Multiple Pool Problems

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R

rocky

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Jun 30, 2009
62
Just found this website and hope to use this forum to clear up the pool water.

On 26 June returned home after being gone for two weeks. Had a major algae bloom. Water was green. Measured water parameters with test strips: TH 500, TC 0, FC 0, pH 8.2, TA 160, CYA 30. I backwashed sand filter. Added muratic acid and got pH to 7.2. Started adding dichlor shock to kill off algae. It is now 2 July I have added 21 lbs of dichlor. This morning after doing the first of three daily backwashes the readings are: TH 100, TC5, FC 5, pH 7.2, TA 100, CYA 20. I added 192 ounces of bleach. Each morning and evening I add enough shock to get the FC to at least 10ppm. The water is no longer green but it is not clear. What do I do next? I am in the transition mode of switching to the BBBs and need to order a good test kit.

PS:
How do I access the UCP so I can enter signature data?
 
Welcome to TFP :wave:

UCP...top of webpage, right under the TFP logo

First you need to determine if you are done shocking by performing an overnight FC drop test...but you will need a dropper based kit or possibly a FAS DPD kit such as the one in the TF100 which can be ordered from TFTESTKITS.net (note you can also just order the FAS-DPD), but given you are using strips, which are not reliable I would go for the whole kit ro you can also get the Taylor K2006 test kit...basically the same as the TF100, except you get more reagent with the TF100. Ok now that I'm done with the advertising plug for Dave :goodjob: you are done shocking when you lose 1ppm or less of FC overnight, as descibed in pool school. Once you are done shocking and since you have a sand filter, it could easily take two weeks to clear the murky water, which would be pale gray/blue and not green.

Also...are you backwashing three times a day, because your pressure is rising 8psi each time? If not there is not need to backwash so frequently, a slightly "dirty" filter will actually pick up more dead algae that sand that is constantly being cleaned...hope this helps some...good luck
 
How do I access the UCP so I can enter signature data?
Click to expand...

Welcome to TFP! :-D

Easy! Just click on the "User Control Panel" hyperlink that sits on the home page under the TFP logo. Then, click the "profile" hyperlink. Then, click the "edit signature" hyperlink. Add your info and you're good to go. Please limit the signature to five lines please. :goodjob:
 
21 lbs of dichlor in 21,000 gallons will have raised the CYA level by 60. So, your current CYA level can't possibly be 20. Test strips can be amazingly wrong sometimes, as they appear to be here. It is nearly impossible to properly take care of a pool when you are getting incorrect test results. I strongly recommend that you get a top quality test kit. Then you can tell what is really going on. I suggest a kit from TFTestKits.Net. The Taylor K-2006 is also good, though not as good a deal.
 
The TF 100 test kit is great. Wish I had it before the water turned green from algae. Here are the particulars: filter on 24 hours per day, automatic cleaner on 8 hours per day, water color is between milky and bluish. Since getting the test kit I have added 15 bottles (96 ounces each) of bleach. I can finally see the automatic pool cleaner in the 3 ft end of the pool. Yesterday morning before sunrise the water parameters were
FC 22
CC .5
TA 140
CYA 65
pH 7.5
Last evening only checked the FC and CC. The FC was 15 and CC was .5. Early this AM I retested the water and had FC of 15 and CC was .5.

What do I need to do next? I plan to test for FC and CC each day. I would like to see the CC less than .2 ppm. Is this possible? Should I wait for the FC to get into the 1 to 3 ppm range before shocking with bleach? Is the pool safe to swim in with these elevated levels of FC?

Thanks for your assistance.
 
so you're saying you did the overnight fc loss test correct? sounds like it, and it sounds like the algae is dead because you had no loss. your cc's are fine at .5. I used to have .5 all the time, but lately it's been 0. .5 or less is no big deal. as I understand it, cc's are always there because the chlorine is always breaking down stuff. sometimes it's measurable and sometimes it's not.
so sounds like you just need some POP while the filter clears the dead algae. you can swim up to shock level (see chlorine/cya chart in pool school) so you can swim now if you don't mind swimming with algae carcasses.
as I read your post again, I have to wonder if you've read pool school. this 1-3ppm fc thing is irrelevant for your cya level. let it get to those levels and you'll get algae again. you're done shocking. just follow the chlorine/cya chart and read pool school, particularly the water chemistry section.
 
The overnight test didn't show any FC loss, so the algae is all dead. Now you need to wait for the filter to clear up the water. That can take a week, occasionally more. The water should show a visible improvement each day. While this is happening, keep an eye on the filter pressure and backwash the filter as needed.

