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Thread: Have to drain the pool and start over

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    Have to drain the pool and start over

    My 7yr old felt something sharp today, when the pool selltled the edges came off the tarpwe had under it. Theres a rock or something under it so before it pops the pool I'mdraining. I'm expecting it to take about 7 hours to drain through the hose. When we fill it again in the morning what should I throw in as soon as I fill should I just test the water then add whats needed I use BBB.
    Cheryl
    14X42 Intex Ultra Frame

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    Re: Have to drain the pool and start over

    Quote Originally Posted by my4boys2002
    ........ should I just test the water then add whats needed I use BBB.
    Test your water... bleach first, and start dissolving your CYA; then adjust pH, then TA.

    8000 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, 12" sand filter (don't have the specs on the pump), TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

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    Ohm_Boy's Avatar
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    pH and Chlorine are your biggies. You *could* test your fill water, and based upon the size of your pool, determine what it should need, but honestly, with mine, I filled it, tested it, and treated it based on my readings.

    Oh yeah, if you are draining the pool, you may want to consider that if you disconnect the return hose from the pool, you can pump a lot of water out WAAAY faster than what you can dribble through that little drain hole... just a thought.
    [center:1kpalu48]Helpful Links: Pool School | CYA/Chlorine Chart | Pool Calculator[/center:1kpalu48]

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    actually on a fresh fill you always always always wanna check for metals first. I don't know how many times I have seen people fill up a fresh pool and then go through a lug of bleach in it and stain the whole thing. So first things first check for metals. Second thing, adjust your ph and total alkalinity. Only then would it be recommended to add the bleach to the pool. You can thank me later.

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    (PS I thought about the metal-out after I posted before, but figured that since the OP had previously filled the pool, they knew... perhaps a bad assumption on my part)

    HIJACK in progress...

    Quote Originally Posted by poolio
    ......So first things first check for metals. Second thing, adjust your ph and total alkalinity. Only then would it be recommended to add the bleach to the pool...
    I have seen this before, and do not understand it... why would you adjust your pH and TA before you add chlorine? If it took a while to adjust, doesn't that give algae a change to take hold? You would basically have an unsanitized pool... If you get some chlorine in there, at least you can be swimming while you adjust the other values...

    8000 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, 12" sand filter (don't have the specs on the pump), TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

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    A guy at the pool store told me that since we came off of a severe drought last year, and have had excessive rain this year, refilling the lakes that supply our water quickly with runoff water, they are having to test the water every morning and the levels keep being different, so some days it's safe to fill pools, and some days not, the big problem being calcium, but I ended up with Iron in the pool water and stained EVERYTHING right off of the bat. I think my problem was a faucet, but I intend to be safe and not sorry from now on.

    Oh and I wanted to add that I have had great luck with putting bubble wrap under these pools, you can get it by the box, it's like 13 bucks a box, or furnature stores have TONS of it they throw away sometimes.
    Fort Wayne IG Vinyl 18 x 36 (22,000 G)
    3/4 hp Pentair Pump
    Sand Filter
    Polaris 280 w/ booster pump
    Chlorine
    No heater yet...solar cover
    Mount Airy, NC

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    Join Date
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    Bubblewrap? Why bubblewrap?
    Location: Atlanta, Georgia.
    Pool: 15,000 gallon 32'x18', 3'-6' deep in-ground gunite pool, Sta-Rite 3 125 GPM 2-filter cartrige, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite pump, solar heater, Goldline SWG, Jandy controls, opaque automatic CoverStar solar pool cover, 3 waterfalls (not from spa).
    Spa: 485 gallon in-ground square acrylic over fiberglass suspended over gunite Sunset brand spa, isolated system, natural gas heater, 2-speed (4hp/11hp) main pump, 3hp booster pump, chlorine sanitized.

    To my pool store owner, nothing is more important than my pool and my money.

    Richard's PoolEquations Spreadsheet

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    I used a tarp from the discount store, the first just wasn't big enough. The pool is filling again now. How do I check for metals? My hth strips don't have it on them
    Cheryl
    14X42 Intex Ultra Frame

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    Can you take a sample to a pool store?

    The Bubble Wrap just pads everything very well
    Fort Wayne IG Vinyl 18 x 36 (22,000 G)
    3/4 hp Pentair Pump
    Sand Filter
    Polaris 280 w/ booster pump
    Chlorine
    No heater yet...solar cover
    Mount Airy, NC

  10. Back To Top    #10
    I see what you are sayin mermaid. I guess if you have really out of whack tap water you would wanna get some chlorine in there. But I guess what I am saying is if you can do a quick ph adjustment like throw in 10 pounds of baking soda and then you are done that would be best to do first. Now if you have to aerate and acid and repeat 5 times I would get some chlorine in there. If you were to add some chlorine though before things were balanced I would not bring it to shock levels until the ph was in line.

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    Quote Originally Posted by poolio
    I see what you are sayin mermaid. I guess if you have really out of whack tap water you would wanna get some chlorine in there. But I guess what I am saying is if you can do a quick ph adjustment like throw in 10 pounds of baking soda and then you are done that would be best to do first. Now if you have to aerate and acid and repeat 5 times I would get some chlorine in there. If you were to add some chlorine though before things were balanced I would not bring it to shock levels until the ph was in line.
    I'm not following you either....adjust pH with Acid or borax....not baking soda.
    Secondly,why not shock? pH, Alk, even CYA are all easily adjustable and the results are fairly immediate. An unsanitized pool would be my primary concern.....I'd do like the mermaid....get the Cl in there fast. I'm not clear why shock level would not be safe.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Would you want to adjust PH first or shock first? I'm thinking PH first because if fill water is above 8, Chlorine won't be as effective.
    Location: Atlanta, Georgia.
    Pool: 15,000 gallon 32'x18', 3'-6' deep in-ground gunite pool, Sta-Rite 3 125 GPM 2-filter cartrige, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite pump, solar heater, Goldline SWG, Jandy controls, opaque automatic CoverStar solar pool cover, 3 waterfalls (not from spa).
    Spa: 485 gallon in-ground square acrylic over fiberglass suspended over gunite Sunset brand spa, isolated system, natural gas heater, 2-speed (4hp/11hp) main pump, 3hp booster pump, chlorine sanitized.

    To my pool store owner, nothing is more important than my pool and my money.

    Richard's PoolEquations Spreadsheet

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    Quote Originally Posted by itabb
    Would you want to adjust PH first or shock first? I'm thinking PH first because if fill water is above 8, Chlorine won't be as effective.
    My priority, especially this time of year, would be to get sanitizer in a pool.

    Iron in the water, if you fill from a well, is a possibility but not a given. Testing for it first seems pretty irrelevant to me because you can't get it out (easily) and dealing with it later in a sanitized pool is much less problematic than having to fight algae (shocking) and having the iron precipitate because of the high Cl.

    pH of 8+ in fill water I'm sure exists but I can't recall any posts. It is certainly not a given. Nevertheless, it can be brought down so quickly your pool can be @ 7.2 in a matter of hours.

    Algae is a given in every pool. The sooner you address that issue, the better start you have on a TFP.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    You can usually adjust the PH and add chlorine at the same time, so I don't see any conflict. The only exception is that when shocking the chlorine level is likely to be high enough to prevent acurate PH readings.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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