polaris Turtle/65 Parts and Only Front Jets Wor

Boneman,
Thanks. I'll have to take a look. Since I replaced the piston and the randomizing tube, I assumed the filter attached would be clear. Also, I have not used or looked at the Polaris 65 since I tried to lubricate the piston and flare out the gaskets and that did not help.

Mariane

 

[Geogio]

Re: Replaced Polaris Turtle/65 Parts and Only Front Jets Wor

Here ye, Here ye.... I have been reading through this thread. Good advice.
Disassemble: Check
Clean and scrub: Check
Check gaskets: Check
Put ball in center section (rear jets): Check
All the screens cleansed (the hose screen and the randomizer tube screen): Check

Still not work? Check

Get a tube of Magic Lube at your pool store or order it or find a similar product. It is used to lube your gaskets in around the pump etc... it feels like a silicon based lube. A little dab on the finger and lube ALL the gaskets. The Piston gaskets and the gaskets which the tube and the piston tube run through (the holes in the chambers). The housing gaskets. Works great and my polaris 65 is running well.

Be mindful of gasket wear, if they are worn or cracked (mine weren't and are 4 or 5 years old), I guess you would need a kit. Shop around they