You can let the FC level drift down to normal levels (as appropriate for your CYA level) while you are waiting for the water to finish clearing up. With CYA at 65, normal chlorine levels are from 5 to 10.

In most pools it is fairly easy to get CC down to zero, or really close to zero. It might take a few days of somewhat elevated chlorine levels and lots of sunlight on the water to get there.

I have no problem swimming when FC is anywhere from the min to shock level for the current CYA level. Some people are more conservative, others will swim even at much higher FC levels.

Post #10,000.
 
I don't want to panic over this mornings readings but at the same time I don't want the pool water to go green again. I did the overnight chlorine drop test and the FC dropped from 13 to 12 ppm. However, the CC appeared to have reduced from .5 to 0 ppm. Is the "heaping" amount of the R-0870 critical to this test? In last night's test I had a big "heaping" scoop. Today I only had a "heaping" scoop. I thought I also did an accurate count of the drops of the reagents. Here are this morning's readings:
FC 12 ppm
CC 0 ppm
CYA 65 ppm
 

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You are doing just fine. Having CC go down is great.

The amount of R-0870 powder doesn't need to be exact. Generally, any amount that gets the sample to turn a solid pink color is plenty. Certainly, slight variations in how heaping the spoon is won't make any difference.
 
Well here I am again. Got .5 inches of rain this afternoon and the pool water is starting to look greenish. Here are my after sundown, 7 PM, readings:
FC 9.5 ppm
CC .5 ppm
CYA 85 ppm
TA 120 ppm
pH 7.8 ppm

According to the CYA to FC chart, my FC is above the minimum of 6 and in range of the target FC. Do I need to add bleach and get to the Shock level? Should I lower the pH? How about the CYA level? Should I do a partial drain and refill?

I am brushing the wall at least twice a day. Should I set the automatic cleaner to operate 24/7. Sand filter is on 24/7. The pressure is only 2 psi above normal.

Surely I will have clear balanced pool water this swimming season??
 
I'm not familiar with the Nature 2 system. Is that putting some minerals in your water that may be reacting and giving off the green color?. I cannot imagine getting 1/2 inch of rain and it causing your pool to turn green.
 
Nature2 introduces silver (or zinc) and copper ions into the pool so if not properly regulated or if the pH rises too much it can lead to metal staining. If the water is green, it could be that the copper level is too high. There is no need for using a Nature2 system in a properly chlorinated pool with sufficient Free Chlorine (FC) relative to the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level.
 
chem geek said:
Nature2 introduces silver (or zinc) and copper ions into the pool so if not properly regulated or if the pH rises too much it can lead to metal staining. If the water is green, it could be that the copper level is too high. There is no need for using a Nature2 system in a properly chlorinated pool with sufficient Free Chlorine (FC) relative to the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level.
Click to expand...

Thanks Richard. So do you think it may be the culprit for the OP's problems? The rain may be acidic and is causing a green copper reaction in the water?
 
Don't know, but acid wouldn't usually cause the problem. It's higher pH that causes coloring and staining with metal ions (high carbonate levels can also be a problem so really high TA can also be an issue, but again it's usually high pH that is the primary trigger).
 
Is the recommendation for me to take out the Nature2 cartridge? Rainfall in the pool last night measured 1.4 inches. I did the overnight test for chlorine drop here are the readings:
FC 6.5
CC .5
Looks like the overnight drop in FC is 3 ppm. That don't appear to be good. Where is the FC going?
I didn't measure the CYA since it should not have been higher than last night's reading. Also figured the 1.4 inches of rain, which has to be pumped out, would lower it slightly.
 
FC loss is attributed to sunlight and organics. If you have a 3ppm overnight loss, it's organics. However, we don't usually rely on overnight loss results when it has been raining.

Ditch the N2. Pronto. :whip:

Lower the PH to 7.4.

Repeat the overnight loss test when you won't have any rain interfering.
 
1. The Nature 2 cartridge has been removed.
2. Here is a brief recap: Yesterday the water was greenish. Had chlorine drop of 3 ppm overnight. PM water measurements were
FC 5
CC .5
TA - not measured
CYA - not measured. but previously 85
pH 7.8
Added 32 oz muriatic acid and 4 each 96 oz bleach (all I had).
Vacuumed to waste and then added water.
3. Today's AM water measurements were
FC 15.5
CC .5
TA 110
CYA 75
pH 7.6

4. Water still looks greenish. What do I do next? I have opened the can of POP (but the contents are getting low).
 

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