Not sure if my results are right. After adding 1 scoop of powder the water turned bright pink. I had to add 37 drops of R-871 for the water to turn clear. So, if I use the formula given on the sheet that means I've got a FC reading of 18.5ppm??!! I added the 5 drops of R-0003 and the water stayed clear which means I don't have any CC's. My SWG is stating I need to check salt. I got the sanitation level at 80%. Do I need to decrease the %? Please advise. Thank you.
Tested chlorine w/ FAS/DPD test for 1st time.
- Thread starter kgolby
- Start date
That sounds right, why have you had the setting so high?
I would turn it off, allow the FC to lower down to normal before you turn it back on. (This assumes of course you aren't trying to reach shock level.
)
I would turn it off, allow the FC to lower down to normal before you turn it back on. (This assumes of course you aren't trying to reach shock level.
)A couple of weeks ago when the PB first turned on the SWG it wasn't producing any chlorine so I adjusted it to 100% & then lowered it to 80%. The other chlorine test I have from another Taylor test kit just showed I had chlorine but I had no idea it was so high. The FAS/DPd test was recommended here so I purchased it. So glad I did b/c the results are much more accurate than looking at colors on a tube.
So all I need to do is reduce the % & nothing else?
So all I need to do is reduce the % & nothing else?
Did you use a 10 ml sampel size or a 25 ml sample size for this test?kgolby said:
IF you used the 10 ml sample size then your FC is 18.5 ppm.
IF you used a 25 ml sample size then your FC is 7.4 ppm.
Where is your CYA, btw?
There are many reports of Intellichlor SWG low salt readings here in the forums. You should get some good salt test strips and confirm your salt content before adding any more to your pool. Too much salt can cause more problems than not enough. The Intellichlor can be re-calibrated if necessary.
For reference, my IC-40 is set at 9% running 24/7 in my 12000 gallon pool. It produces enough chlorine to keep my water at 4 to 5 ppm depending on how much swimming my wife and I do.
For reference, my IC-40 is set at 9% running 24/7 in my 12000 gallon pool. It produces enough chlorine to keep my water at 4 to 5 ppm depending on how much swimming my wife and I do.
keri1973
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Not to interrupt but I also use that test (10ml) sample and I was told to add 2 scoops?? Do you only need to add 1??
Yes, I did the 10mL test. My CYA level is 65. I don't know how to turn off the SWG w/o turning off the pump. I think the PB has them wired to run together.
Keri, my instructions said to use 1 scoop. I've read on other threads here at FTP that some say 2 scoops so I would go by the directions that were in your kit.
Grumpy, how did you set your SWG at 9%. On mine the lowest setting is 20%. Can I program it manually for a custom setting?
Keri, my instructions said to use 1 scoop. I've read on other threads here at FTP that some say 2 scoops so I would go by the directions that were in your kit.
Grumpy, how did you set your SWG at 9%. On mine the lowest setting is 20%. Can I program it manually for a custom setting?
The amount of powder you use in the FAS/DPD test is not critical. If you have chlorine in your pool and the water turns pink or deep pink, you have enough.
keri1973
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My Intellichlor is connected to the Pentair Easy Touch controller. It will allow me to set any percentage that I choose. I suppose that, for manual units, the chlorine production below 20% is controlled by run time which is controlled by your pump run time.
By the way, the Intellichlor manual says that CYA should be between 70 and 80 ppm. You may want to bump yours up a bit.
By the way, the Intellichlor manual says that CYA should be between 70 and 80 ppm. You may want to bump yours up a bit.
I take issue with that statement on one minor point. From my experience there is a tipping point with the powder. Use too little and you will get innacurate results. When I first started with the test I was having problems with repeatability, and the first sign was varying shades of pink. The answer was simple, just use a little more powder, but it was difficult to come by.duraleigh said:
FWIW,
Dave
There are different sized scoops in some kits, and some directions call for level scoops and others for heaping scoops. It is possible to use too little of the powder and have problems, but it is very difficult to use too much of the powder, so it is better to add too much than risk adding too little.
In reference to your SWG setting: If 20% is as low as it will go, leave it set at that point until it reaches a safe minimum level. At 20%, it will likely drop. I am unfamiliar with the operation of your brand, so I cannot address specific settings. My manufacturer recommends an FC level of 1 to 3 with a CYA level of 60-80. This site recommends a slightly higher FC level. You would not just want to leave the pump turned off for an extended period of time to allow your FC to drop.
