Bromine Levels maxed out

[jahkneefive]

Brand new to the pool world. I have a 25K gallon salt water pool and have been having chemical issues that I can't seem to get straight. My buddy has a pool and has tried to give me some pointers, but they don't seem to be helping.

Pool:
25K gallons
Autopilot salt system set to 3200 ppm
water temp hovers between 78-83 (SW Florida)
DE filter, pump runs 6hrs a day.
I am the only one at the house and the pool gets used maybe once a week.


Ok the issue is my bromine and chlorine levels are through the roof. I've tried 2 different brand test kits and both peg out those 2. PH is showing normal to a tad high, TA is back down to normal though it was high, and hardness is normal. I've been adding muratic acid in 1qt "bombs", but it doesn't seem to have any affect. My buddy mentioned it could be MPS "goosing" the readings, but from what I understand that is from shock and I have yet to shock the pool since I've had the house (almost 2 months). That being said the water "looks" and feels fine. No cloudy or debris issues and I can open my eyes with zero burn. Water has a very light salt taste to it.

 

[reebok]

pool-school/ read everything under pool chemistry
pool-school/read_before_you_post

 

[JohnT]

You need to shut down the generation rate on your SWCG. Usually set in percent.

Saying readings are normal or high isn't much help, since those are really typical readings, and what is high in one pool may be low in another, depending on the other chemistry and equipment.

 

[Guest]

If you have a SWG you are using chlorine and not bromine so ignore the bromine reading. You also need a better test kit that can test highe FC levels as we talk about in Pool School.

What do you mean by 'bombs" of Muriatic Acid? Is that to try and lower TA? Slugging acid in one spot is a myth that does not work.
acid-column-myth-t1089.html
What kind of test kits are you using?
"Normal" does not tell us anything, we need numbers!
If you take the time to read pool school it will help you tremendously!\
You might also find this thread helpful
water-balance-tips-for-a-swg-t3663.html

Finally, have you read the instrucition manual for your SWG? It will tell you how to adjust the percentage and cell power level AFTER you have properly balanced your water (pH, TA, CH, and most important CYA which should be 80 ppm in Florida!

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Yes, Pool School is where you need to go right now.

First off, you are using chlorine, not Bromine, correct? So ignore references to Bromine.

Also, MPS Is good for indoor pools and spas, but not useful in an outdoor pool and if you use it, can show up as CC's on your chlorine test skewing results on an OTO test, if that's what you have? You add 5 drops and the solution turns yellow?

But you are saying you have not used MPS?

It may be your chlorine levels are high because your SWG is set too high.

Without a full set of test results, we are just guessing.

FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA

You want a good test kit, one that includes the FAS-DPD chlorine test. There is an article in Pool School that compares the two kits we recommend.

Hope this helps.