Green water but still fighting

MJeff

0
Jun 27, 2009
4
Have been fighting green water for a week or more (getting lighter but still green)...found your site and what a life saver...I think there is light at the end of the tunnel (and not an oncoming train) but I would really have liked to swim tomorrow but doubtful at this point...tried draining water to reduce CYA and it is down but still no luck with getting water clear. Ph has been up and now down and just starting to get some movement with the Free/Total Chlorine. TA coming down. Really like the BBB solution but Borax is non-existant here (everyone must be reading your posts). What am I missing - bought a better test kit, brushing pool several times a day. Chlorine was holding through the night. Any ideas sincerely appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Current readings as of 10:00 pm
pH - 6.8
TA - 100
FC - 2
TC - 3
CH - 220
CYA - 100
 
You need to get the CYA down to 60-70 at the very least, 100 is still too high. You still need to shock the pool, you aren't done yet. Refer to the CYA chart for your shock level, but i'd drain some more first.

Read How to Shock your Pool.

You have a CC of 1, you need to shock until it is .5 or less.

Which test kit did you get?

If you can't find Borax, you need to get traditional "ph up" from walmart or the pool store, and get it in there tomorrow. If you can find anyplace open tomorrow....

Low PH is very bad for your pool surface, equipment, etc.
 
Is there a relationship between CYA and Shock needed - I have put I know 40 bags so far with 7 today and non seem to be working...

Which test kit did you get? From Leslie - they didn't have the one the site recommends but sold me the DPD Test Kit..

If you can't find Borax, you need to get traditional "ph up" from walmart or the pool store, and get it in there tomorrow. If you can find anyplace open tomorrow....I have some "ph up" but some in today but obviously not enough - will baking soda work or will that take me in the other direction?

Thanks for quick response...
 
Baking soda is for raising TA. Borax raises PH. IF you can't find Borax then get PH UP/soda ash.

the higher the CYA level, the higher the FC must be- see the chart.

40 bags of what? IF the bags were Dichlor, they are raising your CYA level, and lowering your PH. If they are Cal-Hypo, they are raising your CH level.

You should use bleach or liquid chlorine to shock. You do not want to use Dichlor when you already have CYA levels too high.

You need to do a partial drain and refill, asap. or you will just fight a losing battle.

Unfortunately you need the FAS-DPD test. Your DPD test is not going to be sufficient for your situation, since it can only test up to 5 FC, 10 with dilution. YOu need to be able to test up to your shock level, which currently is about 40. :shock: That's why you need to lower the CYA!

You should order the FAS-DPD test to supplement your kit. IT can test FC up to 50ppm and is more precise, it's not a color-comparison test, it's a drop count test. NO guesswork.

TFtestkits.net and Taylor both sell the separate test for about $25.
 
Thanks.. will start fighting again tomorrow...

P.S. I was using liquid bleach - saw someone else that said they needed to order a truck load - same feeling. Wanted to try quicker option and went to dichlor....but I'll try to get more liquid tomorrow and do that - I am sure Walmart will be open...
 
No more Dichlor! :whip: :mrgreen:

Believe me, I know you don't want to but draining is what you need to do. The 7 bags of Dichlor today increased your CYA level by at least 20. It may not be fully registering on tests.

By adding the Dichlor, you added back the CYA you drained out. :shock:

You need to get your CYA down to 60-70 in order for you to successfully manage shocking the pool.
 
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