Replacing a Polaris Booster Pump

xene97

0
LifeTime Supporter
I just took apart my booster pump to see what was causing it to leak. To my surprise it must've been leaking quite a bit longer than I noticed since it's all nice and rusted.

So instead of trying to fix it, I'm going to replace it.

How hard is this to do yourself? Do you just plug it in or is there alot more involved? I downloaded the installation instructions but it really doesn't tell me what's involved.
 
I had to replace mine last year. The original from Polaris had a housing around the shaft area where the motor connected. there was an open area on the sides. The pump seal started leaking and filled up this area. Some of the water found its way into the motor. I drilled a drain hole in the bottom of the replacement. This time if the seal leaks I will just lose a little water and maybe not the pump motor.
On your question, there are 2 water connections and the electrical connection. Mine was 230 volt, and I had to rewire it into the subpanel I installed at equipment pad. If you are not comfortable with electricity, hire an electrician for this part. I removed the quick fittings for the hose used for the original pump and put them in the replacement. The replacement was not a Polaris, but a replacement made by Advantage Manufacturing in Tustin, Ca. I ordered it online. It must have been dropped shipped from the Manufacturer, because that is the only address on the box.
 
I replaced mine about a year ago too when my pump started squealing and petered out and it was easy. Just be absolutely sure the power is off at the breaker before you start. I ordered mine through eBay and got a Polaris/Halcyon branded pump (supposedly quieter) for about $225+ shipping.

I noted the wiring connections when I removed the old pump and used the same cabling for the new pump, I recall there were two hot wires and a neutral which were connected in the back panel in the pump motor. There was also a ground strap, I polished the copper and reconnected it to the pump and the clamp on the gas line. The wet end of my setup had 3/4" threaded fittings and heavy duty rubber hoses. I applied teflon tape and reconnected using the same fittings. It has worked flawlessly for over a year now.

Good luck

Tom
15K Inground Plaster 2HP pump
Raypak RP2100 335A Heater
Polaris 380 with 3/4HP booster
Reliance Mechanical Timers (antiques!)

Pool.jpg
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.