First Test - Newbie

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T

tammysue i

0
Jun 28, 2009
5
Hi Everybody -
I just got my test kit in and here are the results of my first test:

FC - 3.5
CC - .5
TC - 4
PH - 7.2
T/A - 600
CH - 460
CYA - 50
On my salt level test the top band turned dark but their is barley any white on the bottom maybe three lines up (not to the one mark)

Thanks for your help
Tammy Sue in Texas
 
Hey, TS,

Welcome to the forum! :lol:

1. I can't remember....tell us how your water looks.

2. Your numbers are all pretty good with two exceptions that will require some attention.

The first one is your TA of 600. That's very high and there are two possibilities.....testing error or it really is that high. I suspect testing error. During the TA test the R-0009 (that's the one you count) can develop static electricity and cause the drops to come out of the bottle very small (they almost shoot off the end rather than fall). If that's your case, redo the test and wipe the dropper tip every few drops with a damp cloth or paper towel. That should get you a much lower result. The other possibility is a mixup in the procedure on the test. reread the instructions and make sure you have added all the right "stuff" in the right amount. Post back your findings.

The other issue is your CH but that's a long term thing that can be manged pretty easily. Let's discuss that after we resolve the TA question.
 
Sorry for the bad info:

It is an inground pool

Pool water is clear

TA - 170

Also white calcuim flakes have been comming from the jets in the pool and hot tub. I have acid washed the SWG and the filter.
We have been brushing the pool sides but not every day.
We have some green algea on the rocks, grout and a little on the tile.
We have black spots of algea in the bottom of the pool.

Thanks for answering so fast!
 
1. The TA of 170 is a tad high but manageable for now. I would suggest dealing with it later.

2. The presence of visible algae certainly indicates the need to shcok your pool. Using Clorox, (not the SWG) bring your FC up to 20ppm and hold it up there by constantly testing and readding clorox until the algae is gone and your pool is crystal clear. You may have to add Clorox 2-3 times daily to keep it at 20 but the idea is to hold that very high FC level and you will eliminate the algae. Read "How to shock your Pool" in Pool School for more details.

3. Once you complete the shock process....and it is a process not a one time dosage.....I think you will be able to turn down the % on your SWG significantly.....that's a good thing.

4. You CH is a little to high and is likely contrubuting to the white flakes you see. Perform a CH test on the fill water that you use to refill the pool and post that result. I think I would suggest a partial drain to get your CH down below 400 but let's see how high in CH your fill water is first.

5. Almost forgot. I do not have a salt pool. Others will advise on that soon.
 
OK - The CH on our water that we fill the pool is 350.

Also the intellichlor says that our salt level is good, but I am not sure how to read the test strip? I am not sure is we need more salt or are we ok. The test strip made it to the third line from the bottom.

I think we need to do the shock, then retest and see what we need to do then? Let me know if I am on the right track, please. When your doing the shock process should we stay out of it?

To bad I did not find ya'll a few months back. Thanks for all the help.
 
I think we need to do the shock, then retest and see what we need to do then? Let me know if I am on the right track, please. When your doing the shock process should we stay out of it?
Click to expand...
That is absolutely the right track.

I will swim in much highler levels of FC (the FC in the machine when you wash clothes is 250ppm+) than shock but others here on the forum will not. The potential for a faded swimsuit I suppose exists but we have yet to have one reported here on the forum.
 
Yes, if that is in fact Black Algae, it's important to brush frequently, at least twice a day while the pool is at shock level. BA is very resistant to chlorine. It has a tough outer shell that protects the inside, you have to brush to break thru the top layer - or 'heads' - to allow the chlorine to destroy the underlayer.
 
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