How long are you currently running the pump? I like the "One hour of run time per 10 degrees of water temperature" rule. In the winter when temps are 40 -50 degrees, I run my pump 4-5 hours and adjust the SWG setting weekly. In summer, I run it at 7-8 hours with a setting currently at 25%. I usually change the setting of the SWG and pump run time based on FC test results and as seasonal air temp changes. Also, I usually notice my water "sparkly" effect before my test results indicate the need for a change. If the water is dull, I need to kick up the run time. If it's sparkly after 6-7 hours of run time, I will stop the pump and save a few kilowatts.
In all honesty, I feel as though I need to run a disclaimer when I provide advice/ my opinion, as my pool water is not as I would like it to be. I am constantly chasing rising pH. I have high CH and scale. But, algae don't come 'round here.
FC: 2.8
CC: 0
TC: 2.8
pH: 7.7
TA: 70
CYA: 55+
CH 500
How long are you currently running the pump? I like the "One hour of run time per 10 degrees of water temperature" rule. In the winter when temps are 40 -50 degrees, I run my pump 4-5 hours and adjust the SWG setting weekly. In summer, I run it at 7-8 hours with a setting currently at 25%. I usually change the setting of the SWG and pump run time based on FC test results and as seasonal air temp changes. Also, I usually notice my water "sparkly" effect before my test results indicate the need for a change. If the water is dull, I need to kick up the run time. If it's sparkly after 6-7 hours of run time, I will stop the pump and save a few kilowatts.
In all honesty, I feel as though I need to run a disclaimer when I provide advice/ my opinion, as my pool water is not as I would like it to be. I am constantly chasing rising pH. I have high CH and scale. But, algae don't come 'round here.
FC: 2.8
CC: 0
TC: 2.8
pH: 7.7
TA: 70
CYA: 55+
CH 500
PB set the timer to run the pump 10 hrs a day. I haven't decreased it since the original setting. I'm in Jax, FL & 8-10 hrs seems to be common for the summertime. My pool has only been completed a little over a month so I know to expect crazy
swings in my test results. I decreased the % to 20% & we've been getting quite a bit of rain this week. I've had to drain the water a couple of times so I'm sure this will affect the chlorine level too.
swings in my test results. I decreased the % to 20% & we've been getting quite a bit of rain this week. I've had to drain the water a couple of times so I'm sure this will affect the chlorine level too.
reebok
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flinstone: are those pool store test results? it's kind of a moot point since you know that you need to be keeping your ph lower, esp since you already have scaling, but I was wondering because my pool stores told me CH was 399 (how they got that number I don't know) but when I got my tf100 test kit, turns out it's more like 625 and I had scale (though I thought it was misapplied plaster before I found this site). anyway just be aware your CH may be even higher, but of course the treatment is the same. you might look into a peristaltic(sp?) pump acid delivery system. cheaper than an acid wash. you also have a strange cya number (55+). there is a good article in pool school about water balance for swg's, but I'm mainly wondering about the accuracy of your test results.
reebok
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kgolby said:
as you continue to read here, you will find that there are many common themes in standard pool care, and many of them are inaccurate or less than ideal. have you read this article?
pool-school/water_balance_saltwater_generator
reebok said:
I tested my CH today and it was 675 and I thought I did something wrong. What have you read to decrease this high number? My FC is still pretty high but it's coming down. I've had the SWG at 20% since Friday and when I tested the water today the FC is 12.5ppm. CYA was 75 so I feel good w/ that number. pH is a little high but the water is sparkling clear. Seems like one day I've got great results on some tests and bad results on others. Then another day it flip flops. Does anyone else experience this?
reebok
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CH is decreased by water replacement as long as your fill water is lower.
pool-school/pool_water_chemistry
you can try doing the test a different (less accurate) way to confirm your reading.
water-testing-instructions-on-one-page-t11306.html
follow the instructions that are in the brackets for the CH test.
your results shouldn't vary wildly, but each test has a margin of error. just do it slowly and follow the instructions step by step.
pool-school/pool_water_chemistry
you can try doing the test a different (less accurate) way to confirm your reading.
water-testing-instructions-on-one-page-t11306.html
follow the instructions that are in the brackets for the CH test.
your results shouldn't vary wildly, but each test has a margin of error. just do it slowly and follow the instructions step by step.
The test you posted is exactly the test I did yesterday. The solution says to replace he water. The problem is, here in Jax, FL, we have hard water. Lots of calcium buildup. So how do I correct this? Are there chemicals to lower CH? Or do I just pour in a ton of Muriatic acid?
If your fill water has high CH then you just live with it. Acid won't help (that lowers pH and TA not CH). High CH can be manageable if you are careful with your other water parameters. If you post a full set of results we can help you with that.
--paulr
--paulr