Stuck with Slamming Process

[backyardchill]

First time slamming. Opened pool up couple weeks ago and have a green swamp. It was a really warm late fall, winter and early spring in VA this year. Until last Thursday when my TF-100 test kit arrived, I was shocking according to pool store advise. My PH was 8.2. They said to add 7 pints of Muratic acid; which seemed like a lot so I added 3 pints. According to them my CYA was 5, so I added 2 lbs stabilizer. Since my test kit arrived, I have been shocking to 10 -12 FC. Color changed to turquoise color but not clear. I have used 20 gallon of chlorine so far. My CC seems stuck at 2 ppm. I read about chlorine lock, so I tested the ammonia with my aquarium test kit. It was through the roof at 8ppm. After lots of chlorine I finally have the ammonia down to <.25ppm. I have been testing the water after chlorine additions every couple of hours. Should I be testing it more frequent. My latest test results tonight after work are FC 2, CC 2, PH 6.6 (it went way down from 7.2 during SLAM), ammonia < .25 ppm. Seems like I have been stuck at CC of 2 for a day or two. Is the PH level wrong during slamming. The CYA was 25 when I started. Is that level non measurable during slamming? I also added Super Algacide (6 oz) during this process.



21' round AGP 11,700 gallons

 

[Numb]

I think you really want that CYA to closer to the 30-40 range for a proper SLAM. Assuming a proper PH level (7.2-7.5) pre-SLAM, you really can't test and get accurate results on PH while at SLAM levels (or above FC 10ppm) for FC which should be 12(30)-16(40). The CC based on my understanding suggests simply that you still have something growing in that pool and you haven't been in SLAM long enough to rectify that yet. A higher CYA will help your FC hold at least a little better.

Personally, I would add a little CYA and then maintain your SLAM levels. The more frequently you test and add to the FC to maintain it the faster you'll see results, but the need to check every few hours should alleviate relatively quickly. The SLAM I finished a month or so ago took all in all about 2 weeks. Its a process, you have to follow the directions to the letter, but it works.

As for the Super Algecide...I wouldn't add anything other than what the SLAM calls for during this process.

 

[Teald024]

Wow, it sounds like you are all over the place and taking general stabs at trying to get things cleared up.

It's a good think you found the ammonia issue. If you can test at 2ppm a few hours after dosing, then it looks like you have just about resolved the ammonia issue. Your CC is still high though. To be certain, dose FC to 10ppm, then 15 minutes later retest and check FC and CC. If FC isn't holding, repeat the dose to 10 FC, wait 15 mins and retest. If you can hold most FC and have little CC then the ammonia is gone and you can proceed with the SLAM.

You can't get an accurate pH result if your FC is above 10ppm. Wait until it drops below 10, adjust to 7.2 in preparation for the SLAM, then forget about it for the remainder of the SLAM process.
The CYA level can be measured, but shouldn't change much during the SLAM and most don't bother checking it once they start. Water replacement can reduce CYA, but it is probably the ammonia conversion that was messing with the CYA. Certain bacteria can convert the CYA to ammonia.

Pleaseread up on the SLAM procedures. During the first day or two, you should try to test and dose to shock level as many times as practical. 4 or 5 a day if at all possible. Then as the FC starts holding better, you can test & dose a bit less often.

Adding algaecide at this point is to little, to late. You don't need anything besides chlorine to kill all those nasty green monsters.

 

[Swampwoman]

Hi Backyard. First, to get the rest of your slam in order, do the following:
If you're still reading ammonia, dose up to your slam level and then test FC 10 min. later. Keep dosing to your slam level until the FC is holding better - The quick additions should eradicate the last bit...but don't add any more cya, at least until the ammonia is clear. It shouldn't take you long, eg the equivalent of 25 ppm through a few quick additions.

Test your cya once before beginning your normal slam...the conversion that causes ammonia may have converted some. Add a little bit to get to 30.

