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Thread: starting to green

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    starting to green

    I didn't know if I should post this here or under testing because I have questions on both.

    First my readings: FC-4; CC 0; TC 4; pH 7.8; T/A 130; CH 90; CYA 40; Temp 84 For 'Goals' I used Traditional/Bleach/Vinyl.

    water is cloudy but can still see bottom (looking a little green down there, though) When took a sample, I didn't notice green bubbles but when I poured unused sample back in to the pool I could see a green tinge.

    I'm thinking I should shock. Using the Pool Calculator it says shock level is 15. So I'm going to add 2 gal 3qts of 5.25% bleach as recommended. After shocking and with the cloudiness, should I flock and vacum to waste in a day or two?

    Questions on other test results..For pH level the PC says to add 2 cups Muratic acid to bring it down to 7.5 but for the T/A level it says to bring pH down to 7.0 or 7.2 then aerate to raise pH. The Note: under that says 'Adding baking soda will also raise your pH. I thought baking soda raised T/A and borax raised pH? I'm confused.

    I'm going to add the beach now and brush the pool. I'll wait ideas/thoughts/suggestions from the experts before I tackle the pH T/A (to me) conundrum.

    Thanks
    JimB
    on the Northcoast of the U.S.A.

    24ft AG-13,500 gal-Hayward S-166T high rate sand filter-pump is SplashPak Hp 1spl (whatever that means)-TF100 test kit

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: starting to green

    Unless you are having problems with constantly rising pH (adding MA so often that it is annoying), I suggest you leave the TA alone.

    Adjust your pH before you shock your pool.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Re: starting to green

    Just in the last couple weeks the pH has been rising slowly. So, if I understand you correctly, I should add the 2 cups of MA to bring the pH down to 7.5. I will, but I just added the bleach. Does the pH affect the disinfecting action of the bleach? I don't know how this will affect things, also. Today is supposed to be sunny with storms later tonight and tomorrow with good chances of rain thru Friday.

    Thanks for the quick reply.
    JimB
    on the Northcoast of the U.S.A.

    24ft AG-13,500 gal-Hayward S-166T high rate sand filter-pump is SplashPak Hp 1spl (whatever that means)-TF100 test kit

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: starting to green

    chlorine will work effectively at a PH of 7.2-7.4. However, it's difficult to adjust PH when the FC is above 10, because the high chlorine levels make the PH read false-high. So if you can wait to lower the PH when your chlorine drops down.

    (Your prior q....Baking soda does raise TA, but it also raises the PH a small amount)

    You don't need to floc and vac to waste...if the green water is algae, just keep brushing to circulate dead particles and the filter will clear it. Floc is a waste of money and doesn't always work, and can sometimes make things worse.

    Are you maintaining proper FC levels? How often do you run your pump? If you are doing things correctly your water shouldn't turn green....
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: starting to green

    I run the pump 24/7 except I turn it off the night before I plan to vacum. History of chlorine levels (all dates, this month): 15th-2; 18th-1.5; 19th-3.5; 23rd-2 (started using 6 as goal); 26th-.5 (left the solar cover off as temp was too high for my comfort-I like low 80's); 29th-4.
    JimB
    on the Northcoast of the U.S.A.

    24ft AG-13,500 gal-Hayward S-166T high rate sand filter-pump is SplashPak Hp 1spl (whatever that means)-TF100 test kit

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: starting to green

    Quote Originally Posted by frustratedpoolmom
    chlorine will work effectively at a PH of 7.2-7.4
    That is really only significant when there isn't any CYA. Once there is CYA in the water, the PH doesn't matter nearly as much. With CYA, any PH in the normal range, 7.2-7.8 will be fine and 7.0 to 8.0 is acceptable. Of course, if the PH is way out of range, that can seriously interfere with chlorine.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: starting to green

    Hi, Jim,

    Keep your chlorine levels higher after you complete the shock process and your algae problems will go away.

    With a CYA of 40, I would never let the pool go below 4ppm FC.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: starting to green

    Thanks, duraleigh. Actually, two days ago, I decided to raise my goal to 6. But, too little, too late, me thinks. Jason, thanks for your clarification.

