Worried about bad workmanship

Jul 20, 2017
16
Minnesota
Hey guys, I just had my pool replumbed (both underground and above ground pipes).

Half way through i got a load of warning signs from my builder (slow build + trying to rip me off on parts pricing).

I'm now concerned that he hasn't done a good job. So hopefully you can help.

Firstly my pipes are supported by a random piece of piping - picture below:

Support by mark lama, on Flickr

Secondly, i have 3 inbound pipes - 2 of the valves can be opened and closed. however 1 of them i can't seem to close, is this normal? (only reason i wanted to close it was because i was getting priming issues.

Also i have 90degree bend coming into the pump, one of things the builder sold me was that he would be replacing all the 90 degree bends to improve water flow. just curious if it's necessary to have the one coming into the pump (all the others were changed to less than 90). pics below

pipes by mark lama, on Flickr



thanks!

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hmm i'm not sure why the pics aren't embedding - i copied the bbcode directly into the post?
 
I don't like it.

If the ball valve won't move, he probably got pvc cement into the connection. It's not a valve if it doesn't move, make him replace it.

You should not have a 90 right at the inlet to the pump, big no-no most likely related to your priming issue. Read the manual for your pump, most want 5 times pipe diameter of straight pipe. So for a 2 inch line you want a minimum of 10 inches of straight pipe before the pump. You might not be able to get as much as that based off your setup but a 90 directly in is a problem.

Post some pics from further back showing the whole setup.

Sorry you got a bad plumbing job, good eye catching it, now make him fix the mistakes.
 
It appears most of the pvc is DWV (Drain, Waste, Vent) with DWV fittings. That is NOT pressure pipe. It might work as your system is low pressure, but should not have been used, especially on the pressure side of the pump.

I would force them to replumb the entire thing. But that is me --------

Update --
I just looked closer at your pictures and it shows SCH 40 but also DWV. I would have to look into that. Normally that is not interchangeable. So I may have over-reacted.

Take care.
 
Thanks for the reply and the link to the manuals - the builder didn't give me the manual.

I actually have a whisperflo - but it looks like a similar guidance - 10" before the front of the pump and specifically don't use a 90degree directly into the pump.

did you see the first picture named "support" i have basically a cut off piece of pipe holding up my plumbing - I assume this isn't best practice.

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It appears most of the pvc is DWV (Drain, Waste, Vent) with DWV fittings. That is NOT pressure pipe. It might work as your system is low pressure, but should not have been used, especially on the pressure side of the pump.

I would force them to replumb the entire thing. But that is me --------

Update --
I just looked closer at your pictures and it shows SCH 40 but also DWV. I would have to look into that. Normally that is not interchangeable. So I may have over-reacted.

Take care.


whoa!!! you got me worried haha.
 
While a 90 right at the pump inlet is not ideal, I wouldn't get too hung up about it.

A 90 connected directly to the impeller inlet could possibly cause cavitation due to the eddies created by the 90. However, in a residential pool pump, there is usually a pump basket between the 90 and the impeller inlet and this will help eliminate any eddies before they reach the impeller inlet so I don't think you have anything to worry about.
 
Also the DWV fittings, if you are having this inspected by the city, they won't like that. A professional should not use DWV fitting if you can avoid it. DWV is not pressure rated and while it may be fine when you do it yourself, it's not up to most code.
 
Saw that you are up here in MN and have a well. Read through this thread and follow Swampwoman's advice on filter cartridges for filling your pool. The ones I used are okay, hers are much better.

I debated having water trucked in and using my well to fill. So I called around to see what a new well would cost me, close to what the water would be. But the interesting thing the well company I called said to run as many hoses as possible. The goal was to make it so the pump never turned off and on, just steady pumping. He said the off and on kills well pumps. Mine is 20 years old now, pool was built last year.
Water to fill your pool would be about $1200 if your near the cities.

Good luck with the rest of the build.
 
Saw that you are up here in MN and have a well. Read through this thread and follow Swampwoman's advice on filter cartridges for filling your pool. The ones I used are okay, hers are much better.

I debated having water trucked in and using my well to fill. So I called around to see what a new well would cost me, close to what the water would be. But the interesting thing the well company I called said to run as many hoses as possible. The goal was to make it so the pump never turned off and on, just steady pumping. He said the off and on kills well pumps. Mine is 20 years old now, pool was built last year.
Water to fill your pool would be about $1200 if your near the cities.

Good luck with the rest of the build.

Thanks for the info - must admit I have read that thread like a hundred times haha. I trucked in water to the cost of $1400 (ouch).

I is another reason I am annoyed by my pool guy as he was still working on the plumbing etc AFTER he organized the water delivery, however he failed to tell me that it was my responsibility to look after the water (whilst him and his team was onsite!!) .

So within a week of him finishing, my $1400 crystal clear water was green and cloudy. Been slamming it for the last 2 weeks, so it's back on it's feet now, but I was not impressed.

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Any opinions on the support?

Pipes supported by cut-off piece of pvc
 

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I don't like how it looks either, but I would hate for someone to trip, step on the pipe and shatter it. Is the equipment pad small? Looks like there is a fence or something in the way causing for some funky plumbing.

Yeah the pad is quite small given it has a heater / sand filter / pump on it.

They did remove the small privacy fence ( which just hides the equipment) when they were working on it. But they didn't mention any options about extending the fencing to improve the plumbing.

will take a picture of the whole set up.
 
As a few people noted that 90 that is being supported is not SCH40, it is DWV. The 90 going into the jammed up valve is also DWV and it appears there is one more is just out of the picture on the right heading down into the ground. That would never pass inspection. For that reason alone I would tell them to redo it. The female connection on DWV fitting does not go as deep as a SCH40 and it is thinner as well. You might never have problems but it hasn't been done professionally and you paid to have a professional job done. As a suggestion I would install Jandy valves when you get the pump reworked. I used the same valves that you have now when I did my pool install and wish that I had spent the extra money. Over time those valves tend to jam up and stop working and there is no way to fix them at that point other than to cut them out and replace them.
 
Here is my plumbing job. I am SUPER happy with it!

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