Then using the [fc/cya][/FC/cya] as your guide and following SLAM Process protocol, dose frequently enough to NEVER let it drop below the slam level. Every minute you're below the slam level, you are not actually slamming, and will have the experience of "one step forward, one step back."

Don't nuke your pool, but dosing to a few point above slam level so that the next time you're able to check its not lower than slam will speed things up considerably.

Do remember to be filtering 24/7, and bear in mind that the filtering will take time to clear the dead algae. In a proper slam with this criteria met, you should see daily visual improvement of color and clarity. If you don't, one of the parameters isn't being met...

If you have the slam dialed in for a few days and don't see clearing of cloudiness, check your filters operation and consider a deep clean/rinse.

Cheers to clear!

 

[backyardchill]

I test this morning at 8am FC 1.50 CC 2.00 Per Pool Math, I added 173 oz of 8.25% bleach
Pouring down rain for two days now........ just tested a few minutes ago (near 12 hours later) and my FC is 8.50 but my CC is still 2.0. My PH is still at 6.6, really really low. Is that level dangerous. I had added about 4 pounds of Mule Team over the last week to increase it...seems stuck. Is that measurement bogus during SLAM. Glad to see the FC starting to hold. The water is blue but still very very murky. Should I put my extra freshly cleaned filter in now: I soaked it overnight in dishwasher detergent and sprayed down for at least 20-30 minutes...very clean. My normal pressure on low speed is 2 and it is around 3 now.

Did the pool store recommendations mess up my PH. On 5/8/17 it read 8.2. They told me to use 7 pints of Muriatic acid. I thought that was too much and I only added 3-4. Then my PH went way down over two or three days after I added. They also said my copper was .4 which was high. This probably was because I used a algaecide from a closing kit which probably had copper. Dummy me also added the super algaecide during the SLAM which I believe is copper based also. What algaecide does pool forum recommend? A polyquat? The FC was 1.09 TC 15.79 and CC was 14.7 the day of their test.

I didn't realize you should test within 10-15 minutes during SLAM. I thought I read somewhere that you had to wait at least an hour. That is why so much chlorine was eaten up because I waited too long to test again?

 

[backyardchill]

whoops, duplicate! Sorry

 

[Swampwoman]

You reported having ammonia. THAT'S why I asked you to add to slam level, test in 10 min., add, read again, add, read again etc. That's how you quickly break down ammonia, which you may need to do in order to ACTUALLY SLAM Process.

Because you're not ACTUALLY slamming until you're MAINTAINING your slam level. So today, for example, any time you were at 8, you were not actually slamming, because your slam level per [fc/cya][/FC/cya] needs to be higher.

You will get unstuck once you've cleared the ammonia (and it sounds like you're almost there) AND you're able to maintain your SaM level.

 

[backyardchill]

Thanks for all your help!! . This morning my overnight levels were FC 6 and CC 1.50; I added 69 oz of 8.25% to bring back to 10-FC, so it looks like the chlorine is holding better. Tonight after I get off from work I will try to get rid the remainder of the ammonia (<.25ppm) with the 10 minute additions. Let me be sure I am clear.... if my FC is below 10, I can and should adjust PH to 7.2, add some CYA to get to 30ppm and then start to SLAM. How much time will it take for the PH and CYA to adjust. After I begin SLAM is 30 minutes too often to test the FC or should I wait at least 1 hour? Should I wait until FC is holding overnight to but in my clean filter?

 

[Swampwoman]

First, break down the ammonia before adding more cya.

Yes, adjust ph whn FC is below 10.

Then add CYA and start slam...using the value of CYA you're adding -- so if you add 30 ppm and currently have none, your slam level is 12 (per [fc/cya][/FC/cya]

Now you can test about 20 min. After you've added to make sure you got a bit above your slam level. If ÒÚ can for the first bit, it will help to check every few hours and dose up if needed. As the chlorine starts sanitizing everything, you will be able to go a bit longer between tests and doses.

