Green/Yellow Algae problem

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estogo

estogo

0
Jul 14, 2009
34
Houston
Ok, I'm new to the board here but I've been reading a lot about the great ideas being posted here.

I definately have a recurring algae problem and I'm pretty sure that I know why. I have an inline chlorinator and ozinator. I run the pump about 6-8 hours every day and have a water feature (small sheer desc.) that I run about the same amount of time. The inline chlorinator doesn't seem to be delivering the amount of chlorine I need to keep the pool algae free. There's very little water running through it, just touching the bottom tab ever so slightly, even when set to Max. (hope I don't have a valve position issue or something contributing to that)

I exclusively use test strips (lazy) and every reading (including CYA) seems to be coming up ok except for "low" on free chlorine. I shock once a week or so and have added an "aglaecide" to it a few times. I think its a "polyquat" as the water tends to get real foamy afterwards.

I periodically have success in eradicating it but it keeps coming back. (And now I know it's because of my "loosey goosey" attitude about the amount of FC in my pool).

I'm at work now but I dumped a half pound of shock (15000 gallon pool) before I left and kicked off my Tiger Shark robotic cleaner. (I usually run the cleaner once a day).

I like the idea of the borates (because I tend to get algae) and will probably follow the info guide this weekend to introduce that into my pool as an algae fighter.

So, few questions...

I keep brushing the algae off as I see it but I'm not taking a vacuum to the area I just brushed. (don't have one). Is that a problem in the algae eradication process?

I've been using the tabs alone but I'm wondering if it's ok to use bleach added manually in combination with the tabs as well?

How long do I need to keep the level of FC super high to kill it off, four/five days? (even though I won't be able to see the algae after I brush it the first day, it's still there)

During this time of high chlorine during my war, is it ok to also introduce the borate theory?

Thanks for all of your help.

I'm really interested in getting a "liquidator" type of set up to continually deliver bleach and keep the algae at bay for the long run.
 
And now I know it's because of my "loosey goosey" attitude about the amount of FC in my pool
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Hey, estogo,

Welcome to the forum. Please don't be mad at me but I agree with your quote above. You have pretty much identified your issues except for one that we don't know about......Your CYA content. Extended use of pucks elevates your CYA to a point where it renders the chlorine ineffectual.

The liquidator will not solve your issues. I wish it would because I have one. What's going to be required to get your pool up to full speed is for you to retake charge of your pool and declare war on the algae.

Unfortunately, again, the algae will never give up so, even if you "fix" your pool now, it will revert right back to it's current condition until you are willing to take the plunge and test accurately, dose accurately and give your pool some attention each day. It doesn't take a lot but it will take some.

Again, please don't think I'm being harsh or a *********.......I just know from experience what's involved.

You should completely disregard borates for now. They will be of some use only after your pool is crystal clear.
 
Not a problem at all! I was just looking for some guidance and I'll hold off on my Borates experiment until all is well. I was just talking to a buddy of mine who had his pool built about the same time as mine and he says his inline chlorinator tube is almost always full and he's never had low chlorine issues like me.

That's partly what I suspect is contributing to my issues. I'm going to call my pool co. for them to come out and make sure the valves or whatever is positioned in such a way as to get the proper flow from it into the pool. Hopefully that will help for long term routine maintenance.

Thanks for the reply
 
another way to put it is the way you take care of your pool borders on useless. you have no set plan and what you do use you don't follow a schedule on. if you do care about getting your pool in shape, you need to read pool-school/
you also need to realize that you're not holding chlorine because it's being eaten up by algae. and your inline feeder which is contributing to your problem is probably functioning fine physically. neither the tabs nor the algaecide is recommended (except in certain cases). pool-school/ has a lot of great info that will make sense if you sit down and read it, and also get a good test kit (see the recommended ones in pool school).
 
Hi and welcome, see my response in bold :wave:

estogo said:
The inline chlorinator doesn't seem to be delivering the amount of chlorine I need to keep the pool algae free.

That may be contributing to the problem, but once algae is in the pool, the pucks cannot keep up with them- and you need to shock with bleach. We recommend the use of pucks for vacations, etc., so if this is a newer chlorinator under warranty, go ahead and have it repaired. Understand that tablets do a few unwanted things: They lower PH/TA, and they raise CYA.

I exclusively use test strips (lazy) and every reading (including CYA) seems to be coming up ok except for "low" on free chlorine.
Test strips are terribly inaccurate, especially for CYA levels - you need your own test kit, either the TF100 or the Taylor K-2006.

I shock once a week or so and have added an "aglaecide" to it a few times. I think its a "polyquat" as the water tends to get real foamy afterwards.
Polyquat 60 doesn't foam. Cheap linear quats do. Algaecide is completely unneccessary (except for a few specific circumstances) in a properly chlorinated pool.

I periodically have success in eradicating it but it keeps coming back. (And now I know it's because of my "loosey goosey" attitude about the amount of FC in my pool).
Yes, you need to follow the instructions in Pool School for daily chlorination and how to shock.

I'm at work now but I dumped a half pound of shock (15000 gallon pool) before I left and kicked off my Tiger Shark robotic cleaner. (I usually run the cleaner once a day).
Stick with bleach, powder shock adds unwanted byproducts (either calcium or CYA). You need to learn what you are adding to the pool to avoid possible problems.

I like the idea of the borates (because I tend to get algae) and will probably follow the info guide this weekend to introduce that into my pool as an algae fighter.
Clear the pool first, then "get to know" your pool before you tackle borates.

I keep brushing the algae off as I see it but I'm not taking a vacuum to the area I just brushed. (don't have one). Is that a problem in the algae eradication process?
Not necessarily, if you kill the algae and keep brushing the pool, stirring everything up, eventually the filter should catch most of it. You might want to get a simple vac head/hose combo.

I've been using the tabs alone but I'm wondering if it's ok to use bleach added manually in combination with the tabs as well?
As you have learned, stick with bleach, unless travelling.

How long do I need to keep the level of FC super high to kill it off, four/five days? (even though I won't be able to see the algae after I brush it the first day, it's still there)
Till the FC holds overnight...but you need an FAS-DPD test to confirm this.
Click to expand...
 

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