Late startup

hillerji

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 23, 2009
27
Hi all,
New member, 1st time poster.
I am opening very late but in reality haven't missed much with the NE doom and gloom and winter freeze up repairs now done.

26x32 IG concrete w/ vinyl liner. I had to repair my main drain valve and thus had to drop out a lot of water. I do have a free supply of brook water which I pumped and have topped off, probably about 4-5k galllons.

Now, I have the system running, new DE on the filter and dropped my 1st 1.5 gallons of bleach in via pouring in front of deep return. What next?

Should I have much more bleach in or go in some more methodical method. I am going to read and absorb all the great info here but wanted to get a reality check for the initial start up.

Thanks for any and all suggestions as this really is a great looking info source.
 
Next step is to get your water tested if you don't have a test kit yourself, and post the results so we can determine what needs to be done to bring your water into balance. Keep adding a small jug of bleach each night until then.

If you don't have a good test kit, then try to find a pool store that will test your water for free. Just be sure to politely decline to purchase any chemicals they say you need.

We do advocate learning how to test your own water using a good test kit, as we trust our testing much more than the pool store's. It will be the best investment you'll make for your pool. The two kits we recommend are the TF100 sold by one of our forum members, and the Taylor K-2006, which can sometimes be found in a pool store, but most times needs to be ordered online as well. The HTH 6-way test kit from Walmart can be used in the interim, but a kit with the FAS-DPD chlorine test is the best method for measuring your free chlorine, especially if you ever have to shock your pool.

So, first things first, go get your water tested, and post the results. Second, Keep adding some bleach in the evenings until you have a way to measure your Free Chlorine. Third, get a test kit so you can learn to do your own testing and take control of your pool! :goodjob:
 
Mike,

Thanks. I have ordered the TF 100 and should have it tomorrow. So far I've gotten all the smuck and vegetation out of the pool and have added ~ 5.6 gal of bleach. I'm really hoping to get it 'right' and have it sparkle.

Thanks again,
 
Ok Folks,

Got my brand new test kit and on advice immediately tried to test my CYA.

I followed the instructions and basically I didn't get any kind of reading. I titrated the whole makeup into the view tube and the black dot never disappeared. Did I do something wrong or is that an indicator that my water is way out of whack.

We have had a lot of rain since opening the pool on Saturday. That being said it is clear but seems to have a slight greenish tinge to it.

I haven't been able to run any other tests but made time for the CYA as it was indicated to be a priority. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

JH
 
It simply means your CYA is below 20. So you need to add it, targeting 30 for now - use the Pool Calc to determine how much that is. Use the "sock method" for adding the CYA.

How's the PH/TA?

Since it's still green, are you keeping up with the bleach additions? Use a shock level of 12 until the CYA gets added. :goodjob:
 
Dear Mom,

Thanks for your advice. I took some more readings this a.m.. First last night I added 1.42 gal bleach with pump circulating which it has been 24/7. The water pretty much clouded up right away? OK so this a.m.
FC 2.5
TC 5+
ph < 6.8
and the previous CYA <20

You recommended adjusting the CYA now that I have to cave in to a pool store for right? No home remedy? The other constraint on me is that I'm going to have to leave it for 6 days and I don't have someone to really watch it day by day. Any thoughts on what I can do to hold me over for the week with minimal backup? Thank you very much. 3 days and counting.
The water is still hazy this a.m. I should add. It was basically clear before the bleach addition but not crystal clear.

Jon
 
Okay, that's gotta be fixed today.

You need Baking Soda and Borax:

You need to raise the TA with Baking Soda first, target 100 and use the Pool Calc to determine how much that is.

Add it, and then let it circulate for an hour, and retest the PH. Then use Borax to then raise up the PH if it's below 7.8.

While you are gone, you can use trichlor tablets in a floater. Hopefully you have a timer for your pump?

You can use the tablets for chlorine and they will also boost your CYA level. The problem is they are acidic and will lower your PH/TA, that's why you need to fix that now.
 
hillerji said:
FC 2.5
TC 5+

Just noticed this....

Is this the FAS-DPD results? Are you saying you have a CC of 2.5?
FC + CC = TC

If your CC is higher than .5 you need to keep shocking your pool. If your FC didn't hold overnight (it doesn't sound like it did) you need to shock again. Get some more bleach in there.

Keep in mind high FC levels (anything over 10) will make the PH read a false-high. So adjust the PH/TA this morning, before you resume shocking.
 

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Mom/Jason,

I just got home and added some Arm n Hammer baking soda. I broadcast 24# into the pool. I'm sorry I wasn't following the acronyms FAS/DPD. In answer to your ? I am leaving Sun. a.m. but also it's not that I couldn't have someone add some liquid bleach daily if I know the prescribed amount so that they don't have to do any major computations.

From what you said earlier I should retest TA after it has had a chance to mix?

Tx.

JH
 
fas/dpd is the chlorine test in the tf100 that turns red when you add a scoop of dpd powder to a 10ml water sample...

Chlorine Drop test - If you need to a) measure Chlorine levels accurately or b) higher than 5ppm or c) test for Combined Chloramines…perform the Chlorine Drop Test. (FAS/DPD)
1. Rinse and fill the “Chlorine only” graduated cylinder to the 10mL mark
2. Add ONE heaping scoop of the R-870 powder and swirl to mix. (It may not all dissolve….don’t worry) The solution will turn pink.
3. Next, carefully add R-871 solution one drop at a time. Count each drop and swirl until the solution turns back to clear. Multiply the number of drops you added times .5 (14 drops X .5 = 7ppm)
4. Record your results as FC (free chlorine)
5. To test for Combined Chloramines, add 5 drops of R-0003 to the solution and swirl. If it remains clear, you have no CC’s. If it returns back to pink, add R-0871 as before, counting and swirling between each drop. Once the solution returns clear, multiply the added drops times .5 again…..this will be your CC reading. Record it. The total of FC and CC should be recorded as TC (total chlorine)
 
Yes, please clarify WHICH chlorine test you performed. If you have a CC reading higher than .5 you need to shock the pool. IF the FC hasn't held overnight, meaning if you lost more than 1ppm overnight, you need to shock.

Retest the TA and PH, and if the PH is below 7.4 you need to raise it to 7.6 with Borax. If you are going to use the tablets, you should have your PH at 7.8 and your TA at 100-120 before you leave. Add more baking soda if necessary.

If the FC is holding, you can safely assume that your pool will lose between 2-4 ppm per day. If your pool is about 22,000 gallons, you can have someone add around one to two small jugs of 6% per day. (96oz size).
 
You all are very patient, thank you.

Ok, I did do the drop test this a.m. but didn't go all the way through so nix that.

Now, just checked
pH ~7.5
Cl -clear as straw, doesn't register
TA-120

So the 24# of Baking soda brought the TA up so am I looking at more bleaching now that the TA is up there?

Gracias,

Jon
 

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