 

[backyardchill]

Was able to get all ammonia gone! Thank goodness! Got PH to 7.4 (aimed for 7.2) and CYA to 30 last night. Kept dosing until midnight. At 7:30am the FC was 10.50 (starting to hold better) and CC is still 1.50. Cant seem to break the CC below 1.50. Tonight after work I am planning on babysitting the pool and being able to add every hour if necessary. Pool color is blue but still very cloudy. I can barely start to see the brush on the bottom. (54" deep). Planning on spraying off my filter good tonight... will see if that clears things up. Again, thanks for all your help.

 

[stodds]

A little too soon to think the CCs should have dropped. Once you get on top of the algae, you'll see it. But, you just got rid of the ammonia. Now that you are tackling the organics in your pool, having CCs isn't a surprise. Keep the FC up, and the CCs will drop. Don't forget, you're not done until you pass the three tests:

• CC is 0.5 or lower;
• You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
• And the water is clear.

 

[backyardchill]

Am I being over anxious? All ammonia is gone. Since Friday I have tested 11 times and added chlorine anywhere from 17 to 78 oz (mornings). This morning FC held from 14 at 11:30pm to 10.50 this morning. No change in color or clarity. Can't get CC to drop below 1.5. I did test for phosphates with my aquarium test kit and they are really high. My be residual from cartridge cleaning with automatic dish detergent. Is it too early for levels to change. Should I try to test Mr CYA again and be sure it is at 30; been using 14 as my shock level thinking maybe my CYA was a little higher than my last test.

 

[Swampwoman]

Don't worry about cc now if your test strips show ammonia's gone. Just keep hitting I are and don't let te FC drop below slam level at any Tim. That might mean bumping I up a few ppm when you dose so tat its still at 14 next time you test and OS. That will expedite the Sam

 

[OHcabanaboy]

Assuming you're running the pump/filter 24/7 right? Also, I haven't totally read through all the comments here but have you also brushed the walls and floor well during this process? A goal of 10 seems a bit low to me for a slam. I haven't looked at the slam chart but that number just appears low. I would think for a heavy algae you'd want to be in the 13-15 range.

 

[backyardchill]

I have been running my pump 24/7 since May 1st when i uncovered. I have been using 14 as my shock goal level. I have been brushing at least once a day. I have not vacuumed for several days. Should I vacuum more? My CYA was 30 the last time I tested, but I have been using CYA of 35 shock level. I have been testing 6 to 8 times a day. ..getting up early in the mornings and staying up late at night to test. My phosphates are really high. Should that be a concern? In my aquarium if the phosphates are high it feeds the algae. Help!!

 

[pabeader]

Just for grins, go ahead and post a pic or two. If you've got a ladder in the pool, a pic facing down it and into the water would be great. If not, a pic of the pole down in the water would work.

 

[OHcabanaboy]

I have never tested for phosphates. The consensus seems to indicate that pool stores do so to sell you a chemical... which then leads to another chemical... which, well, you get it. Algae does feed on phosphates but kill the algae and you have no worries. You might consider going up to mustard algae levels. Are you changing filters or cleaning your filter? If you aren't circulating the way you should be, you could slow the process.
There's a link in here for mustard algae that brings you to the shock levels
Pool School - Mustard Algae
Looks to me like in that chart with your CYA at 30 you should shock at around 18. I'd bring it up into the 20 range and hold it there. I feel your pain! I went through something like this after having someone "watch" my pool while I was vacationing. I came back to a wonderful green pool with algae all over the walls. Fought it for a few days then decided to up my game and increase shock levels. Two days later, dead algae and a happy pool owner again.

 

[backyardchill]

Seemed to be making no ground so today I went up to a shock level of 16. The CC has come down to 1.0.. I know this sounds stupid but how do I attach a picture to this forum?

 

[backyardchill]

The chart says for a CYA of 30 use 12. I ave been using 16 today.?

- - - Updated - - -

This has been a nightmare. 30 gallons of bleach later my pool is still not clear. Can you put too much bleach in the pool?

 

[pabeader]

There is a little button right above the typing window that looks like a square with a tree in it. That's the picture button.