Amount of Liquid Chlorine Everyday

May 26, 2009
43
Eatontown, NJ
I just switched to liquid chlorine last week and trying to get my chlorine constant of at least 1ppm. I would like to know how much i should expect to be using of liquid chlorine everyday. I know sunny days it will burn up more. Here in NJ is been sunny but in the very low 80's.

My cya is 130, i know it's way to high and plan on replacing water when I know the there will be two days of bad weather. I don't want to give up and swimming if I could help it. My understanding is that this high of a level of cya will require me to have a much higher level of chlorine to do the proper sanitizing and have visited the pool calculator for those numbers and also the cya/chlorine chart.

Are there any other problems that are created with a hight cya???

Could my Nature2's be messing my chlorine in any way?

I realize this forum is not a fan of natures2, should i just remove the cartridge temporarily until if and when I decide to totally get rid of the Nature's2 system?

TIA, sorry this has probably been answered many times but couldn't find the answer on these forums.
 
Yes, order a good test kit, one of the recommended kits described in the article in Pool School.

Confirm the CYA is in fact 130, if it is, you need the free chlorine very high - at least 9-10 as your "min" and like 15 for your target for dosing - learn how to use the Pool Calculator to figure how much LQ that is..

You don't need to give up swimming while lowering the CYA. As long as your water isn't green or cloudy, why should you give up swimming? You can drain down a foot at a time, more if you can (low water table) draining more at once if possible allows less water usage overall. But I guess I don't see why you have to give up swimming.... Or is the water temp from the fresh fill that would bother you?

Lastly, Ditch the N2. Just toss the cartridge, open the flow line to the cannister to max so there's no obstruction, and just leave it in the plumbing line until you decide to remove it.
 
reebok said:
nature2 is a mineral system. see this link for some info. alternative-sanitizers-and-chemical-free-pools-the-truth-t3025.html
the general rule of thumb is 2ppm loss per day. who told you your cya is 130? while definitely possible, I'm assuming that's a poo store reading. you should get your own kit soon. see pool school for the recommended ones. the one from http://www.tftestkits.net is the best value if you don't already have a kit.

I have the Taylor K-2006, and the CYA reading is past 100 so I am estimating it is 130 based on how far it is away from 100
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
Yes, order a good test kit, one of the recommended kits described in the article in Pool School.

Confirm the CYA is in fact 130, if it is, you need the free chlorine very high - at least 9-10 as your "min" and like 15 for your target for dosing - learn how to use the Pool Calculator to figure how much LQ that is..

You don't need to give up swimming while lowering the CYA. As long as your water isn't green or cloudy, why should you give up swimming? You can drain down a foot at a time, more if you can (low water table) draining more at once if possible allows less water usage overall. But I guess I don't see why you have to give up swimming.... Or is the water temp from the fresh fill that would bother you?

Lastly, Ditch the N2. Just toss the cartridge, open the flow line to the cannister to max so there's no obstruction, and just leave it in the plumbing line until you decide to remove it.


The reason i say give up swimming is because I was planning on replacing 1/3 to 1/2 of the water and didn't want my kids (4 and 8) jumping into a pool that isn't full, just a safety issue. I was just waiting for 1 day of bad/non swimming weather (I don't want to waste even 1 day of swimming :) )

How do I measure chlorine above 5 with my taylor k2006 kit???

The pool store confirmed my cya reading with a test strip. I was using powder chlorine with the stablizer in it. I didn't know that it makes the cya go up. It was the large chain pool store (i won't give the name). They don't recommend liquid chlorine at all and keep it behind the counter. hummm...
 
If you had a Taylor K-2006 you can test FC up to 50ppm with the FAS-DPD test.

You put powder in the pool water sample, you swirl, the water turns pink. Then you start adding the titrant, drop by drop, counting drops till the solution changes to clear.

Perhaps you have the K-2005, which uses a comparator view tube and only goes up to 5?

My bad on the swimming issue, I wasn't sure if you were going to try to do more than a foot at a time.... :lol:

You should supplement your kit with an FAS-DPD test if that's not part of your kit, and if you don't have the CYA test, you should get one of those too....

In the meantime, you can do a 50/50 dilution with distilled water and test the FC up to 10.... that probably won't help much though.
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
If you had a Taylor K-2006 you can test FC up to 50ppm with the FAS-DPD test.

You put powder in the pool water sample, you swirl, the water turns pink. Then you start adding the titrant, drop by drop, counting drops till the solution changes to clear.

Perhaps you have the K-2005, which uses a comparator view tube and only goes up to 5?

My bad on the swimming issue, I wasn't sure if you were going to try to do more than a foot at a time.... :lol:

You should supplement your kit with an FAS-DPD test if that's not part of your kit, and if you don't have the CYA test, you should get one of those too....

In the meantime, you can do a 50/50 dilution with distilled water and test the FC up to 10.... that probably won't help much though.

Thanks, a closer look and you are correct i have the 2005 kit. I want to invest in the best test kit, would the K-2006C the one???
 
The BEST kit, IMHO....is the TF100 sold by TFTestkits.net (Duraleigh on this forum). (Unfortunately he can't ship to Canada - not sure where you are located.) The K-2006 is the next best. The K-2006-C just has a bit more reagent on some of the tests compared to the k-2006.
 
Specifically, this kit. The rest of the TF100 and the K-2006 is essentially the same as what you already have so just getting the FAS-DPD chlorine test is the best thing to do at this point. If you are doing a lot of CYA tests, you can get the CYA supplement also shown on that same page I linked to.
 

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