Can I trust the results from my pool kit & why all the bugs?

[kgolby]

Ok, I've got 2 sets of questions and hopefully I'll get some great advice.

1. Pool has been completed almost a month ago. We've got approx. a 23K freeform pool w/ a Intellichlor SWG. PB gave us a basic pool kit and after reading the recommendations on TFP I purchased the pool testing kit at Leslie's this morning. I got the following readings.

FC - 3
pH - 7.0
TA - 20
CYA - 90
Salt - w/in good range

We've got a lot of creaming on our pebble finish and 3 gallons of Muriatic acid were poured into the pool to help speed up the process. My understanding is Muriatic acid will reduce pH. So how do I increase the pH but at the same time I'll be pouring at least 2 gallons of Muriatic acid in weekly until the creaming is gone? For what its worth, my pH was too high at the beginning of the week. Though I was using the test kit provided by the pool builder so I don't know if those results are reliable. How do I know if the results I got today are correct?

2. Every morning I clean the pool with the net. I'm a little compulsive about stuff floating in the pool. Anyway, is it normal to have bugs in the pool every day? Our pool is enclosed so I wouldn't think we would have so many bugs. Also, I live in FL. The bugs are dead & are very small ants, ants w/ wings, and what looks like very tiny beetles. If this is common then I'll accept it and be OCD about cleaning my pool. If not, does this mean my skimmer may not be working properly? Don't know if this matters but we've got a natural stacked stone wall w/ 3 waterfall scuppers. I've noticed the shallow end and by the waterfalls is where I scoop out the most bugs. The skimmer is in the deep end and it doesn't have much in the basket - mostly hair, some bugs, and grass. Just wondering if the sand from our paver deck and/or the natural stone is where the bugs are coming from.

Thank you for any advice you can provide. This is my first pool so I know some of my concerns may be normal.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Hi and Welcome.

You need to get some baking soda in your pool today. You're TA is too low you should adjust it up to 100. Use the pool calculator to determine how much Baking Soda you need to add. The muratic acid additions have made the TA drop too low.

Which test kit did you get? Is it the FAS-DPD test kit, that can test chlorine up to 50? (It's got a little powder/scoop test as part of the kit)

I'm not sure what you mean by creaming? Do you mean plaster dust?

For more tips on starting up a new plaster pool, read this article in Pool School.

Bugs - do you mean enclosed in a sreened in room? I think the presence of bugs is normal, and if the skimmer basket has stuff in it, it is working properly.

 

[kgolby]

Thank you for the reply.

Yes, our pool is inside a screen room. I'm glad to know the bugs are normal as crazy as that sounds. I guess I'll be wearing out the pool net in no time scooping up those little "buggers".

The kit I purchased at Leslie's is the Complete Poolcare DPD Test Kit - $53. No, it doesn't have the powder in this kit. There was another kit for sale around $100 but I thought the one I purchased had all the tests I needed.

By "creaming" I mean the white streaks that are visible on the finish. I brush daily but the only way I've seen improvement is w/ the Muriatic acid. This seems to be normal b/c other people with pebble finishes have the same experience. I was just wondering how do I balance the pH when I'll be pouring MA each week to help with the streaks?

I'm going to the pool calculator now to figure out the baking soda component.

Thanks again.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Unfortunately that's not the right kit - you got the re-branded Taylor K-2005.

You need to supplement your kit with the FAS-DPD chlorine test, TFtestkits.net and Taylor sell the separate test for about $25. It's essential - the best investment you can make to protect your investment.

You can check back at the store and see if they sell just that separate test. Otherwise you'll have to order it online.

The PH will continue to rise as the plaster cures. This lasts up to a year. The PH will rise rapidly the first month, daily acid additions are not unusual. You don't want to go to low on PH though, I wouldn't go below 7.0 streaks or not....and you also need to keep an eye on the TA to keep that balanced as well.

If I'm wrong about the PH/streaks the folks with more knowledge will be along to correct me.

 

[kgolby]

You'll have to forgive me for my ignorance but what is the advantage of having this other chlorine test kit?

Also, on the pool calculator it asked for a Borate score. I don't have a test for borates. Will that affect the results I'm getting for the soda ash? I read about the suggestion of adding borates into the pool as well as the caution of pets drinking too much of the water. I have a 6 yr. old son w/ Autism who tends to drink some of the pool water even though I'm trying to teach him not to. Would adding borates to the pool not be suggested since he does have tendency to drink the pool water?

Forgot to post my CH level - 450.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Borates are completely optional, and it's something you may choose to do when your son is older.

The FAS-DPD test is a titrant drop count test, similar to the TA test, where you count the number of drops watching for a color change. Unlike your test, which is a color comparator on a view tube, and it can be quite subjective as to what the level actually is.

What happens is you take a sample, add the DPD powder, the solution will turn pink. Then you add the reagent, drop by drop, counting until the color changes from pink to clear. It's precise down to .2 or .5 for FC levels, depending on the sample size. You add another reagent, and the solution turns pink again IF CCs are present. Then you add the first reagent, again counting drops till it turns clear. This tells you exactly how many CCs you have, if any. As I said, you can't get any more precise.

Your test is limited in that you can only test up to 5 FC, 10 with dilution. The FAS-DPD is particularly useful because it can test so much higher, so when shocking is required you know your exact levels and there is no guesswork. Almost everyone's shock level will be higher than 10. If you can't test for it, how would you know if you ever reached it? KWIM? Also, because it can test to .5 and .2, you can be 100% certain when FC holds overnight to a 1ppm or less loss, which indicates no organics and you can be done shocking. Other chlorine tests cannot determine this with such precision, which often leads to prolonged periods of cloudy water, uncertain if the algae is dead, etc.

With a high CH level, be certain not to use any cal-hypo products, and keep your PH no higher than 7.6 to avoid any possible scaling situations.

Hope this helps explain things better.

 

[kgolby]

Gotcha!! Thank you so VERY much for the great explanations. This is my first pool and I feel like I'm reading Latin sometimes. The resources here are great & I truly appreciate you sharing your expertise for all of us new pool owners.