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Thread: Scented Bleach Goof

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    Scented Bleach Goof

    I have shocked with what I thought to be regular bleach because it said "regular scent". However, upon closer inspection, I notice it does not have the typical chlorine smell. I have put several bottles of this in my pool over the last 2 weeks. The water is extremely murky and I can't get rid of the green algae, even with a copper algaecide. Could this bleach be causing the murky water problem, and if so, what can I do about it? The pool is a vinyl liner, 32,000 IG. Someone please tell me what to do! I am in dispair!

    In looking on-line, all I see is not to use this in your pool, but no advice as to what to do if it does happen.

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    Re: Scented Bleach Goof

    The copper-based algaecide is not helpful and could be harmful.....I suggest you not use any more of it.

    The bleach you have used is in there now so don't worry, there's nothing you can do and it will cause little harm. In fact, someone else will have to help me, but, depending on brand, "regular scent" may just be unscented.

    Now, it's almost impossible to help you get your pool clear without a starting point......like directions to a point on a map, the directions to clear your pool are totally dependent on where you currently are. The best thing you could do next is to post CURRENT test results for chlorine, pH, ALK, CH and, importantly, CYA. Read the stickies at the top of the home page for more info on what these all mean. This is a great site for getting your pool water sparkling but it'll take a little time and a little homework.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3
    If it is Clorox brand you bought, the Regular bleach is the same as unscented 6% ultra bleach. Read the label to be sure of the concentration, as the change may not have occurred in all markets yet.

    Many here buy the unscented Great Value brand Ultra from Wal Mart.

    8200 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, manually chlorinated with 10% liquid, salt added to ~2000, 12" sand filter, 2000gph pump, TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, Chlorine/CYA Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

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    Test Results

    Thanks for the quick replies. The bleach I used was from K Mart and their American Fare Brand. I was careful not to get the scented and thought the regular scented was ok--but it does have a different smell.
    My test results as of yesterday that were done at the pool store:
    FC= 2.2
    TC= 2.2
    CC= 0
    pH= 7.8
    Hardness= 110
    Alkilinity= 220
    CYA= was not tested because they were out of reagent, but was 40 prior to yesterday--had been as high as 70
    TDS= 1

    I was told 2 weeks ago that the phosphate level was way too high and did put a phosphate remover in that brought it down.
    They have suggested changing the sand. Would this be helpful? I am discouraged!

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    j,

    I was told 2 weeks ago that the phosphate level was way too high and did put a phosphate remover in that brought it down.
    They have suggested changing the sand. Would this be helpful? I am discouraged!
    Based on the above advice, I would disregard further info from the poolstore. Chlorine alone will clear your pool.....it's the best and it's all you need. You would do yourself a disservice by adding anything else at this point.

    If you've not already done so, use the nifty calculator in any of Jasonlion's posts.....you're gonna' need it frequently. Then, calculate how much 6% bleach you need to bring your chlorine up to a total of 20ppm and put it in there. You will see a rapid depletion of that chlorine level so test again about 12 hours after you put it in and bring it back up to 20ppm. Continue that process until your pool clears. It may take a few days but it is important you understand that you keep replenishing the chlorine on a continual basis......that's what will clear your pool.

    During this process, it is important that you brush the pool at least once or twice daily and backflush your filter when you notice a 30 - 50% rise in your filter pressure. Don't be surprised if you have to back wash very soon after that first big dose of chlorine...you're gonna' kill a lot of algae quickly and it will accumulate in the filter.

    Synopsis: Chlorine is all you need to clear your pool....lot's of it and keep it up there. After your pool clears, you can fine tune some other small issues but there's nothing dangerous in any of your posted test results.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  6. Back To Top    #6
    Guest
    regular scent bleach is what you want to use. I am going to make a guess that you shocked becuase you had algae. To kill algae you need to keep the chlorine level up by constant additions because the chlorine will be quickly consumed. Your test results are suspect because a TDS of 1 is impossible unless the pool is filled with deionized water and there are NO chemical in it at all. Your hardness and TA leads me to believe that your pool might be cloudy because of calcium carbonate precipitating out and clouding the water. Also, dead algae will make the water cloudy. Keep adding bleach to keep your pool at about 15 ppm until the algae is gone and the pool is clear and then address the high TA!

    You should post a full set of test results including CYA because this will determine how high you need to shock to kill the algae. I would recommend getting a good testkit and testing your own water. The TF testkit would be an excellent choice.

  7. Back To Top    #7

    When to put in bleach

    waterbear:

    Do I keep adding the bleach during the day when the sun is out, or wait until evening? Is my pH too high?

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Guest
    Add bleach at least twice a day, more is better, to maintain the 15 ppm FC level until the FC holds overnight. When your FC is holding at 15 ppm overnight then you can let the FC drop to normal. Your pH is fine for now but you should retest it after you have finished shocking and the FC has dropped to normal levels. Never try and test or adjust pH when your pool is at shock level since the high chlorine level will cause your pH to register higher than it actually is. This is a chemical interference between the pH indicator, phenol red, and the high chlorine levels.

    Note that if your CYA is higher than 40 ppm you might need to have your FC higher than 15 ppm but we really need an accurate CYA test that is recent to know just how high you can go without bleaching your liner.

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