Pool pump problems

May 17, 2015
73
Herndon/va
I replaced pentair challenger pool pump with identical pump. Old pump also had some leaks in lines. Installed new pump with existing pipes and it was running somewhat smoothly but would lose its prime after a bit which I assume was due to the leaks. Pump also changed sound but continued to run just had more of a screech to it rather than the quiet operation when it started. So I tear out all of the old patchwork pipes from previous homeowner and build out new, which still had a small leak at old valve. Long story short I got a new valve and have replumbed. Turn on pump and it pops and now only buzzes. It sounds like maybe the capacitor has failed. My question is what would cause this to fail for such a new pump? Is it possible I wired it incorrectly? Everything I read said it did not matter how it was wired and I connected same wires to same terminals in old pump. That plus it was running smoothly when I first switched it out. Luckily if it is just the capacitor then I have the old one from previous pump and can swap them out, just want to make sure I do not blow this one as well. Thanks in advance for the advice.
 
Update. I bought a new capacitor for new pump and the same humming. I switched out the new pump and put back in the old pump. Has been running for 1 day. It lost its prime so I turned off the pump, Cut pump back on and I get same humming noise on old pump too. I am so frustrated and lost now. Not sure where to check from here. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
If water in basket is hot, then that means you are sucking air from somewhere. When they run dry and get real hot, usually capacitors fail. Make sure water level is good in pool and if it is, then you'll have to isolate air leak..could be from replumbing you did or pump lid itself or underground(hopefully not).
 
Anyone else have any suggestions before I call in the pool service? I also checked the multimeter and I am getting 120 volts on each leg and 240 total. Both pumps just make the humming noise and both impellers are clear and can be manually spun. Both are also the pentair challenger pumps which claims to have no governor or switch. If the overload kicked in and stayed on would that cause it? I checked all of the plumping again since I put in the unions and everything appears to be correct. Also if the motors have just gone bad, has anyone had any luck with getting them rebuilt and if so what am I looking at for costs? I can buy a new motor for $190, but would like to determine why they both went out before dropping more coin. Thanks.
 

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It is pretty cheap to have the motor rebuilt, the last one I had done was less than $100. Search for electric motor repair, there should be some shops around you. They might have an idea to why a brand new motor would die so quickly too.
 
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