New believer in conversion, I'm doing it!

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With a cartridge filter, you probably can't vacuum to waste. You should still vacuum up as much as you possibly can and clean the cart as needed.

Did you do an overnight FC loss test last night? It sounds like you are getting towards the end, and the overnight FC loss test will tell you just how close.
 
That means you are in the final stage of the conversin, but still have a few days to go. At this point you the most efficient use of chlorine is to only add more in the evenings. The process will be over sooner if you add chlorine during the day, but that will use more total chlorine.
 
FC dropped from 15 to 13 overnight! I think I'm getting ever closer.

Should I start checking other things such as PH, CC or anything? I believe I read that adjusting PH should be done while FC's are low.

It's been raining like crazy here so I found a way to vacuum out the junk on the bottom while letting out the extra water.

Water is still cloudy white, but I've been brushing and vacuuming and stirring it all up.
 
FC's dropped to 13 overnight. Topped up at 7:00 am and at 8:00 am it was still 15.
At 8:00 pm, FC was zero (FULL sun all day). I tested the CC also at 8:00 pm and it was zero. I tested the CC's before when the FC were high, and the CC's were above 5. Going to top up again now.

So, here's the numbers.

7:00 am
FC 13

8:00 am
FC 15

8:00 pm
FC 0
PH 6.8 (tested for the heck of it)
CC 0

Water getting clearer.
 
OK, I only lost one ppm of FC last night, so I'm going to get my CYA and new filter cart. today.

Just so I'm sure, all I have to do is add the cya, change the filter and wait till CC's fall to .5 and hold for two days, and keep up shock levels. The CC's fall on their own? Is this correct?

I think I'm almost there!
 

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Hey, I've got my CYA and my new filter but I haven't put it in yet because I'm still seeing a little baquagoo in the old filter. I've been brushing and vacuuming to get the last little bit of stuff off the bottom before I go ahead. Is it OK to change the cart. and add the CYA even if I still see a little goo in the filter?
 
If you see any baqgoo in the pool you should clean it up before changing the filter media. But baqgoo in the filter isn't a problem. Getting the baqgoo out of the filter is the reason for changing the media.
 
No, the OTO test, drops turn the sample various shades of yellow, measures TC, which is FC+CC.

You measure the CC level with the FAS-DPD test, powder turns the sample pink and then drops turn it clear again. After the first round, which measures FC, you add five drops of R-0003 and then titrate back to clear again to measure the CC level. This should be described in your test kit instructions.
 
Hey yall, my three sons and they're freind went swimming today for the first time in months! I'm so gateful to everybody here for the help. I was at pinch-a-penny (a pool store) the other day buying chlorine and there was a lady there who was having trouble with phosphates (?) in her pool. She just bought the house and it was her first pool. I told her "troublefreepool.com", thats all you need to know.

So, my FC's were at 5 today after 4 boys were swimming in it for a couple of hours. I think that sounds pretty good. I'm thinking that I want to keep FC's at 5, maybe 6. I'l start to test everyday to see what they drop daily, and then go from there.

Please excuse all my dumba** questions, but here's another.
Can I use the OTO to test my FC's if I'm gonna keep them at 5? I know this is a total chorine test, but assuming my CC's are at zero (which they are), then will this be an accurate test Of FC's?

Thanks again!
 
The OTO test is best for a quick check of chlorine/no chlorine. It isn't possible to determine the exact amount of chlorine, as most people can't distinguish the various shades of yellow above 2 ppm. What many people do is to figure out a standard amount of chlorine that they add each day, and then use the OTO test daily just to make sure that nothing drastic has gone wrong. Then, once a week, they check with the FAS-DPD test to see if the standard amount of chlorine needs to be adjusted.
 

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