I learned a lot on this forum years ago - so much so I haven't been here in years & had to create a new account (could not figure out the old one). Pool has been crystal clear since I converted from the evil Baquacil years ago and (mostly) use the BBB method. But, I now have an issue I haven't encountered before.
I recently opened up our pool. I have a clear pool - but the water is tinted green. From reading around, I fear that it is from an algecide. I could kick myself. I never use algecide except when I first open the pool. But I bought the wrong kind - I mistakenly bought one with copper. Instead of returning, I used it - but just a small amount (2-4 oz) - figuring I'd never use it again all season & that it would not make a difference. I'm afraid that is my problem but want to check here.
Using a taylor test kit, my readings are as follows:
FC: 1.6
CC: .2
PH: 7.2
CYA: less than 30 - that's the lowest reading on the vial but I have to fill it up past that to get the black dot to disappear.
I generally don't test for CH b/c I have a vinyl pool. I generally am bad and don't test TA either. If that's necessary I'll re-test. If it is metals, is my only option to replace my water?
I use liquid chlorine 12.5% for sanitizer/shock. I've been adding a gallon daily. Over the weekend, the pool was actually clear. We finished vacuuming, skimming, etc. to get the rest of the leaves out. It looked great and when I looked out an hour later it was this light green color! I assumed perhaps I had let the chlorine get too low so shocked it with two gallons of the liquid chlorine. tested the next day & readings were similar to the above. I added another gallon yesterday and today. My husband thinks the vacuuming changed the color! LOL!
I know the PH is on the low side & CYA is too - but would that make it a green tint? I've added baking soda to raise the ph.
And, how do I test for metals to see if that's the culprit? DO I need to get a pool store to test for that? Ugh.
Thanks in advance.
I recently opened up our pool. I have a clear pool - but the water is tinted green. From reading around, I fear that it is from an algecide. I could kick myself. I never use algecide except when I first open the pool. But I bought the wrong kind - I mistakenly bought one with copper. Instead of returning, I used it - but just a small amount (2-4 oz) - figuring I'd never use it again all season & that it would not make a difference. I'm afraid that is my problem but want to check here.
Using a taylor test kit, my readings are as follows:
FC: 1.6
CC: .2
PH: 7.2
CYA: less than 30 - that's the lowest reading on the vial but I have to fill it up past that to get the black dot to disappear.
I generally don't test for CH b/c I have a vinyl pool. I generally am bad and don't test TA either. If that's necessary I'll re-test. If it is metals, is my only option to replace my water?
I use liquid chlorine 12.5% for sanitizer/shock. I've been adding a gallon daily. Over the weekend, the pool was actually clear. We finished vacuuming, skimming, etc. to get the rest of the leaves out. It looked great and when I looked out an hour later it was this light green color! I assumed perhaps I had let the chlorine get too low so shocked it with two gallons of the liquid chlorine. tested the next day & readings were similar to the above. I added another gallon yesterday and today. My husband thinks the vacuuming changed the color! LOL!
I know the PH is on the low side & CYA is too - but would that make it a green tint? I've added baking soda to raise the ph.
And, how do I test for metals to see if that's the culprit? DO I need to get a pool store to test for that? Ugh.
Thanks in advance.
The green is from one of two things .... algae and/or metal (iron/copper). It's a reaction between the chlorine (bleach) and the metals (iron/copper) in the water. The reaction is based on the levels of each. It would seem odd that only 2-4 ounces would effect an 11K pool like that, but perhaps there's more to the chemistry. Regardless, when a pool is confirmed to have iron/copper in it, the only way to remove it is water exchange. If the water is treated as-is, then the algae must be killed first before treating the iron/copper. So you have two choices really:
Okay, you can do option 1 for now and see how the water transitions once everything is done. Your pH of 7.2 is perfect, so simply add enough stabilizer to ensure you have a CYA of 30, then increase your FC to "12". Once you increase that FC, you'll know fairly quickly if the metal content is high. The color may change, become more intense, etc. If the color remains constant that may be good. You might even try putting some absorbent material in the skimmer (baffling, towels, etc) and you might catch some metal.
A few extra touches and you're all ready for the weekend. 