Pool remodeling.

May 22, 2009
42
I need to remodel my pool. I have a kidney shaped, paster, apprx. 15K - 16K gal pool and by remodeling I mean, re-plastering and re-tiling. I also need to take out the coping that goes around the pool and fix the concrete around the pool. I submitted couple quotes request, but need to find what are the right questions I need to ask the contractor? Most importantly what are the correct answers to those questions?

Thanks.
 
That's a big project! :shock:

Here's the order I'd do the phases in.

1) loose the coping, check the bond beam for integrity

2) Get the old tile off and sound the marcite for hollow areas, and remove them

3) Sand blast and/ or acidwash the plaster so the new coat will properly bond

4) Pressure test plumbing - no sense doing all this if you have a plumbing issue that needs to be addressed and may involve breaking out part of the shell

5) Put on new coping and tile

6) Replaster pool

7) Repour the deck

8) Enjoy pool and have a couple strong drinks to help you forget all the $$$ you just spent :mrgreen:

I hope you realize that we would really like to see pics of the process 8)
 
Thanks, I will try to post pictures.

I just got an estimate and these are some of the items.


1. Replaster pool using 36,000 PSI water-blasting for mechanical etching.
2. Refill and set water chemistry using United Chemicals products
3. Supervision and job management

First item - The contractor wants to completely remove the plaster and apply a new one. My current plaster is in good conditions. I will tell him that sandblasting and acid wash should be enough.

Second item - Bogus charge. That is completely unnecessary. I would imagine that I do not need spend over $500 for this. What do I need to do when re-filling the pool with new water?

Third item - I have not seen anyone charging for Supervision and job management. Is this normal, or the contractor just want to rip me off?
 
Please note that I skipped a couple details in my description - I assume whoever is doing the work knows to notch the old plaster and remove all the plaster ~ 1" below the tile so the new coat will properly adhere & also resound the plaster the day before the new coat goes on.

I don't know about the water etching - we used a complicated tool (called an axe :p ) to notch the existing plaster.

Tell them that YOU will take care of the chemistry - but they may require you to let them do it to keep from voiding the warranty :|

I'll assume #3 is because they will 'sub out' all the work so they want to be paid for providing a warranty on a job they never touched :|

Just check with them on what chems they will use and then report back here :-D

I think you'll have to play by their rules if you want any sort of warranty on the job :(
 
I don't feel qualified to answer these questions (other than to say a sequestrant is a chemical that binds metals and keeps them from staining the pool surface - and I'm sure this explaination is far from technically correct :roll: :wink: ). I'm bumping this in hopes that the chem crowd here will see it and answer :goodjob:

If this stands unanswered tomorrow, I'll try to get the attention of the guys here that can answer this for you :-D
 
Sequestrant binds to metals in the water and prevents them from staining the plaster. It also helps keep calcium scale from forming, calcium is really a "metal" in this context. Fresh plaster has a tendency to raise the PH very rapidly, which tends to cause calcium scaling, which is very expensive to remove. If you are really good about keeping the PH under control, there is no need for sequestrant, but if you miss a day, having sequestrant in the water can save you some expensive and unsightly calcium scaling. (Don't take this as an excuse to ignore the PH, the PH still needs to be kept under control even with sequestrant.) As long as you have copper or iron in your water you need to use sequestrant regularly. If you are using it to help control calcium scaling with fresh plaster, you only need to use it for the first month or six weeks.

An acid start is simpler than a conventional start, but it can cause some minor issues if you have a heater with a copper heat exchange coil that you can't bypass while the PH is really low. Normally it is best to leave this up to the plaster people. Frequently the plaster people will specify their preferred startup technique and require following it in order to honor the warranty.
 
I would get a couple more quotes and compare. Depending on your industry and company practices, it is sometimes normal to bill supervision and job management as a sep line item.

but it does not bode well he wants to charge you to refill pool and do initial chem balance.
 

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