    It may be worse than I thought. Here's my readings so far.
    1:00p FC 16.5 (this was an hour after initial shock)
    3:10p FC 14 added 1 qt (because it held the previous check I left the house figuring it could go two hours)
    5:10p FC 13 added 2 qts pH 7.8 added 1 qt MA
    7:20p FC 10.5 CC 1 added 1 gal 2 cups

    What's going on? I haven't had any CC since the middle of last summer. Is it because of all the chlorine I'm adding?
    I brushed at noon and backwashed noon and the last reading. The site glass didn't have much this last time. I've had the solar cover off all day--should I be leaving it on? I'm planning on covering it before bed. I'll take more readings at 8:30, 9:30 and 10:30 then about 8:00am to see how the night went.

    With the last reading, my POP is running out. (So is my R-871.) I have to run to the drug store for more bleach then see if I can get more 871 even if I have to pay for overnight postage.

    thoughts/ideas/moral support

    Thanks
    JimB
    on the Northcoast of the U.S.A.

    24ft AG-13,500 gal-Hayward S-166T high rate sand filter-pump is SplashPak Hp 1spl (whatever that means)-TF100 test kit

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    Re: starting to green

    What's going on?
    Algae (a lot more than is visible) has gotten into your pool.

    The high doses of chlorine are killing it but in so doing, the chlorine gets consumed. You must keep bring the chlorine back up to shock value as often as you can and hold it there until the chlorine stays stable.

    You will likely have to backwash your filter as well....watch for a psi rise.

    Once the chlorine has killed all the algae, your consumption will drop back to normal. You are finished shocking the pool when.....
    1. Your pool water is sparkling
    2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
    3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: starting to green

    Quote Originally Posted by JimB
    ..had the solar cover off all day--should I be leaving it on?
    Leave it off during the day when shocking so the sun can help burn off cc's.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: starting to green

    Keep the cover off during the day - this will help destroy CCs.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: starting to green

    I'm not going to say "victory" yet but...knock on wood...it's looking better. The rest of the tests from last night and this a.m. are:
    yesterday 8:40pm-FC 17; CC .5
    9:40pm-FC 17; CC 0; pH 7.5 (I decided not to test an hour later)
    8:10am (today) FC 16.5; CC 0: pH 7.5
    I haven't taken the cover off but it looks bluer. I still need to backwash and brush it down again.
    I tried to order more R-871 from Taylor but their website is not set up for on-line credit card payments. I found and ordered from poolcenter.com. A 2 oz. bottle is $10.84 with $8.40 shipping via UPS ground. (ouch) That's normal shipping prices. The web site said orders placed before noon go out same day with, usually, a one to two day delilvery. Hopefully I'll have it by Thursday, Friday latest.

    Plan of action: Test again around noon. I'd like to keep shock levels up for one more day. Brush a couple times a day and backwash two or three times a day. I think there's something wrong with my psi gage because it doesn't show any change. I put a new one on last year. I just go by the sight glass to see how dirty the filter was. The predicted rain looks less like happening (as I wrote that, a light rain started fallilng) it's only 65 right now at 9:43am (it's over) and overcast. I'll have to add water because of the frequent backwashing so I know I'll have to keep on the other tests as well.

    Thanks for all the help. Am I not thinking of something else I should be concerned with?

    While researching my current problem I came across this thread so-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-why-and-how-t4921.html. In a couple weeks (after my sons grad party) I may institute this.
    JimB
    on the Northcoast of the U.S.A.

    24ft AG-13,500 gal-Hayward S-166T high rate sand filter-pump is SplashPak Hp 1spl (whatever that means)-TF100 test kit

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: starting to green

    You can shock if you want to but.... your FC held and your CC is 0. "Done" in my book.

    It can still take a while for the filter to clear the water, so be patient....keep brushing to have it stirred up and the filter can clear it faster, run the filter 24/7 brushing often until it's clear.

    When the FC is below 10 retest your PH.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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