OK. Wife got tired of all the problems with the SWG (Arctic Onzen) and called service. Guy came out and replaced the electrode unit. Come to find out, the calcium was building up on them and blocking the flow thru the unit. I told him we quit using calcium after reading this web site. He said that was good since it isn't needed for fiberglass hot tub. He has been trying to get the dealers to stop telling folks to add calcium. He also recommended to switch from Micropure MF-170 micron filter to a new improved version called Silver Sentinel that is wrapped in netting to hold it together better (they have found the others falling apart possibly from the salt). Now, the system is working GREAT! We are getting so much sanitizer, we almost are creating too much! I turned the thing almost all the way down. Thanks for all of your help and advice on this forum!
Skip the SWG and go strictly BBB???
- Thread starter larrys1
- Start date
Thanks for the update and sorry we didn't tell you to get that CH lower. We knew it was high but should have realized that in a hot tub it's a much more serious problem for you because you were considering using an SWG. We were more focused on how to get you to use manual dosing properly where that higher CH could be somewhat managed via a lower TA level. Anyway, glad things eventually worked out for you.
OK. Following my previous post about getting our Onzen SWG repaired and it worked like a champ for several months, we drained and refilled the tub a week ago and it quit working again. Called service out and all he said was our TDS was too high (~3500 ppm). So he drained half the water and refilled. Still not working. Wife and I talked about getting repair folks back out again, but we figured they're never going to replace the system under warranty because in their mind it's always our fault (chemical balance off, not enough salt, too much salt, etc.). So we decided to go full-on BBB. I drained and re-filled yesterday and put 2 cups bleach in. I will check pH and TA when I get home tonight and adjust as necessary. I think we will be happier and it will actually be easier to take care of because we will be in control. Too bad I paid extra money for something that didn't work however...
Just be sure to follow the instructions in the article - don't forget a little CYA.
Easiest way to add CYA is by using dichlor as a chlorine source for a while. Pool/spa supply places will have it.
--paulr
--paulr
frustratedpoolmom said:
Do you need to even for a covered hot tub? I thought it was just for open air pools.
It is most definitely needed in your covered hot tub. Without any CYA in the water at all, the active chlorine (hypochlorous acid) level is far too strong and will degrade your spa cover more quickly, can corrode components, will oxidize swimsuits, skin and hair more quickly, and will outgas more quickly and probably smell more as well.larrys1 said:
Remember that CYA doesn't just protect chlorine from sunlight, but significantly moderates chlorine's strength. Use Dichlor for roughly a week or however long it takes you to cumulatively add around 33 ppm FC of Dichlor since that should result in around 30 ppm CYA. That's a decent amount of CYA for proper moderation of chlorine's strength while still having the active chlorine level be strong enough to kill pathogens quickly at hot spa temperatures (even the rather ubiquitous bacteria that causes hot tub itch).
Don't forget that once you switch to bleach after using Dichlor initially, the pH will tend to rise unless you lower the TA significantly -- to as low as 50 ppm if needed. Also, using 50 ppm Borates (after getting the TA lower) can help stabilize the pH. See How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)? for more info.
Richard